What are the benefits of the underdrive pulley over the overdrive? I saw the aluminum lightweight overdrive pulley on 3sx that replaces the stock without replacing anything else and would get that if its not significantly better to get the underdrive. Thanks in advance
Lightweight pulleys work like this.. Depending on other mods, you may gain from like 8-12 crank hp, and maybe 5 WHP. Underdriving is for those with power O.C.D. like myself. You only net like an additional 12%, so instead of getting 5 WHP, I might have gotten 6 or 6.5. The only thing that is annoying is lights dimming at night. It was ok for the first 3 months, now it just gets old.
I don't know I see a lot of "test pipe is like 8-10hp!" and "cat-back is like another 10hp"
Let's be realistic...
I went from (at different times):
1) cat-back
2) test pipe
3) intake and advance timing 3 degrees
The butt dyno is very hard to judge.. and I only have the sohc mtx, but is a nice torquey little v6. But anyway it felt like it was 90% sound increase (those mods) and 10% power increase. In that my car got pretty damn loud, and at WOT it's loud loud.
But I have a feeling intake+testpipe+cat-back is only about 10 hp to the wheels. Then of course that translates to a little bit more at the crank. Then we all know the intake is like 0.5whp so it's completely negligable. But the more mods you have the more power the intake will add... (say a stock motor with intake vs. a motor with headers and full exhaust
It sure would be nice to throw $600 down for long tube headers for ~10whp (its sohc not dohc, which is claimed around 15-18) but it'd still be "slow" compared to "fast" cars such as STi's, 350z, Evo, etc etc etc.
Downpipe seems like it'd be a nice investment... probably ~8 whp.
And i'm just guessing on these based on how much power I felt was added with my intake and exhaust. I felt as if the test pipe added just as much power as my cat-back did. But it is definitely difficult to tell especially when I installed them like 2 years apart.
It's like, cut the BS and just do a DOHC TT swap and stop fiddling around with something that has very low potential. Or perhaps a 3.5L DOHC swap... which would be much more beneficial than just a 3.0DOHC because I remember reading the 3.5 is around 240hp 230tq (I forget) but that's definitely greater gains (SOHC -> 3.5L, rather than SOHC -> 3.0dohc)
(if I had time and was able to hack my car up (parents bought it for me 3 yrs ago), i'd love to gut the inside so that I just have the front seats, carbon fiber hood, really light wheels, lighter crank pulley and flywheel.... because I know less weight is the same as adding HP... reminds me of that video I saw of a completely gutted late 90's Civic Hatch with a built up K20-A motor running close to 300hp (RSX-S motor with 200hp stock) whooping the **** out of c5 corvettes and even a stock supra turbo)
All we need now, is a SOHC upgrade BIBLE, im pretty sure the SOHC could be pretty fast, if we upgrade it right.
Now, my SOHC has a 2'' exhaust from the stock headers to the muffler, with 2 mandrel bends, Fidanza Flywheel, SouthBend TZ stage 2 Clutch, Intax Lowering Springs, Bomz Short Ram Intake, According to the BIBLE, i should have gained 20HP right?
My next project will be fix leaky seals, lighter pully, and DOHC TB, how much willl that gain me?
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Performance:Stage "2" TZ Southbend Clutch, Fidanza N/A Flywheel, Custom Push Button Start, Bomz Racing Intake, Konig Unknowns 18's, Federal 245/40ZR/18, Northgate 2'' Custom Catback Exhaust, KYB Shocks & Struts, Intrax Springs, SOHC 5 spd,
Sound: Pioneer HU, Pioneer 6-disc CD Player, Memphis PR 500.1, 2 DD 8's cutom box
140 DB
Interior:
Blue LED's
Blue/Black Shift boot
Custom Gauge
Work in progress:
I have a SOHC too mine is an auto ... got a intake, downpipe, test pipe, plenum spacer, plug wires, crank pulley, iridium plugs, and lots of weight loss (no a/c, 15lb battery, no spare tire/jack, etc.).
I was supposed to do a single turbo setup but I found out that the installation and tuning would break my bank.
I'm probably getting a single shot next followed by some rpw stage 2 cams, headwork, and headers sometime next year.
After spending years building my car up then buying a C5 last year Im gonna be one of those people that says dont' waste your money building up an NA. I spent a lot of time and money only to get punked by family sedans and crap cars. If the companies out there would have given us an affordable Supercharging or turbo kits then it would be worth it but Ive been here long enough to know its not gonna happen. On the flipside I did learn alot about cars so Im not it total regret. I think its best to have some fun adding an intake, catback, rip some weight out but to spend big money on these cars you will be greatly disappointed. Save for a VR4 or TT swap as you guys have heard a thousand times on here.
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PERFORMANCE:RiPP Headers,Maximal Catback,MSD(6AL Box,Blaster Coil,Wires),3SX Pulley,DOHC TBw/plenum port & coolant bypass,K&N filter w/HomeDepot pipe, Supermac coldair box, Topline GroundWires, Ek2 Plenum Spacer
WEIGHT LOSS:Removed (AC,SRS,crash bars,rearseat,tar, GasTank Shield,extra wires).MOMO street racer gt seats,Hawker 12lb.battery. Hollowed trunk/trunklid,replaced random unseen bolts w/zipties, solid motormounts,CF Evo hood, Took a big dump -->
SUSPENSION:Ground Control, New KYB's, Front/Rear Strut bars, Dohc rear Anti-sway bar, Irotors brake upgrade kit
yea and if u just turbo ur shit u wont have to deal with it....just save ur money. n/a to force induction will always own! u can always just throw some nitrous in the mix
Re: N/A UPGRADE BIBLE. wish i had this when i was a NOOB.
i know this is not really what you are talking about but i was wondering how or if you need to do any modification to put the stock 24V 3.0L engine from the SL into the base 3000gt.
Thing that is nice about N/A is that its RAW power that you don't have to wait for. 320hp NA will outperform 320hp from forced induction any day right? How much would it be to achieve 300+ hp on a N/A. I know showdown motor sports will do a TT swap for me for 3,800, and that's with a completely rebuilt motor and all new parts.
well technically nitrous is FI-but a bad ass header,intake, and full exhaust, and a 150shot. will definately put you up with the stock turbo's. but generally we have no real aftermarket for n/a.
I mean UDP, will only add to so much. TUNING w. an SAFC will definately put ur power in range.
stock dyno on 93 stealth es w. 153k on original clutch
173fwhp + 30 from intake header full exhaust+ fuel controller
2o3fwhp then throw a 125 zex or venom kit. 318fwhp approx. (as spray usually puts out about 10hp less due to irregular combustion of single nozzle distribution) it's definately achieveable but it'll run you like a grand but itll be well worth it. as when u dont spray ur peddle wont have the push for trouble like turbo would.
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