N/A UPGRADE BIBLE. - Page 3 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

tonygold · 06-20-2002, 08:40 AM

im getting the downpipe right after i buy some new rotors...once again yougart comes threw with some good info. So whats up with the headers?? I want some...damn it VR-4 mod is losing money everyday

oh well...i can wait 3 months longer...still cant find a red 2nd gen with light mods to save my life. need to take a trip over to houston or dallas.

93 Green RT · 06-20-2002, 09:03 AM

Audiophobe, imagine if you will a straight and narrow creek or stream with running water passing through. Along the way there is a small but wider, deeper spot or pool that the water dumps into before it narrows back together into the little stream and continues on with it’s journey. If you take a close look along the sides of the pool area, you will see some of the water along the bank is curling back around and actually heading upstream towards the original entrance. When it gets there it then dumps itself back into the main flow and shoots along with rest of the current trying once again to squeeze itself through the bottleneck exit so it can continue on down the stream and once again be one with the rest of the water flow.

This is EXACTLY how an exhaust system works! The cat is the pool area that is wider than the rest of the exhaust, thus turbulence is created and exhaust flow is hindered. Not to mention it has internals that slow it down even more. The test pipe gets rid of the “pool” area and creates a smoother flowing straight shot for the exhaust to be blown out. This is true for everything else regarding your exhaust system as well, from the exhaust manifolds and downpipe, to the resonator box and mufflers. More flow is the way to go for an NA, don’t cha know!!!

The test pipe or downpipe will increase your exhaust sound a little, but not enough to make that much of difference. The great thing about the test pipe is it’s CHEAP! If you don’t like the sound (and you will) you can always take it off and sell it to someone here on 3SI and make at least half your money back.

AustinGT, I think about a 5 to 8 hp increase with everything else stock would be more realistic. Then as you free up other sections of your exhaust you will get additional hp outta the test pipe.

JagdStealth · 06-20-2002, 09:49 AM

13HP gain with a downpipe? Was this dyno'd?

e2k built a really nice downpipe..had the car dyno'd before and after and got NO gain, only a much nicer HP/TQ curve...

93 Green RT · 06-20-2002, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JagdStealth
13HP gain with a downpipe? Was this dyno'd?

e2k built a really nice downpipe..had the car dyno'd before and after and got NO gain, only a much nicer HP/TQ curve...

EK2 originally got a gain of about a steady 5 hp to the wheel on his initial dyno run. There was a follow up somewhere later about something not being tested correctly and the actual gain was closer to 10 or 12 hp.

blkstealth · 06-20-2002, 10:00 AM

I thought that ek2 said he got a 5hp to the wheels gain on the car... not 13.. if my memory serves me..

JagdStealth · 06-20-2002, 10:17 AM

Thanks for correcting me guys! I guess I should have gone with the DP on my old NA

YOGURT! · 06-20-2002, 10:50 AM

ek2 downpipe: makes 13 hp according to bob. (ek2mfg) as stated his initial run made 5hp across the rpm range. but look at 3sx site. it states 13. and i felt it for sure.

audiophobe, green rt is right. strighter the better.
and youre not gonna want my exhaust if youre afraid of noise. the thing is pretty loud. downpipe is same untill 4k rpm, then it changes.

Dethsled. what the fuck is YOUR problem, i just put this up there for newbies. i didnt have any upgrade guide with real world feedback when i was dumping 3k into my car. jesus i was just trying to help others who havent been modifying thier car yet to get on the right track. lay off man.

and tony..... man its YOGURT! not.. yaorokgarcakatai. or however youre spellin it!

tonygold · 06-20-2002, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by YOGURT!

and tony..... man its YOGURT! not.. yaorokgarcakatai. or however youre spellin it!

SCREW YOU!!!! LOL jkin...now you know i cant spell and plus im at work so proof reading is out of the question...sorry bout that

ill work on it...

(mumbling) youga...dolt...yogau...damn it! copy and paste ---------->YOGURT! GOT IT!!!

NA Beef · 06-20-2002, 01:14 PM

Great Job Yogurt. Very well done. As for headers, the problems seems to be the constraints of the space near the alternator and AC pulleys. It can be done, but it will be a tight, tight squeeze and you will need to heat protect and shield everything.

One other note hear, the heads do flow very well, as Yogurt said. However, you can increase valve diameter and compression; estimated gains of 15-20%, depening on cam mods, too. If you're going to add nitrous, I wouldn't go over 11:1, but if you want it straight, 12:1 is high and requires high octane.

Audiophobe · 06-20-2002, 01:59 PM

Thanks Green, you too Yogurt!
I'll probobly will go with the DP, Intake, and pulley. I doubt I'll pass emmision resting with the test pipe, and I don't have the means to take it on and off. But I'll probobly be happy with those mods and a bit throatier sound.

