I suspect a seal that has come off will not be re-seatable. It takes very little force to move the seal up and down the valve stem, but to remove and replace the keepers, you need something holding the valve up: if the heads are on the car, compressed air in the cylinder is the usual choice, though some use rope fed in through the spark plug hole.
Here's pictures of my ghetto keeper installer. Works like the silver-bullet-looking tools are supposed to. Just put keepers in retainer and press onto end of valve stem with thumb. Next, center this tool on top of the retainer and press down with whatever you can. CLICK! The socket presses down retainer/valve-spring. The sprung inner sleeve lets the keepers rise up from retainer a bit as they travel down the stem toward the groove and then presses them down into the retainer once they reach the groove.
Deep 13mm socket. 1/2" nut for spacing. Spring is .4" dia (.5" would be better) & .7" long. Steel sleeve is 12mm OD, 8mm ID, 1/2" long. These parts were found at an Ace Hardware.
Last edited by mkmckenzie : 09-17-2008 at 06:55 PM.
Here's pictures of my ghetto keeper installer. Works like the silver-bullet-looking tools are supposed to. Just put keepers in retainer and press onto end of valve stem with thumb. Next, center this tool on top of the retainer and press down with whatever you can. CLICK! The socket presses down retainer/valve-spring. The sprung inner sleeve lets the keepers rise up from retainer a bit as they travel down the stem toward the groove and then presses them down into the retainer once they reach the groove.
Deep 13mm socket. 1/2" nut for spacing. Spring is .4" dia (.5" would be better) & .7" long. Steel sleeve is 12mm OD, 8mm ID, 1/2" long. These parts were found at an Ace Hardware.
Thank You ... i'll try to make one liek that to remove the keepers also ... just put a magnet in there... this is amzing idea, thanks!...
Yeah, I did have to ghetto-up a remover for the back 4-5 valves that lacked enough clearence to use the purchased remover. So I put 3 very strong little magnets in the end of a 14mm socket and use a prybar to depress. It worked, but not very well -- the keepers didn't want to come loose (I prolly needed more or stronger magnets).
Wow, now if I can incorporate that into my cheap and easy
valve spring compressor ... C-clamp, 5/8" socket and a piece
of flat steel
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmckenzie
Here's pictures of my ghetto keeper installer. Works like the silver-bullet-looking tools are supposed to. Just put keepers in retainer and press onto end of valve stem with thumb. Next, center this tool on top of the retainer and press down with whatever you can. CLICK! The socket presses down retainer/valve-spring. The sprung inner sleeve lets the keepers rise up from retainer a bit as they travel down the stem toward the groove and then presses them down into the retainer once they reach the groove.
Deep 13mm socket. 1/2" nut for spacing. Spring is .4" dia (.5" would be better) & .7" long. Steel sleeve is 12mm OD, 8mm ID, 1/2" long. These parts were found at an Ace Hardware.
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"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you're gonna see some serious shit."
It's been awhile since this thread was active but I thought I'd post anyway. I'm approaching the very same project and really enjoyed reading all the input. I've done the timing belt thing already and will probably pull the cams, the t.b. wasn't that difficult. I have a '95 VR4 and in looking up the valve stem seals there is a break off date on the seals. One for engines manuf. prior ot 11/94 and on for after that date. Here's my qustion, finally, how can I determine the manufacture date on my car? My vin number says 1995, the id tag in the driver's side door, tire pressures etc, says June 1994. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Make your own valve spring compressor for $15
... i'll try to make one liek that to remove the keepers also 
