1G Electronic Boost Data Logging

[cbatters]

Originally Posted by Kuato

I have the sensor teed with my boost gauge line to the back of the plenum.

I did a leak test, and everything is tight...

1. Confirm that you have +5V to sensor

2. Change MMCd to English to see units in PSI.


Clint

[Kuato]

I'm reading 4.97v to the sensor. After changing the units to psi, I got the following
E-01 Idle -7psi Full Boost 14.5psi

MMCD Idle -3.3, -4psi Full Boost 9.1,9.6psi

[cbatters]

SAMCO/SKUNKWORKS

Changed injectors with a set that I had cleaned/flow tested and the problem we were fighting with low O2 voltage on one bank under under light load immediately went away. Sending out the old injectors now to confirm that there was a flow problem on one or more of the rear injectors.

Still fighting some knock issues that I believe are related to excess oil from valve stem seals that lower the effective octanne of the fuel. (I got a repreive when I used an additive that is supposed to help swell the valve stem seals. Was pleasantly surprised that the knock is almost completely gone. Permanent solution is obviously to replace the VSS which I am planning to do some time over the holidays.)

I don't recall if you ever tried changing the injectors when you wre fighting the same problem. I may have an extra set of cleaned/flow tested injectors available shortly.


Clint

[skunkworks]

my problems with the low o2s are all but gone - I have to try really hard to get it to do it. This was all but fixed with a new fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump rewire. The car has been running wonderfully except for the knock. It seems to be random but like you have mentioned that the longer you run it with low manifold pressure(vaccume) the worst the knock is when accellerating after. again WOT sees no knock.

I think you are on the right track - my car has 122000 miles on it and i have a little bit of oil in the intake track and I am sure I am getting it though the vss.

This would be my dream - dr stage II heads - dr 500 turbos and new dsm injectors with some sort of fuel controller. kind of an expenive intake oil leak fix but what the heck. new vss, turbo seals and injectors with 3rd gen lifters. unlike yours mine are quite loud at least twice a week. I have new rod bearings and oil pump so I hope my bottem end will last a while longer. over 10000 miles sense the install.

sam

btw - I did replace the injectors with some used one from here. It didn't help the knock and my low o2s - but I had to take them out because everyone of them leaked at the seam between the plastic and the metal. I think they just sat too long without being used.

sam

[cbatters]

Originally Posted by skunkworks

my problems with the low o2s are all but gone - I have to try really hard to get it to do it. This was all but fixed with a new fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump rewire. The car has been running wonderfully except for the knock. It seems to be random but like you have mentioned that the longer you run it with low manifold pressure(vaccume) the worst the knock is when accellerating after. again WOT sees no knock.

I think you are on the right track - my car has 122000 miles on it and i have a little bit of oil in the intake track and I am sure I am getting it though the vss.

This would be my dream - dr stage II heads - dr 500 turbos and new dsm injectors with some sort of fuel controller. kind of an expenive intake oil leak fix but what the heck. new vss, turbo seals and injectors with 3rd gen lifters. unlike yours mine are quite loud at least twice a week. I have new rod bearings and oil pump so I hope my bottem end will last a while longer. over 10000 miles sense the install.

sam

btw - I did replace the injectors with some used one from here. It didn't help the knock and my low o2s - but I had to take them out because everyone of them leaked at the seam between the plastic and the metal. I think they just sat too long without being used.

sam

Three things:

1. When you say leak are you referring to a fuel leak on the injectors or an air leak betwen the injector and the intake manifold. (My old injector/manifold bushings were as hard as rocks.)

2. I should end up with a set of serialized/cleaned/flow tested injectors shortly if you want to try them. Day/night difference on my rear O2. (I have a switch on the fuel resistor bypass so I can easily change it back to stock and see if the O2 votlage is still good at luight throttle.)

3. Small amount of oil on intake tract is from turbo seals and crankcase gasses venting into intake during WOT. Oil leaking from bad VSS gets sucked directly into combustion chamger during intake stroke and directly into manifold at the end of the exhaust stroke.


Clint

[skunkworks]

Originally Posted by cbatters

Three things:
1. When you say leak are you referring to a fuel leak on the injectors or an air leak betwen the injector and the intake manifold. (My old injector/manifold bushings were as hard as rocks.)

