IPS Shorty DP and 3" Single exhaust

[93VR4nPhilly]

Well...I'll start this thread by letting people know that the IPS 3" single exhaust will NOT bolt right up, if you currently have an ATR Downpipe, and you plan on eliminating the stock CAT...that is rather important, because I was originally told by IPS, that it would bolt up if I used a 3" test pipe. It did not, as the angle of the ATR downpipe will not allow you to bolt ANY straight pipe to the flange...at least not without the stock CAT...it will hit the floor pan. You're options: cut the downpipe back, and re-flange it. So after realizing this, I called Jeff, who assured me that the exhaust would bolt right up, if I went with a shorty downpipe....so I purchased an IPS downpipe.

The IPS shorty DP, eliminates the front pre-cat, but does so without a flex section. It's 2.5" piping at the pre-cat's, that goes to 3" for the main body of the DP, with a SS flex section before the main exhaust flange. It's finish looks pretty good, and the welds are decent. Get ready to work! The fit on this DP is not very good. They will say that they are all made in the same jig, and that if one fits, they should all fit, etc etc...I'm here to tell you that if you want to install this DP, you are going to put some work in. It seems as though the rear pre-cat flange was welded on slightly askew. If you have rusted studs, you may very well bend or strip the threads off of them, trying to get the DP flange holes over them....especially the rear pre-cat.

I wound up taking the DP off, and having to use a step bit to bore the flange holes out....even then, it was a PITA. The design and shape of this DP makes it unfriendly for installation. The passenger side nut of the rear pre-cat can barely be gotten to with a swivel socket, and you will torque up, and have to remove the socket and re-postion it after every 1/2 turn...it takes forever!
You better also have something you can hammer the flanges over the studs with, cause you will be doing a lot of that. With two guys, and a lift, it still took almost two hours to get this thing to fit.

Then I realize I will no longer have use of the fluid "check" hole on my Transfer case, as the DP is now pressed up on that side of the TC, and is actually touching it. I hope it holds up and doesn't damage either the DP or the TC. If it does, I will remove it, and drive to Ohio and throw the DP through someone's window. Bottom line on the DP: It seems okay once I got it to fit, but it's only been a day. I already noticed that it makes a terrible drone noise when I back out of my steep driveway. My guess is it's from hitting the TC, and under heavy load in reverse, it's rubbing. If you feel like spending $310 and breaking your balls to install it, and realizing that it's fit is poor, and it now rubs against you're transfer case....buy one.

How I'd improve it I'd weld a flat bar to it, as a hanger for the stock hanger location...much like the ATR has. I'd also make it like an ATR in that the very edges of the piping are rolled, and the flanges aren't acutally welded in place, but are free to move and rotate, so one has some flexibility while installing...then just press them in place and bolt them down...no hassle with flange fittment, bending, stripping, or breaking studs.

The exhaust itself: actually fit rather well, once I had the IPS downpipe. It's flanges run a bit close to my CFDS, which is scary. This could be a potential problem due to the fact that the exhaust only has a rear hanger welded to it...Add the fact that the DP has no hanger, and due to the flex section of the DP, the entire exhaust could potentially shift and the flanges would hit the driveshaft...OUCH! Because IPS had no Ti muffler's in stock, I opted for the stainless burnt tip muffler. It fits the piping really snug, and the SS sheet metal clamp they provide, seems to work well. The muffler has a hanger bar on it, but IMO, it's diameter is too small, leaving the hanger to move around inside the rubber too much...not too hard to fix really. The exit of the muffler on this exhaust is real nice. It comes out the left side on an angle, and is very "supra like."

The sound of the entire system Once I got it all together, I took it out for a few hours lastnight. I think I still hear the exhaust droning in my left ear...LMFAO. It's pretty loud once you go WOT, but keep in mind I have a testpipe and no main cat. It sounds good though, IMO. Again, it sounds very "supra like." It's definately louder than the ATR exhaust I had prior. It's not too bad under regular driving, but at WOT people will certainly hear you coming for them! Prolly not a great choice if you desire to remain "stealthy" or if you don't want the cops to hear you a mile away, on the highway at 2am. BTW: it DEFINATELY doesn't sound like rice!

How I'd improve it: I'd have to weld at least one more hanger to it...preferably in the middle, where it could sag or shift. I'd also include an option of having that little 6" bend in it, like the stock set up has right after the main cat, so it will clear the floor pan with ANY downpipe, and would work with no main cat and a test pipe.

