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#21 (permalink) | |
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Regulator...
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more updates... Basically done with the install.
These are very similar to DNP. I dont have the dnp manifolds but i have had enough dnp products to say this. They def arent perfect. Your going to need to work to get these on. For the manifolds. They seem fine welding, no leaking, come with big gaskets. The top speeds were flat. Might want to have them flattened for peace of mind to get a perfect seal. Do the turbo side also. Make sure you do the work to keep the factory bracing. Otherwise i cans see cracks ensuing. Esp with solid motor mounts(i bet this is like dnp). I actually have 2 spare turbos. I had to use one of those(clocked higher) to clear the one motor mount. The other side is just a hair off the motor mount. And be preparred to grind off exhaust studs and fight a little getting these on. I had to forgoe a washer on one. All in all if they work they are worth the money(est time fudging with them is prob 3-4 hours with no experience). Expect to pay a little to have these flattened and buy some extra bolts where needed. As for the precat elims... well as the manifolds "moved" the turbos slightly you can expect these to be off. The front is about 3/4 inch moved forward but appears fairly in line. The rear i will cut and extend. Since i have a e2k downpipe i cant rotate the clamp to bolt right up so i cut that and will rotate it. Est work needed (1-2 hours plus welding cost/clamps etc). My DNP's on factory manifolds were like 1/2 off. Make sure you have a flex joints on your downpipes. People claim these crack but i would bet they dont use the factory bracing. Also... doing this in the car would be a hell of a fight. Some motor mount griding ensues so your not getting a grinder behind the engine in the car. Ill do another final review about performance/long term use later.
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#23 (permalink) |
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Regulator...
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ive got them in, no cracking so far. I am having a 02 issue though so I havent gotten to drive them much.
When i did drive it, it ran like a raped ape. Not sure if its the rebuild or the full free flowing exhaust. Once I get it together ill verify. |
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#24 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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i got this set from a friend of mine, kinda the same, he claimed they were DNP, but when i didnt see the tags on the manifolds, i knew immediately...
anyways, i noticed on my front man. that one hole was too far out (manifold to turbo) and you could only start one bolt (the closest one to the head) and the third hold was too close to start a nut... im kinda curious to see if you have any other tips, im probably gonna take them to a shop and have them grind it smooth on both parts, then take my spare set of turbos and have them redrill the hole to get it mounted... as for the rear, i too noticed the lower row inside 2 studs needed to be ground down, but for me, it seemed like 1/4" or more i wish i had pictures, but i was in a rush and just took it to a shop to put it back |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Someone else's mistakes
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I have these and sum total to install them(with the engine in the car) was 35 hrs.
. I had to grind studs, replace manifold gaskets. I could use one of the braces for the downpipe to rear pre cat eliminator. All other braces seemed to fit with some coaxing. I have had them for about 8 months now. REar manifold cracked, but was not leaking due to the fact it was welded on the inside too. I rewelded it in the car and has been okay since. I really don;t notice much of a power change. Probably were NOT worth the effort. I would reccomend ceramic coating them because the stainless will look like crap in an hour or two.
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DR650R's, supra fuel pump hotwired and aem fuel pressure regulator with bob beck adapter, addicted performance front mount intercooler and piping, ceramin coated inside and out, ebay knockoff DN headers, cusom stillen downpipe, Borla catback, precision turbo 550cc injectors, RPS MAX series clutch, street disc, and RPS segmented aluminum flywheel, 3sx braided stainless turbo feed and return lines, 3sx braided clutch line, fidanza adjustable cam gears, arc2 fuel controller with ford MAS, greddy E-manage blue for fine tuning and timind control, Greddy profec E-01 for boost control, AEM widemand O2, arm-1 narrow band o2, autometer boost gauge, HKS ssqv with custom recirc adapter, 3sx fuel rail adapter.
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#28 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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So has anyone actually had a good experience with these ebay manifolds? Did everyone have to do some grinding and what not to get these things to fit
? What do you mean you had to grind them flat? Were the flanges not flat in the first place? How much does something like that cost? |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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When I put the manifold against the head it rocked back and forth, so I took the straight edge we use to check cylinder heads and laid it on manifold. WOW not a flat flange to be found. Cost me about $60 to have them repaired. I was fitting mine on an engine stand. I feel sorry for anyone doing it in the car. Maybe my set was worse than everyone's but after grinding , machining and chopping studs I finnaly had them bolted to engine. Now the turbos wont bolt up. More griding and slotting. Both turbos on almost there , cut ,chop , slot braces. Now the rear pre-cat eliminator wont fit. Throw away rear header and install factory manifold. And how much HP was I going to gain? How long before the front one cracks and I get to do it all over again? A wise man told me to have my stock manifold that was cracked welded or to find a used one. His car is a lot faster than mine. I wished I would have listened to him. Mine had no warranty because I bought them second hand off e-bay. Now I know why he sold them. Mitch
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#30 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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You can make the rear precat eliminator fit. mine didn't fit but I took the manifold with a spare turbo to the exhaust shop and the made it work for about $70. I have the dnp replicas by the way. Might take pictures...my engine is also on the stand.
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