On the door hinges, at the garage here, we do that as part of an oil/lube job. On rust... lot of times theres nothing you can do to prevent it. It doesn't go through fron the outside. It get moisture underneathe, however if it start you can hit it oil/wd40 , I mean if it bubbles poke a hole and hit it with some oil. Also I take you mean on the brakes, the sliders or whatevfer these car use, so the calipers dont get stuck and wear more on one side.
ROTORS
It may not be a problem in other areas of the country, but for daily drivers up in NE, the rotors are a real PITA to remove if you don't put anti-sieze / grease on the rotors. If I had a brand new car, the first thing I would do is break it down and put anti-sieze / corrosion inhibitors on dozens of common problem areas.
Clint
__________________
1991 Stealth RT/TT - Firestorm Red - 193K Miles / Original Owner
Maint: Castrol 10W40 / Mitsu Filter / Rislone
Replaced: 2X clutch / 3X brakes / 2X front rotors / 2X ABS HU / 1X NGK Plugs / 1X Ball joints / 2X Antenna mast / 1X Active exhaust cable / 1X Windshield / 1X Fuel FIlter / 1X Struts / 1X rear rotors / 1X Front Head / VSS / 1X rear wheel bearings / 1X Transfer case (warranty) / 1x Tie rod end (drivers side)
Overhauled: Starter, IAC, BISS, CV Boots
Upgrade: SilverStar Headlights / ebay "Xenon" Fog Bulbs (no more yellow!)
A/F Gauge / MAP - Electronic Boost Logging / MMCd Data Logger
Pending Projects: Steering Rack
Having just opened up a lot of stuff in my engine bay... I have a car that is now a "northeast" summer only driver... I thought my car was well cared for and totally cleaned since it last saw snow but it seems that salt and junk still finds it's way into the depths of the engine bay and hides there. I finally realized what they mean by "salt eats cars"
My battery tray was totally nasty rusty when I pulled it out. Seems like water and stuff sits in the ridges in the tray. I'd pull the battery out and clean that area more often if I had it to do over again. Also salt and sand collected around the intake manifold. Who knows where it came from but carefully running a vacuum around the top of the engine is now going to be part of my regular cleaning routine. The less salt and sand waiting to eat things and fall into the engine when someone opens it... the better...
Having just opened up a lot of stuff in my engine bay... I have a car that is now a "northeast" summer only driver... I thought my car was well cared for and totally cleaned since it last saw snow but it seems that salt and junk still finds it's way into the depths of the engine bay and hides there. I finally realized what they mean by "salt eats cars"
My battery tray was totally nasty rusty when I pulled it out. Seems like water and stuff sits in the ridges in the tray. I'd pull the battery out and clean that area more often if I had it to do over again. Also salt and sand collected around the intake manifold. Who knows where it came from but carefully running a vacuum around the top of the engine is now going to be part of my regular cleaning routine. The less salt and sand waiting to eat things and fall into the engine when someone opens it... the better...
100% agree. We'll add battery tray to the "corrosion problem areas" list
o Battery tray - prime / undercoat / paint
Mine is a daily NE driver and I am convinced that periodic washing of engine compartment and WD40 in the engine compartment (including the battery) has saved me a lot of problems over the years.
Other corrosion problem areas:
o Clutch vacuum reservoir bracket
o Passengers side frame member (under tranny)
o Rear bumper support
o Front and rear strut mounts - antisieze when new/replaced
Good list Clint, I do like the WD 40 list, the ABS connections are especially prone to corrosion which causes a poor connection. I also had the car fail to start because of corrosion (after sitting a couple months) on the starter terminal. Another big one I'd like to add is engine hoses. After 60k miles or so the factory ones tend to become plasticky and brittle and ether leak, or break. This is especially true for those that get hot. I have also seen the FPR line cracking which could lead to a blown motor if one weren't paying attention. You could replace the rubber every 40-60k, or just spend the extra $20 to replace them with silicone and never worry about it again.
Good list Clint, I do like the WD 40 list, the ABS connections are especially prone to corrosion which causes a poor connection. I also had the car fail to start because of corrosion (after sitting a couple months) on the starter terminal. Another big one I'd like to add is engine hoses. After 60k miles or so the factory ones tend to become plasticky and brittle and ether leak, or break. This is especially true for those that get hot. I have also seen the FPR line cracking which could lead to a blown motor if one weren't paying attention. You could replace the rubber every 40-60k, or just spend the extra $20 to replace them with silicone and never worry about it again.
Good feedback .. I added, PCV valve, rocker cover hoses, FPR vacuum line and turbo vacuum line to 60K check/replace list
On the next edit I will move the list to the first post.
MBxxxxx - Y connection on windshield washer hose under hood
MBxxxxx - Nylon tie-wraqp clamp that holds dashpot to throttle body
MBxxxxx - Plastic carpet grommet / cover (beige)
MBxxxxx - Plastic carpet grommet / cover (gray)
MBxxxxx - Wheel-well liner grommets
REPAIR TIP
Anyone figured out how to repair torn wheel well mounting tabs? (They get torn when you try to unscrew rusted hardware securing the wheel-well liners)
I have seen plastic bumper/fender welding systems but have never seen a simple ghetto way to repair damage. (It doesn't have to be pretty - just strong and durable.)
Can't hurt to clean and lubricate the moving parts in the active aero occasionally too, and power antenna. Also I check my tire pressure often enough, especially after season changes. This is stupid stuff but...whatever
Edit: Oh yeah and periodically clean out the moving parts involved with the seatbelt. Once it builds up enough, it won't retract at all and that's no fun.
Last edited by Sandor3kgt : 02-28-2006 at 05:02 PM.
Can't hurt to clean and lubricate the moving parts in the active aero occasionally too, and power antenna. Also I check my tire pressure often enough, especially after season changes. This is stupid stuff but...whatever
Edit: Oh yeah and periodically clean out the moving parts involved with the seatbelt. Once it builds up enough, it won't retract at all and that's no fun.
Please elaborate on the seatbelt PM. The only thing I have done over the years is spray the belt with lemon pledge wax to make it work a little better but have never taken it apart.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Re: Preventative Maintenance - PM List
, I mean if it bubbles poke a hole and hit it with some oil. Also I take you mean on the brakes, the sliders or whatevfer these car use, so the calipers dont get stuck and wear more on one side.
