In car oil pump replacement (faq).

[Toni]

Created a faq from this weekends pump replacement. Decided it should be a seperate post for easier searching. Includes description with pics, pictures.

http://www.penguinhosting.net/~bigma...p/oilpump.html

Let me know if there are any additions or changes.

-Antoni

[Monochrome]

Great write up! You should note to use a small amount of RTV on both sides of the gaskets to avoid leaks.

You can also get away with leaving the oil cooler lines and front turbo feed line bolted to the oil filter housing when you unbolt it from the pump. It'll easily push out of the way so you can remove the pump. Saves from having to buy new crush washers for all those banjo bolts.

[defgh1]

Originally Posted by eyeluvmy3kgt

I have an oil leak coming from the back of the block between the oil pump and the block about a cm above the oil pan. You guys think I just need to put a new oil pump gasket on and seal it up good? I'm dreading this job.

Yup, been there and had that. Pump is not completely sealed to block. I would first check all oil pump bolts are torqued to spec. If that does not correct it then it is the gasket.

Doug H

[Toni]

Haha, its funny how I still find the time to drink at least 10 every night WITH girls I might add

[eyeluvmy3kgt]

Originally Posted by defgh1

Nice write-up. I would emphasize the importance of ensuring proper oil pump gasket alignment of the pump channels and block surface. Use of a small amount of gasket adhesive between the pump and gasket will help keep it aligned. If the gasket slips just a little or gets pinched during the install you will end up with a oil leak from the pump and you will have to start all over again.

Doug H

I have an oil leak coming from the back of the block between the oil pump and the block about a cm above the oil pan. You guys think I just need to put a new oil pump gasket on and seal it up good? I'm dreading this job.

[Project 3000GT]

Here is a correction for you:

I just took mine off about 20 minutes ago and I did NOT have to remove the a/c compressor or the bracket holding the compressor on to remove the oil pump. I have a 1995 3000GT Base. Now, I'm going to go ahead and put my new timing belt on since I have so much shit torn apart anyways, but I've noticed that you WILL have to remove the motor mount bracket attached to the engine just to get the old timing belt off and the new one in there.

[ddsmith]

Originally Posted by Project 3000GT

Here is a correction for you:

I just took mine off about 20 minutes ago and I did NOT have to remove the a/c compressor or the bracket holding the compressor on to remove the oil pump. I have a 1995 3000GT Base. Now, I'm going to go ahead and put my new timing belt on since I have so much shit torn apart anyways, but I've noticed that you WILL have to remove the motor mount bracket attached to the engine just to get the old timing belt off and the new one in there.

On the VR4's you must at least remove the three bolts holding the A/C compressor in place so it can move far enough to get to the three oil filter adapter bolts. Two of which have holes in the A/C bracket to get to. The third one at the top has no hole and is a bitch to remove but can be done with an offset box wrench. The back of the VR4 oil pump has a groove which runs nearly all the way around the pump and returns back to the sump. This will allow most leaks to just recycle. The only problem area is on the firewall side of the pump because the groove stops before this area. You definately should apply some sort of sealer to this area. Here is a picture of the pump so people can see what I'm talking about. Thanks DoctorStupid for the picture. Hope you don't mind.

[eyebrowski]

Do the turbo and NTs use the oil pump/parts?

[jbavousett]

Bringing back the dead...but do I need a puller for the timing belt pulley? I may be doing this soonish.

[3000GT_Rider]

Nope slides right off