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#41 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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To the lady of the thread, have you noticed that daiken (which is an OEM supplier to tons of jap cars and trucks) is the parent company of exedy. Also on a side note i once ordered a TRD clutch for a 7mgte supra and what came was a red painted valeo pressure plate and a daiken disc. The disc was completely stock but the plate was modified.
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#42 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Oh almost forgot i was going to add on to the sprung vs solid hub clutch. A sprung hub can break off in between the springs. They are designed to do that it is a fail safe feature on most late model cars to have that disc snap instead of something important like an input shaft. It's intended for if you are on wet pavement or gravel and your wheels are spinning and then suddenly grab to break the disc and not the tranny. OEM discs are obviuosly the easiest to break. I've seen hubs break out of late model ls1 camero's, lancer evo, and 6 speed VW beetle 1.8t with stock motors. The friction material was fine on all but at some point the clutch took some torque and broke. On the camero we put a centerforce in it that had a sprung hub but you could look at the hub and see it had bigger rivets and thicker steel instead of the potmetal the OEM LUK disc had. The Lancer Evo and the Beetle don't have affordable perfomance clutches yet so they went oem. So if possible when buying a performance clutch don't shy away completely from sprung hubs it is an nice CYOA (cover your own ass) feature but get a good look and compare the springs and the material holding the center of the hub to the outside where the friction material mounts and if it doesn't look any bigger or better DON'T BUY IT because it doesn't matter if you have 1000hp and the best pressure plate on the market if the center of the disc breaks your ride will be DOA. And BTW it will usually go after you've reved it up and dumped the clutch so theres a good chance it could happen when you really don't want it too ie. track, in front of girls, in front of friends, you know.
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#43 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Update 3000 miles later: Well, I killed this clutch. My fault though. I bought it already with 3000 miles on it, along with a fidanza with 50-60 miles on it. Gave it no break in time (I assumed 6 pucks didn't need one due to a non full face disk not needing to mate up with the pp). I still got about 30-40 launches out of it, some building 13 psi off the line at 6000 rpm using a 2step, and numerous pulls. It still drove fine up until I decided to pull it out because it wouldnt hold launches. I sent it to spec to get rebuilt and I am then throwing it back in. Cost for rebuild: $90!!!! Great price. Cost of rebuild on RPS street maxx: $220. Hmmm, I wonder whats a better deal? Overall, still satisfied with clutch.
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#44 (permalink) |
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Banned from Classifieds
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6000 miles is not bad on a 6 puck clutch on a performance vehicle. No matter what manufacturers say a 6 puck is not going to last as long as a full faced disk on a daily driver, unless you drive it perfect and never slip it. I decided to go with the stage2 because I wanted a longer life, pulling the tranny gets old really quick.
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#45 (permalink) |
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Just havin' fun!
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Mine better last more than 6k. So far this break in hasn't been as fun as I thought. This clutch is harder to get used to than I had expected. After 200 miles, almost wish I had gone with a stage2. But everyone said how streetable the stage3 is and it's holding power is awesome. Maybe my tune will change once I'm able to launch. However, city traffic isn't too fun right now.
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#46 (permalink) | |
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POLYCHRONOPOULOS
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Is your vacuum assist working for the clutch hydraulic setup?
Rob Quote:
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#47 (permalink) |
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Just havin' fun!
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The guy that installed my motor and new clutch/fw is a wiz with clutches, so I assume he hooked everything up right. Just seems tough to pull out into traffic nice and easy. I'm also breaking in a new motor at the same time, so I guess I might be a little parinoid of reving past 3500. Maybe it'll get better with time and me getting used to it...
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#48 (permalink) |
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Banned from Classifieds
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Not that it relates to SPEC but I had my fill of 6 puck clutches, my DXD was extremely easy to drive after it broke in, but I went through the first DXD in about 3k miles, the DXD-C in about 6k miles, and then upgraded to the in and the DXD-F seemed to hold up well, but i was going to part out my car and ended up selling the F and the flywheel with it, but I decided to go with the Spec because its got more of a beefed up pressure plate combined with that Kevlar disk.
But I got REALLY tired of pulling my tranny so much, that makes 5 times now!!! I am hoping this one will go for 20k Its nice to se ya got your car back on the road there Red I am gonna be within the next days as well(getting excited) Still running the phantoms?I wouldn't worry about revving past 3500, just don't redline it, and be sure to load up the rings so they seat good |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Just havin' fun!
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Glad to see you didn't get rid of your car and that it's almost done. I can relate to being excited about it. But those last few days seemed like a month!
Yeah, still have the Phantoms. I did have to have the turbines replaced though. But they look like new money now! Got the EWS from IPO, so I won't have THAT happen again - plus I got the fuel rail adapter to keep the rear rail nice and happy. Had the heads ported and polished too, and went with 92mm Wisecos. Just about half way with the break in. Can't wait to open her up a little. ![]() |
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#50 (permalink) |
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Banned from Classifieds
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Thats what I got too, Wiseco 92mm, NICE
I am so ready to drive this thing I can't even sleep at night. I have everything put together today w/o some of the FMIC piping and power distribution. It desperately needs a car wash too man, so much dust and dirt on her that its not even funny. |
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