Just reading about the fusible link for the alternator and several thoughts started to come into my mind....
1. If I just installed a 200A alternator shouldn't I change the fusible link to be 200a?
2. Since the fusible link has not blown, does this mean I am not exceeding the 120a draw (or bass hits don't count since they are not constant). Maybe if I run a bass test tone at full volume, I'll burn out the fusible link? My amperage gauge for my stereo on full volume w/bass hits draws between 50-90amps.
3. What are folks using to re-run a power wire from the alternator to the battery. If you use 0-4 gauge wire, are you bypassing the fusible link completely and running a seperate high amp fuse (like stereo equipment fuses?).
Thanks everyone!
4.
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1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder SL
**Body** Chromalusion True Blasberry Paint, Shaved Door Handles with Electronic Doors, Custom Body Panels, 19" Lowenhart BR5 3-Piece Wheels, 245/35-ZR19 Yokohama AVS Sport, Eibach Pro-Spring Lowering Kit, 3SX Rear Adjustable Control Arms, PIAA 1100X DiChrotic Driving Lights **Engine** K&N FIPK Filter, DN Performance Intake Pipe, 3SX Polished Strut Bar, Polished Engine Plenum, Valve Cover, Fuse Covers **Audio** 200amp Hight Output Alternator w/Overdrive Pulley, Eclipse DVD 7" LCD Touchscreen, xBox 360, Eclipse Titanium 6 1/2 Components, Eclipse 3 x 12" Aluminum Subs, Eclipse Amplifiers Total 3000W@2ohm, Dynamat from Head to Toe, Cotton for my Ears. **Other Stuff** Short Chrome ATX w/Overdrive Shifter, Diamond Plate Floormats, Viper Remote Top/Trunk/Door Controller, Convertible Proximity Alarm.
Re: High Output Alternator 200A - Fusible Link 120A?
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveceleste
1. If I just installed a 200A alternator shouldn't I change the fusible link to be 200a?
Yea, but I think most manufacturers will recommend replacing the fusible link with an inline fuse, like your #3 asks as well.
Regardless you'll want to replace all wiring which is suffering from too much Vdrop due to high current, Included is the batt. to alt, batt to chassis, alt to chassis, batt to amp(s), amp(s) to chassis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveceleste
2. Since the fusible link has not blown, does this mean I am not exceeding the 120a draw (or bass hits don't count since they are not constant). Maybe if I run a bass test tone at full volume, I'll burn out the fusible link? My amperage gauge for my stereo on full volume w/bass hits draws between 50-90amps.
It means you're not exceeding the link's limits at X-current at Y-length of time
Once you do you'll burn out that link.
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Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.
Re: High Output Alternator 200A - Fusible Link 120A?
Thanks for the information, that was exactly what I'm looking for. I already have a couple of 120a fuses under the hood for audio/video equipment and stuff. I guess adding another one won't be crazy. I take a look to see if I can find a 200Amp ANS fuse or something and run some 4 gauge power wire. I am getting into the group buy for the ground wire kit here, which is all 4 gauge, so I think I'm covered on the grounds that way.
Any other HO alternator folks want to share what they did with their alternator wiring?
Re: High Output Alternator 200A - Fusible Link 120A?
Well, 20A is just an estimate, maybe it's closer to 25A.
We have to remeber that music has a very low duty cycle.
If your draw is 110 amps, you'll probably be using 4-5hp to achieve this output from the alternator. 110 amps is a lot or current. And since music has such a low duty cycle, I'd be very surprised if the draw is noticeable.
If someone's system even can draw over 100 amps for any continous period of time, I would think it's very doubtful that someone would actually feel a loss in HP..
Unless you're running WOT with your music blasting full tilt.
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