Preventative Maintenance - PM List

[Gray Haze]

Originally Posted by tbadiuk

(The oil cap is one of the few parts I suggest you don't go OEM on. A nice billet aluminum off Ebay for $10 will do...)
Ted

I tend to contradict this statement due to personal experiance with TWO ebay caps, both of which the metal retaining clips bent due to excessive crank case pressure, blowing the caps off, On one occasion I was in excess of 160MPH, and lost 3.5 qts of oil. I only made it home because I found the oil cap up ontop of the turbo manifold. The second Cap, blew out somewhere on the road, but thankfully I had a new stock cap in the back of the car.

Grant you I was blowing caps due to bad rings, but this is a suggestion, I continued driving with a new OEM cap with blown rings without poping the oem cap off. The aftermarket caps have a weak retaining clip. If you really want to run the ebay special oil caps, please atleast transfer the metal retaining clip from the OEM as it is a much beefier unit.

[tbadiuk]

Originally Posted by Gray Haze

Ill add to this as well, if the metal spacers in the tbelt covers are missing, toss them. Put all the bolts back in as well.

...and be sure to actually tighten them down more than 1/2 a turn like my mechanic who did my 60k did for the top rear cover bolt! I laugh because he's a fairly meticulous guy normally.

Fuel Fizter is recomended to be replaced every 30K by mitsu as well. Just a slight correction. If running an aftermarket, make sure you replace the elements every 30K as well.

Yep, I do mine probably every 20k or so based on age (ever 4-5 years approx) but I drive my cars very little each year. I said 60k because I can't convince anybody else to do it that soon (I've taken flak in previous threads for saying ever 30 ). It's funny though, one bad tank of gas can kill a filter.

Ted

[tbadiuk]

Whoa! They must not be making those Ebay caps like they used to! I haven't bought one in about 3 years (I made *EVERYBODY* local buy one after my little "experience") but the ones I have the clip was very hard to bend/adjust, even with pliers? Come to think of it I paid $10 for the cap and like $18.99 for shipping (one of those Ebay sellers I remember that lists the items cheap but rapes you on shipping) so may for $30 these were a bit better quality than what's on Ebay now? In any case, yeah, if you can bend that clip with your hands it's no good...

Ted

Originally Posted by Gray Haze

I tend to contradict this statement due to personal experiance with TWO ebay caps, both of which the metal retaining clips bent due to excessive crank case pressure, blowing the caps off, On one occasion I was in excess of 160MPH, and lost 3.5 qts of oil. I only made it home because I found the oil cap up ontop of the turbo manifold. The second Cap, blew out somewhere on the road, but thankfully I had a new stock cap in the back of the car.

Grant you I was blowing caps due to bad rings, but this is a suggestion, I continued driving with a new OEM cap with blown rings without poping the oem cap off. The aftermarket caps have a weak retaining clip. If you really want to run the ebay special oil caps, please atleast transfer the metal retaining clip from the OEM as it is a much beefier unit.

[Gray Haze]

Originally Posted by tbadiuk

It's funny though, one bad tank of gas can kill a filter.
Ted

Its even funnier to see what a clogged filter, WOT, and Any kind of boost can do to a piston

Originally Posted by tbadiuk

Yep, I do mine probably every 20k or so based on age (ever 4-5 years approx) but I drive my cars very little each year.
Ted

I tottaly understand where your coming from on that one, Since Jan of 06 I have driven my car a grand total of MAYBE 1000 miles. Stupid Transfercase, Bell housing, Syncros, Output Shaft, and Piston Rings!

Although I will give my car credit, I broke 7 Tcases on that bell housing and OS. And I drive my car like I Literatly stole it and dont care about it, so im sure the clutchless shifting w/ a 2step didn't help the syncros. But the Tcase WAS my fault, First launch on a new rps carbon/carbon @ 5500... Let the pedal go tooooooo fast, and that was all she wrote. Once the tcase shit the bed, that was the END of everything else attached. Still drove it home though! I will also add in that I got a little over 60K out of that transmission, and if you ask ANYONE who has ever ridden in my car with me, I treat the transmission like its my bitch... They aren't as fragile as everyone makes them out to be. And in the end, All it needed was seals, OS Replaced(had 140K on it) Syncros, and a new bell housing cause when the tcase poped, it broke the bell housing in two.

Since that rebuild ive done OVER a dozen 2step'd launches with NO problems, the secret is getting just enough power to the wheels to bust all 4 loose, or feather the clutch and not shock the hell out of everything. Now to just get this damn toasted engine out of my car.

[Player]

I was looking for a good PM list awhile back, this is an amazing thread. Has a write-up been done or a comprehensive list compiled?

[paul_3000gt@yah]

id throw in check hub bearings, regrease them . check cv boots. calipers for leakes. and sensors suck as oil pressure

[CurtVR-4]

Crank pulley seperated on mine at 70k, kept hearing a loud squeal starting out in first. Luckily I was having other work done and had them take a look at the pulleys, otherwise, bye bye heads. I would recomend replacing it with aftermarket (if you wanna risk the factory QC on the balance of the crank) or replacing it at 60 with stock just to be sure.

Edit: be a good idea to replace wheel bearings/hubs, suspension bushings, balljoints, endlinks, and struts at 90k as well. Not sure if anybody said that yet.