Getrag Rebuild Manual - 5 and 6 speed models

[Robert Pond]

I reciently changed the clutch in my 94 VR4 only to find a problem with 2ed gear (syncro I believe). This will be invaluable help for me, thank you for the file. I also found R&R of this gear box the most dificult in my personal history.
I left the engine in the frame and think it my have been easier to remove them both.

[Bret Brinkmann]

The easiest way to install the tranny is with a cherry picker attached to where the shift cable bracket is. Just jack it up slowly and keep manuvouring it as you go along. Pop out the top rubber breather and look into the hole with a light to align the input shaft splines into the clutch disk. You can get it flat against the engine in less than 5 minutes using this stratagy.

If you try to force the tranny into place you will most likely damage the pressure plate figures. This will result in a dragging clutch and 2nd gear is the most sensitive to a draging clutch. The only fix for a damaged pressure plate is a new plate. You may need to adjust your shift cables under the shift boot as well.

My experience with these trannys has proven to be opposite of yours. I think they are one of the easiest to work with. What other trannys do you have experience with out of curiousity?

[donniekak]

Originally Posted by Bret Brinkmann

The easiest way to install the tranny is with a cherry picker attached to where the shift cable bracket is. Just jack it up slowly and keep manuvouring it as you go along. Pop out the top rubber breather and look into the hole with a light to align the input shaft splines into the clutch disk. You can get it flat against the engine in less than 5 minutes using this stratagy.

If you try to force the tranny into place you will most likely damage the pressure plate figures. This will result in a dragging clutch and 2nd gear is the most sensitive to a draging clutch. The only fix for a damaged pressure plate is a new plate. You may need to adjust your shift cables under the shift boot as well.

My experience with these trannys has proven to be opposite of yours. I think they are one of the easiest to work with. What other trannys do you have experience with out of curiousity?

These are the easiest awd transmissions to work on. Even the dsm transmissions are more complex to take apart and assemble.

[MichaelMR2]

Firstly Thanks guys, I don't know if there is anything quite as awesome as this effort for the 3s.

one thing that's not covered, having just gone through all of this is how the cabless & looms are tied down on the box, if would be brilliant to have a diagram as to exactly how and where the tie downs are suppose to be attached... this is the last part that I cannot find a reference to in any other manual or guide that I have.

anyone got for example some photo's or other useful way if seeing exactly what goes where on the outside of the box? not fussed about the clutch master + shifter cable holder..just as above...showing the other stuff.

[ras463us]

Does anyone have the secret to removing the spacer ring and ball from the 6 speed input shaft?

[MichaelMR2]

what page and part numbers are you refering to?

[ras463us]

Originally Posted by MichaelMR2

what page and part numbers are you refering to?

Page 22-35 W6MG1 - Input shaft detail
Item #10 / 5th gear bearing sleeve
Item #11 / Spacer ring
Item #12 / Steel ball
Item #15 / 4th gear bearing sleeve

I had 5th and 6th off. The 5th gear bearing sleeve holds the spacer in place. I used my bearing tool under item #17 / 3rd gear to press the assembly apart. I ended up splitting the 4th gear sleeve, damaging the needle bearing, shaft, and ball.

It would appear that I skipped step E on 22-36, but there did not seem to be enough room to get the bearing tool under the syncro teeth of the 4th gear. I would have had to use the teeth surfaces, and thought it would damage the teeth.

[MichaelMR2]

Oh crap :| for actual work on the axles I got a local mob to use $1500 worth of bearing separators to get it all apart. sorry I can't help.

[Bret Brinkmann]

Originally Posted by ras463us

...It would appear that I skipped step E on 22-36, but there did not seem to be enough room to get the bearing tool under the syncro teeth of the 4th gear. I would have had to use the teeth surfaces, and thought it would damage the teeth.

Do either exactly that or put your split bearing puller, aka clam shell, under 3rd gear and press it off only until you start to get more resistance. Then flip the assembly upside down and press the spacer ring back down on the shaft. This will make a gap big enough to allow the check ball to be removed. After the ball is ot of the way, you can press everything off.

I usually press just 4th gear off by putting the puller under the dog teeth. The will only chip if that bearing sleeve is stuck on there really good. In which case you will know because it won't come off right away. Then you can just switch to the other method.

If you try to press off 4th, then make sure the nuts on the puller are tight. If things get croocked, then you are more likely to break teeth.

[pearlwitestealth]

crap guys i still need help. i need to kno the easiest way to do the VCU on the getrag trans when making it just FWD rather then the AWD.