My carPC project: ongoing thread

[John Monnin]

Anyone use a 8" touchscreen? It looks like it would fit
Everyone seems to use the lilliput 7" screens why is this? cost? Quality?

[Wombat]

Originally Posted by John Monnin

Anyone use a 8" touchscreen? It looks like it would fit
Everyone seems to use the lilliput 7" screens why is this? cost? Quality?

BlackStealth has an 8" screen in his, but I think he had to relocate the buttons in order for it to fit. Lilliput screens are most commonly used because of their availability and price. Upon taking the screen casing apart, I found that the touchscreen was made by Hitachi.

[John Monnin]

For the steering wheel controls why don't you use a cheap IR reciever with the PAC SWI-X? I read this thread on MPScar.com and it soundled like it would work. For some reason I thought that this has already been done on a 3S.

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/faq-...your-pc-4.html

Cheap IR reciever
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=009

Thanks for answering all my newb questions

[Wombat]

Originally Posted by John Monnin

For the steering wheel controls why don't you use a lilliput IR reciever with the PAC SWI-X? I read this thread on MPScar.com and it soundled like it would work, I am not so good with electronics and I was hoping that this would work.

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/faq-...your-pc-4.html

Yea, that will work and has been done on some cars, but I'm trying to do something innovative and new with a PIC microcontroller. Plus, if I can get it to work, it will provide a lot more flexibility with other switches and controls in the car.

[BlackStealth]

John Monnin: I'm using the PAC SWI-X and a USB infrared receiver + girder software + girder device drivers to get the job done. You can't use just any infrared receiver, as it needs to be compatible with girder. Girder takes those infrared signals and converts them into useful commands. I have a spare SERIAL infrared receiver for $15 shipped that I used on my previous carpc setup which is compatible with girder.

Wombat: I didn't see any ground loop isolators in your list, you may need those to get rid of alternator noise as this frequently becomes a problem with carpc setups.

[Wombat]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Wombat: I didn't see any ground loop isolators in your list, you may need those to get rid of alternator noise as this frequently becomes a problem with carpc setups.

Thanks for the heads up, ordered two off of e-bay just now. I'll eventually need a third when I get an external USB sound card and hook up my rear speakers. I'll update my parts list.

[nduda78]

Here is mine, same setup, did it last year. These are older pics, I now have DVD drive and mounted a couple USB ports up in the cockpit...etc

I just wish i had the time/skills to make a good frame for the touchscreen. I did all the audio myself, run 2 7-port USB hubs powering all kinds of devices throughout the car. EVDO for full-time internet

[Wombat]

Thanks for sharing. Are you using the audio from the motherboard or do you have an external USB sound card? How did you connect the amp to the carPC?

[nduda78]

Originally Posted by Wombat

Thanks for sharing. Are you using the audio from the motherboard or do you have an external USB sound card? How did you connect the amp to the carPC?

I use the SB External-24bit, blows onboard away. If you use external though, dont plug the soundcard into a usb hub, rather plug it right into the mobo.

I have 2 amps, one for the 2 12" dual core subs, and the other for all the other interior audio. I control the power on of both amps using the M2-ATX power remote. The amps are then connected via regular red/white RCA cables to the external soundcard (i use a couple spliters) , i can take a closer pick for you.

I ran all the proper gauge wire based on the amps/power requirements for each device. I use a power distribution block (which you can see in the picture moutned to the side of the sub box). The dist block goes all the way to battery (Optima).

I have zero static, alternator sound. I run all my devices off the USB hubs, buried under the sub box....all my wires are buried under it (GPS, Sirius, bluetooth, cameras...etc)

The SB External-24 bit has some killer configuration options in its software that allow fine tuning of the audio (like bass booster and such). I totally recommend it.

The way I have the PC and one of the amps mounted I can fold my seats up perfectly.

[Wombat]

Originally Posted by nduda78

I use the SB External-24bit, blows onboard away. If you use external though, dont plug the soundcard into a usb hub, rather plug it right into the mobo.

I have 2 amps, one for the 2 12" dual core subs, and the other for all the other interior audio. I control the power on of both amps using the M2-ATX power remote. The amps are then connected via regular red/white RCA cables to the external soundcard (i use a couple spliters) , i can take a closer pick for you.

I ran all the proper gauge wire based on the amps/power requirements for each device. I use a power distribution block (which you can see in the picture moutned to the side of the sub box). The dist block goes all the way to battery (Optima).

I have zero static, alternator sound. I run all my devices off the USB hubs, buried under the sub box....all my wires are buried under it (GPS, Sirius, bluetooth, cameras...etc)

The SB External-24 bit has some killer configuration options in its software that allow fine tuning of the audio (like bass booster and such). I totally recommend it.

The way I have the PC and one of the amps mounted I can fold my seats up perfectly.

Closer pictures would be awesome! I was thinking of going with the SB 24-bit as well, but wanted to see what the mobo soundcard could do in the meantime.

I purchased some ground loop isolators to hopefully get rid of all static (I had a ton of noise with my head unit). I also bought a power distribution block to power all of my equipment. I have two 4 gauge power wires coming directly from my optima battery so I should have more than enough juice to power it all. I just worry about my alternator when my lights are on, my heater is cranked and I'm sitting idle at a stoplight

I also plan on using the M2-ATX to send the remote power signal to my amplifiers, but I was reading somewhere that you need to connect a relay in between. Did you have to do this?