***I didn't really write this to slam anyone, but rather to make sure that nobody else dick's themselves like I did, based on false information. I sold my ATR dual exhaust, thinking I was gonna just buy the IPS 3" single, and bolt it up to my ATR DP with a test pipe to eliminate the main cat, save weight, and save some extra dollars for other mod's. (based on what IPS told me) In the end, it didn't work out that way, as I wound up having to buy a new DP, and spend almost $700.00 anyways. For that kind of money, I'd have rather kept my ATR, or saved a bit more and bought a Tannabe dual system...Live and learn!

[93VR4nPhilly]

I now have a distinct clang when I first start my car up. It would seem that the torque of the motor through mounts, the trans, and the TC, hit's the DP that is resting against the side of the transfer case, making this irritating noise. It also does it when I shut the car off...it's a shame to have to say it, but the fit of this DP is piss poor, and I'd throw that jig out the fuckin window, and re-evaluate how to make this DP fit better in the future....worst part is, I'm pretty much stuck with it on there now...if I try to remove it, it will without a doubt, break, bend, or at least strip the threads off the studs.

[IPSjeff]

Originally Posted by 93VR4nPhilly

I now have a distinct clang when I first start my car up. It would seem that the torque of the motor through mounts, the trans, and the TC, hit's the DP that is resting against the side of the transfer case, making this irritating noise. It also does it when I shut the car off...it's a shame to have to say it, but the fit of this DP is piss poor, and I'd throw that jig out the fuckin window, and re-evaluate how to make this DP fit better in the future....worst part is, I'm pretty much stuck with it on there now...if I try to remove it, it will without a doubt, break, bend, or at least strip the threads off the studs.

First off, If you EVER have any issues on parts you have purchased from me (regardless of manufacturer) please call and make me aware of what the issues are. That being said, the only thing I would clear up was when you first asked about the Cat-back & Test-pipe working with the ATR I told you I had no clue as to how the ATR downpipe was designed. I might have had one customer car in here with an ATR before they went under and that car required zero exhaust work. I simply said that if it was designed similar to the Stillen that our cat-back would work fine (based on other customer feed-back). I dont get feed-back on every unit we sell, but by percentage basis, I would say close to 98% of it has been positive (since you and one other person had fitment issues). Coincidentally, both were "Shorty" versions -- even though they are both made off the same Jig. We have sold somewhere in the 100s which is why Im a little surprised to hear of any issues at this point that werent already reported on the first 5 or 6 local "guinea pig" test cars here.

I dont know how familar you are with the Stillen as it and the EK2 are the only other DPs Ive ever seen on customer cars here and thus the only other two we "Critiqued" when designing ours. Where the DP comes by the T-case there should be about 1/4" - 1/2" clearance. Yes, thats it.

I would say verify where the "clang" is coming from for sure and let me know. How are your motor and tranny mounts?

Call or email me and I will get back to you. I can send out another free of charge but if your complaint is that the DP is very close to the T-case I cant even send you a Stillen or DN that will cure that.
Jeff

[93VR4nPhilly]

Originally Posted by IPSjeff

I dont know how familar you are with the Stillen as it and the EK2 are the only other DPs Ive ever seen on customer cars here and thus the only other two we "Critiqued" when designing ours. Where the DP comes by the T-case there should be about 1/4" - 1/2" clearance. Yes, thats it.
I would say verify where the "clang" is coming from for sure and let me know. How are your motor and tranny mounts?

Call or email me and I will get back to you. I can send out another free of charge but if your complaint is that the DP is very close to the T-case I cant even send you a Stillen or DN that will cure that.
Jeff

It's all good and well, and seemingly simple to just jump right on the phone and call you on a Sunday evening, when my car is all ripped apart on a lift in some garage NOT my own. I don't mean to be a dick here, but the facts are: I had e-mailed IPS several times prior, about originally purchasing the exhaust, and some questions I had....got NO reply after a week and had to call. Then I e-mailed you another 4 times once I got the exhaust and realized it wouldn't work without swapping out my ATR DP...Another several days went by with NO reply, and I had to call you. You don't reply to e-mails so good...lol

I saw no point in calling you about the DP, as it was already drilled out and installed. I kind of figured I was just stuck with it. In essence, I just chose to make the DP fit the best I could, so I could get an exhaust on my car and get it home. There was no way in hell I was about to remove that DP, after all the BS we went through to get it on. I also feared snapping off or stripping the studs....that's how hard it was to get on, and how bad the angle is.