06-20-2002, 08:40 AM	#21 (permalink)
tonygold Verified Seller Join Date: May 2001 Location: -TEXAS- Trader Rating: (34)	im getting the downpipe right after i buy some new rotors...once again yougart comes threw with some good info. So whats up with the headers?? I want some...damn it VR-4 mod is losing money everyday oh well...i can wait 3 months longer...still cant find a red 2nd gen with light mods to save my life. need to take a trip over to houston or dallas. __________________ The Vette guys want a Viper and the Viper guys want a Supra and the Supra guys want a Z06 and the Z06 guys want a 911 Turbo and all of them really just wish they had bought a 3000GT VR4 and called it done -IPSjeff 2003-5 ??COLOR?? Benz E55 AMG --- (Future Daliy Driver--still searching) 2003 Maroon Mazda 6 --- Daliy Driver #1 (soon to be sold) 1994 Forrest Green 3.5L Stealth RT --- Auto --- Daliy Driver #2 (soon to be sold) 1992 Forrest Green 3.5L Stealth TT DR 900's (AKA TBD) 1994 Jade Green Supra TT SP77 (AKA The Russian Rocket) ~~1994 Yellow Stealth TT SOLD~~ ~~1991 Uhhh Brown? Eagle Summit --- SOLD~~ ~~1986 Old n Dirty Buick Cutlass Supreme --- SOLD~~ ~~1991 White Stealth TT--- SOLD~~ ~~1995 Red Mitsu 3000GT --- SOLD My 1st car~~

06-20-2002, 10:00 AM	#25 (permalink)
blkstealth Car freak. Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: N. Miami FL / So. IN Trader Rating: (2)	I thought that ek2 said he got a 5hp to the wheels gain on the car... not 13.. if my memory serves me.. __________________ 92' Black Stealth ES/RT Member #0923

06-20-2002, 10:50 AM	#27 (permalink)
YOGURT! Import Chop House Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Rochester, NY Drives: '03 350Z Track Trader Rating: (49)	just a few things. ek2 downpipe: makes 13 hp according to bob. (ek2mfg) as stated his initial run made 5hp across the rpm range. but look at 3sx site. it states 13. and i felt it for sure. audiophobe, green rt is right. strighter the better. and youre not gonna want my exhaust if youre afraid of noise. the thing is pretty loud. downpipe is same untill 4k rpm, then it changes. Dethsled. what the fuck is YOUR problem, i just put this up there for newbies. i didnt have any upgrade guide with real world feedback when i was dumping 3k into my car. jesus i was just trying to help others who havent been modifying thier car yet to get on the right track. lay off man. and tony..... man its YOGURT! not.. yaorokgarcakatai. or however youre spellin it!

06-20-2002, 01:14 PM	#29 (permalink)
NA Beef Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S. Louisiana Trader Rating: (0)	Great Job Yogurt. Very well done. As for headers, the problems seems to be the constraints of the space near the alternator and AC pulleys. It can be done, but it will be a tight, tight squeeze and you will need to heat protect and shield everything. One other note hear, the heads do flow very well, as Yogurt said. However, you can increase valve diameter and compression; estimated gains of 15-20%, depening on cam mods, too. If you're going to add nitrous, I wouldn't go over 11:1, but if you want it straight, 12:1 is high and requires high octane. __________________ Just trying out a rice rod.

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06-20-2002, 09:03 AM	#22 (permalink)
93 Green RT Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Dallas, Texas Drives: '93 Stealth R/T Trader Rating: (0)	Audiophobe, imagine if you will a straight and narrow creek or stream with running water passing through. Along the way there is a small but wider, deeper spot or pool that the water dumps into before it narrows back together into the little stream and continues on with it’s journey. If you take a close look along the sides of the pool area, you will see some of the water along the bank is curling back around and actually heading upstream towards the original entrance. When it gets there it then dumps itself back into the main flow and shoots along with rest of the current trying once again to squeeze itself through the bottleneck exit so it can continue on down the stream and once again be one with the rest of the water flow. This is EXACTLY how an exhaust system works! The cat is the pool area that is wider than the rest of the exhaust, thus turbulence is created and exhaust flow is hindered. Not to mention it has internals that slow it down even more. The test pipe gets rid of the “pool” area and creates a smoother flowing straight shot for the exhaust to be blown out. This is true for everything else regarding your exhaust system as well, from the exhaust manifolds and downpipe, to the resonator box and mufflers. More flow is the way to go for an NA, don’t cha know!!! The test pipe or downpipe will increase your exhaust sound a little, but not enough to make that much of difference. The great thing about the test pipe is it’s CHEAP! If you don’t like the sound (and you will) you can always take it off and sell it to someone here on 3SI and make at least half your money back. AustinGT, I think about a 5 to 8 hp increase with everything else stock would be more realistic. Then as you free up other sections of your exhaust you will get additional hp outta the test pipe.

06-20-2002, 10:17 AM	#26 (permalink)
JagdStealth Badassical Baddage Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: San Diego, CA Drives: 1000cc Trader Rating: (7)	Thanks for correcting me guys! I guess I should have gone with the DP on my old NA

06-20-2002, 01:59 PM	#30 (permalink)
Audiophobe Forum Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: CT Trader Rating: (4)	Thanks Green, you too Yogurt! I'll probobly will go with the DP, Intake, and pulley. I doubt I'll pass emmision resting with the test pipe, and I don't have the means to take it on and off. But I'll probobly be happy with those mods and a bit throatier sound.