Do not weld the VCU. Weld the planetary gears to the carrier. Put the VCU in the center diff housing, then put in the planetary gears UPSIDE DOWN and spin the planetary assembly in either direction to take up the backlash. Having it upside down will give you enough room to spot weld the gears to the carrier so that the planetary gears will line up with the internal gear of the center diff housing and the sun gear. Once they are spot welded take the planetary assembly out and weld the planetary gears to eachother (there are three sets of two gears) on both the inside and outside. Do not do it all at once or it will warp. Do a little at a time and test fit it frequently by putting it back into the center diff housing along with the sun gear. This is easier and stronger than welding the VCU. Should you deside to go AWD in the future, it will cost less to replace the planetary assembly than get a new VCU.
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250 RWHP
If you want the exploded views of both 5 and 6 speeds or pics e-mail me at SavagTiger@AOL.com.
94 VR-4 Panama Green Tan Interior
RPS II, gutted cats, flipped BPV, 3SX control arms, 3SX shift bushings, Red Line, Auto-Meter. Rebuilt TC, transaxle, steering rack, heads, and turbos. 360cc's blue printened with in 1%. New short block. RWD convertion and welded rear end.
alright wats the easiest way to get to the planetary gears? the belhousing or the bak of the trans? and if so the belhousing what is holding it on when u get the bolts out is it the shift linkage or what?
alright wats the easiest way to get to the planetary gears? the belhousing or the bak of the trans? and if so the belhousing what is holding it on when u get the bolts out is it the shift linkage or what?
Here's a walkthough on replaceing the output shaft with the tranny in the car. You can access the planetary gears this way as well. Tacking them in place, while in center diff might be tricky, but it'll be better than tearing apart the whole tranny.
Don't be afraid of removing the tranny. It is not difficult and will give you valuable experience. Welding is best done with the tranny out of the car anyway. If it is already out of the car, then going in bell housing first it easier, faster, and less likely to give first timers a problem.
For a 5 speed, remove the 13 mm bolt that near the shift shaft and perpendicular to it. Then take out the shaft. Don't forget to get the spring at the end of it, it may fall into the tranny. If it does get it once the housing is off. Remove the 13 mm bell housing bolts, some maybe be 10 mm instead. You will have 1 long one, 2 REALLY long ones, and four that are only 5 mm longer than the shortest ones. The 5 mm longer ones are located around where the axles go in. Three up top and one down low with one or two of the shorter ones inbetween. You are then ready to remove the bell housing.
For the 6 speeds, remove the 13 mm bolt that near the shift shaft and perpendicular to it. There will be a big knobby looking thing above it and a 22 mm hex head below it, remove them both also. Now remove the shift shaft. Don't forget to get the spring at the end of it, it may fall into the tranny. If it does get it once the housing is off. Now remove the 10 mm bolts along the bell housing including one that is near the clutch fork and two at the bottom facing the opposite direction as the rest. You are then ready to remove the bell housing.
From here on out it is the same for 5 and 6 speeds. Now you can see the front driff and the pinion gear that mates to it. Remove the diff and pull the pinion gear up and off of the output shaft. You may or may not have a black colored oil guide held in with a 10 mm bolt. If you do, then it looks like a big bin looking thing, you can't miss it. Then remove the 13 mm end cover bolts, some may be 10 mm but they all face the same direction except for one. Do not remove that one. Use a hammer and punch to drive the two dowel pins near the bolts out. You can now remove the mid housing.
The output shaft will sticking out of a big coffee can looking thing. The can is your center diff aassembly. On one end you will see four roll pins located 90 degrees apart that hold the aluminum cover onto the steel housing. Use a small punch and drive the roll pins into the center diff assembly as far as they can go. Then hold the center diff with two hands so the output shaft is sticking out downward. Thrust the center assembly down so the output shaft genlty strikes your work bench. This will drive the cover out of the housing. No you can remove the cover, output shaft, planetary assemblly, sun gear, and VCU in that order. With the cover off, you can now push the roll pins all the way through for reassembly after the planetary gears are welded.
this is an amazing link!!!!!!!!! that manual is a godsent!!!!! u guys r baddddasses, just a quick ?? do i need to get all of the actual mitsubishi specialty tools?? or can i just use whatever?? i have rebuilt and old 4 speed manual from a 70's ford but never a transaxle. and just to make sure, in some of the "reassembly of gear shafts" pics it is mounted to that special base?? and then the bearings and gears are installed while "hott" using a hydraulic press?? and also where do i get the "solder" that they talk about?? i hoping that they are not referring to actually soldering with a torcH??? lol i wouldnt think so but you never know lol.. if i can rebuild my FWD trans and sell it it could payfor most of my TT AWD conversion of my 96' FWD N/A!!! soooo i am hopeing i can get it done without any real problems, plus "when and if" i blow my 6-speed i want to fix it my self, im really not into paying some jerkoff $90/hour or more to do something that i could do my self,,, wow i just realized that i am prolly the biggest grease monkey/ predental student, lol i cant help but laugh at the thought of one of my patients asking, " dr.,, why does it smell like gear oil in the office....?" LOL!!!!! hahaha whoops my bad..
any ways thanks guys if you can help with these questions, and if i do or would greatly benifit from these "specialty" tools then where on earth would i get ahold of them??? the dealer?? do they cost$$$$$? thanks again!!
You just need a 20-25 ton press with a table big enough to fit the end cover and shafts into, a split bearing puller (A.K.A.-Clam shell), and some press plates (A.K.A.-arbor plates which should come with the press). You do not need to heat anything. You just need a press.
The one to worry about is 5th gear on the input shaft of 5 speeds. That is the first gear you take off of the input shaft. Those are pretty tough on and off. Unless the tranny has been sitting for a long time, everything else should come off with out much effort. Just remember to have everything sit perfectly striaght on the press. If you start pressing some thing on even a little crooked, it will break or damage things.
Yep, my 6 ton press was good enough for everything but 5th gear. Since the bearing splitter I had was not perfectly level either, I was too hesitant about getting a 20 ton press for fear of chipping the teeth. Just skipped replacing 3/4th synchro.
hello im here because i am currently getting my a$$ handed to me by my 1993 vr4 i have the engine and tranny out of the car but i can get them apart any one ever had this prob befroe
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Re: Getrag Rebuild Manual - 5 and 6 speed models
soooo i am hopeing i can get it done without any real problems, plus "when and if" i blow my 6-speed i want to fix it my self, im really not into paying some jerkoff $90/hour or more to do something that i could do my self,,, wow i just realized that i am prolly the biggest grease monkey/ predental student, lol i cant help but laugh at the thought of one of my patients asking, " dr.,, why does it smell like gear oil in the office....?" LOL!!!!! hahaha whoops my bad..