If you remember what your injectors look like they are metal top (where the go into the fuel rail) and bottom (where the go into the intake). In between there is a plastic piece sandwitched (where the plug is). every one of the used ones I bought where leaking from between the metal and the plastic. I figured it was because they had not been used for a long time and maybe the plastic changed shape(dried out - I don't know).

Originally Posted by cbatters

2. I should end up with a set of serialized/cleaned/flow tested injectors shortly if you want to try them. Day/night difference on my rear O2. (I have a switch on the fuel resistor bypass so I can easily change it back to stock and see if the O2 votlage is still good at luight throttle.)

If they could fix my used injector I have a set too. As I stated above they leak from the body. well I should say I have 5 - I tried to take one apart to see if I could . I am not really worried right now about my injectors because my o2s look good and my hesitation is gone. I am more worried about the knock - the knock usually only happens when the o2s are cycleing normally. I don't think I have ever gotten knock when the o2s would dip for a second (when I used to get a hesitation).

BTW - I have a switch wired in too

Originally Posted by cbatters

3. Small amount of oil on intake tract is from turbo seals and crankcase gasses venting into intake during WOT. Oil leaking from bad VSS gets sucked directly into combustion chamger during intake stroke and directly into manifold at the end of the exhaust stroke.
Clint

Right now I have my rear valvecover vented to the atmoshire to see if I was still getting oil out of the rear intercooler line. I still am. So for sure my rear turbo is leaking a little bit. and I am sure I am getting vss oil into the combustion chamber.

I don't seem to smoke much though

sam

edit - thanks for the offer

[cbatters]

Originally Posted by skunkworks

If you remember what your injectors look like they are metal top (where the go into the fuel rail) and bottom (where the go into the intake). In between there is a plastic piece sandwitched (where the plug is). every one of the used ones I bought where leaking from between the metal and the plastic. I figured it was because they had not been used for a long time and maybe the plastic changed shape(dried out - I don't know).

Weird failure mode on the injectors. Have never heard of them leaking at that seam. I assumed that the injector was just pressed together with no seals or o rings. I have never taken one apart so I have no idea what they look like inside. (Shoot some pics if you get one apart.)

KNOCK
The knock that used to bother me was transitioning from light throttle at 3500-4000 RPM to WOT. With the new injectors and some oil additives, I am only getting 3-4 knock occasionally and a lot more pull. (Anxious to replace VSS to see if it gets rid of oil smell at idle, oil consumption and knock. I also think my plugs are burning whiter / hotter because of the VSS oil.)

Matter of fact, the car is pulling so much better now that I will need to move "new clutch" to the top of my priority list.


Clint

[skunkworks]

Originally Posted by cbatters

KNOCK
The knock that used to bother me was transitioning from light throttle at 3500-4000 RPM to WOT. With the new injectors and some oil additives, I am only getting 3-4 knock occasionally and a lot more pull. (Anxious to replace VSS to see if it gets rid of oil smell at idle, oil consumption and knock. I also think my plugs are burning whiter / hotter because of the VSS oil.)

Clint

My knock is usually below 3000 rpm like pulling away from a stop or speeding back up after turning down a sideroad. I get less knock if I keep the car in a lower gear and rev higher. Like I have said before I get no knock at wot

[leet]

I have a few questions just to make sure I read all of this right


What is EGRT


All I have to do is take the one wire from the middle plug (of the 3 plugs on the plenum) and splice it into the TPS wire, then wire the other 2 into the MAP sensor, then set the thing on MMCd to 3bar (or whatever size) and that's it?

is there any other wiring then those 3 wires?


this seems like a really cool, really useful simple mod, I am going to do this if it really is that easy


*edit*
ok I did read it wrong, 2 of the wires off of the middle plug go to the MAP sensor, then splice the third wire to the TPS sensor

I think I got it now, but some reassureance would be nice

[cbatters]

Originally Posted by l33t

I have a few questions just to make sure I read all of this right


What is EGRT


All I have to do is take the one wire from the middle plug (of the 3 plugs on the plenum) and splice it into the TPS wire, then wire the other 2 into the MAP sensor, then set the thing on MMCd to 3bar (or whatever size) and that's it?

is there any other wiring then those 3 wires?


this seems like a really cool, really useful simple mod, I am going to do this if it really is that easy


*edit*
ok I did read it wrong, 2 of the wires off of the middle plug go to the MAP sensor, then splice the third wire to the TPS sensor

I think I got it now, but some reassureance would be nice

EGRT = Exhaust Gas Recirculator Temperature

And yes it is a easy/slick mod!


Clint