N/A UPGRADE BIBLE.

[chansigril]

superchargers will have larger traction issues that a turbocharged car due to turbo lag. a sc provides more power down low than it does up top, linearly, since a sc is parasitic. i am speaking about a centrifugal sc here, not a roots, that's a whole different animal. i investigated the sc issue thoroughly, look at my sig

however, unlike the true tt cars, a fwd tt (running 8 psi at 10:1) does not suffer anywhere near the lag that a 8:1 running 12-15 psi will. where it matters is before the turbo is providing any power, at the 1k-~3k rpm range. the turbos then start providing power almost instantly at 8 psi. the sc is providing power from go.

a single turbo, from all the research i've seen, is heinous. if you want forced induction, go the tt route. you've already got the hardware to do it, so little custom work is involved ($$$) plus you don't have to deal with the engineering nightmare. i would recommend it over the sc route, but just my 2c of course.

hope this helps, safe travels.

- mike

[Madrox]

You could go with both. Have the supercharger engage first up to about 3k RPM then make the turbos engage. I don't know exactly how to do it, but I've heard of it working good.

[chansigril]

madrox said:

You could go with both. Have the supercharger engage first up to about 3k RPM then make the turbos engage. I don't know exactly how to do it, but I've heard of it working good.

... if you could find the room... and have about $30k to spend, minimum... and have someone to work it out for you and do *all* the custom fabrication, engineering and install work, assuming you aren't planning on doing some of it yourself...

theoretically, it would be wonderful... that's theoretically speaking of course

safe travels.

- mike

[TajMan]

Ok I just read this whole thing and I'm pissed off at all the people flaming and arguing about the UDP's that made this thread so long. I thought I'd add a little N/A upgrade info for all you automatic guys out there. If you have an ATX, you obviously can't put in a high performance clutch or lightweight flywheel. You can, however, upgrade the automatic tranny.

1. - Tranny oil cooler: Won't help performance, but will keep your tranny cooler and extend the life

2. - Shift kit: Cheap mod that makes the ATX shift faster. Well worth the money, you can feel the difference.

3. - End Clutch Upgrade: Doesn't really help performance, but nice to do when you have your tranny out doing other stuff. Good preventive maintainance to keep your tranny lasting longer

4. - Stall Converter: Basically a new torque converter that has a higher stall RPM. With the stock torque converter, you can power brake and floor it, and your engine will rev to about 2K rpm. With the upgraded one, you can power brake and it will rev to about 3.5K rpm. This will help a lot with launching, but you sacrifice everyday driveability.

Your ATX doesn't have to be slow! It may be a dog off the line, but race from a 30mph roll. You can still put all the civic rice boys to shame.

[kdog109sd]

Taj,
You don't want a stall that high for the torque converter. 2900 or 3100 seems reasonable. At 3500 you'll break a lot of transmissions and diffrentials, and get a lot of wheel hop and wheel spin.
Anyway if you use your stock converter to get it at a higher stall, you can't go more than 700-900 over the stock stall. And if you want a stall higher than that, be prepared to cash out some money cuase the cases are hard to come by.

[Matthew3000GTsL]

In the bible you post it says to get a clutch and afew other parts but when you get TT wont you get rid of like the clutch b/c when I look at clutches to buy and exaust they say like non-turbo and turbo only.

[kdog109sd]

what are you talking about? Both non-turbo and turbo have clutches if they have manual transmissions - no ifs or buts.

Are you talking about the End clutch? if you are it is the overdrive gear in the automatic cars. basically the steel plates are thicker and the friction plates are thinner and also anti-warp. The reason you want to replace the end clutch is becuase the steel plates tend to brake under high heat and high horsepower applications. Its just a safty messure.

Another thing that auto guys might want to do is weld the little clip on the diffrential. Ask Hans about that one or do a search its been covered before, but basically it breaks off very easily and is a major factor in auto tranny faliure.

[awild]

I think that he is talking about the heftier vr4 trans...but if you put turbos in an NA you dont need to do the vr4 trans too. But if you dont at least upgrade your drive train then you will prolly have to in the next month.

[Matthew3000GTsL]

Alright thx.

[mikes2nd]

I want to see a link lobster about the UDP claims?

Just one good one is all I want to see.

HOW LONG HAS ANYONE HERE RUN AN UDP/3SX pulley?

HAS YOU ENGINE FAILED BECAUSE OF IT?

CAN YOU ATTRIBUTE IT TO THE UDP? or the fact that a
harmonic resonator didnt exsist?