As for the DP being near the TC...it's ON the TC, and there is no way to rectify it, without bending the shit out of the DP. It literally rests on the TC at all times...so I don't see what my mounts have to do with anything, really....It made no noise before, but now it makes the distinct sound of a hollow, thin walled tubing which echoes sound. It's definately because it's on my TC, and when the motor or tranny torques a bit (like on the hill of my driveway where I park it) it vibrates against the TC like hell, as I back up the driveway. It also does it when I shut the car off after it's hot, and when I start the car hot.

If it where at least a 1/4 inch away from the TC this wouldn't be an issue, just as my ATR never "clanged" the TC. As for my review...I called it like it was, and that's it. I don't think I slammed you or your product much, nor do I feel it was a totally negative review. I mean, other then those issues, it works great so far. There is ALWAYS room to improve any product, and that's a part of what reviews are for.
I suggest that you check the fitment every so many batches, and maybe re-check the jig every so often, just to be sure.

I don't think it's anyone fault per se, but rather just something that happens every now and again. I guess the only way I can get the DP away from my TC, is to replace it with one that fits better. Then I'd have to convince my bro in law to get it back up on his lift and undue all the nuts that he broke his balls trying to get on tight, while trying not to break the studs off, for the better part of 90 minutes....he's just going to love that!

As for being told I could still use my ATR DP: What you claim to have stated in your reply of this review, rings a bell to me....perhaps I misunderstood what you were saying originally...shit happens, and I apologize if I wrongly accused IPS of telling me that.

What do you suggest I do now, Jeff? I would like to keep the 3" single exhaust and the test pipe, so whatever alternative there is, I'd prefer that it fit in place, so I can keep the rest intact. I'd just have to get up enough moxxy to want to tangle with removing it again, and hoping the threads and the studs hold up... I'm not looking forward to that. Feel free to message me when and if you decide on an alternative means. Thanks!

[IPSjeff]

Originally Posted by 93VR4nPhilly

I don't think it's anyone fault per se, but rather just something that happens every now and again. I guess the only way I can get the DP away from my TC, is to replace it with one that fits better. Then I'd have to convince my bro in law to get it back up on his lift and undue all the nuts that he broke his balls trying to get on tight, while trying not to break the studs off, for the better part of 90 minutes....he's just going to love that!

As for being told I could still use my ATR DP: What you claim to have stated in your reply of this review, rings a bell to me....perhaps I misunderstood what you were saying originally...shit happens, and I apologize if I wrongly accused IPS of telling me that.

What do you suggest I do now, Jeff? I would like to keep the 3" single exhaust and the test pipe, so whatever alternative there is, I'd prefer that it fit in place, so I can keep the rest intact. I'd just have to get up enough moxxy to want to tangle with removing it again, and hoping the threads and the studs hold up... I'm not looking forward to that. Feel free to message me when and if you decide on an alternative means. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. If the DP is actually TOUCHING the T-case there is something wrong. I will happily ship you a second DP free of charge to eliminate the chance that for whatever reason you just got one "off" by a little bit somehow. I called and left a message yesterday so if you would like to call me to let me know what you want to do I will be here all day

Oh, and you can email as well. Staffing has been bumped up again so I typically respond to emails within an hour now
Jeff

[93VR4nPhilly]

Originally Posted by IPSjeff

Thanks for the reply. If the DP is actually TOUCHING the T-case there is something wrong. I will happily ship you a second DP free of charge to eliminate the chance that for whatever reason you just got one "off" by a little bit somehow. I called and left a message yesterday so if you would like to call me to let me know what you want to do I will be here all day

Oh, and you can email as well. Staffing has been bumped up again so I typically respond to emails within an hour now
Jeff

Sorry, but I have been quite busy at work lately, and haven't had the time to give you a buzz. I'll try to e-mail you, so we can work something out. Thanks again Jeff!

[Blitzkid]

just to put this out there, I have one of the IPS full sized downpipes and it fits perfectly. Install took maybe 2 hours, with most of that time going to removing my rusted on stocker. The IPS downpipe fits like a glove and now I can put it on and take it off by myself in 10 minutes.(which I had to do during my turbo swap) great product.

Not trying to thread jack, just trying to give additional feedback, also Jeff's customer service has been top notch.

[KoRnboy]

Sorry but are there any sound clips yet? Idle, Drive by, WOT? ... I want this exhaust but I'm curious as to how it will sound.

[93VR4nPhilly]

JEFF: I sent you an e-mail via the IPS website.