My point was why are you attempting to give advice when you have built nothing That even remotely resembles your therories. AS if you have some experiance. HOw meny TT projects are you working on at this time? How many have you done? Have you ever built a 3000GT NA that could out run stock and slighly modied TT cars? HOw many differant intake set ups have you designed and tesed. See when People like "RealMcCoy" key up.
You can bet "he has been there, done that" and most likely knows what he is talking about. So when people take his advice, thier ride will most likely prosper and in a predictable manner... HOwever, If people un-knowingly take your advice, they would never meet their automotive expectations and and goals and become to believe that Mitsus are junk like and unreliable and a waste of time. Just sayin.
I ran 272's for 2 years before getting my Adjustable cam gears. Even back when we where playing with endurance cam profiles. We did not have adjustable Cam gears atthat time. In your responce to the OP asking about them, You told him he HAD to get the adjuable cam gears to see any imprrovement. Don't recall your exact words. But you where wrong. I know. Because I have been there and back. Degreeing your cams allows you to alter slightly your torque curve and promote better flow charicturistics of the entire engine package. All depends on what the hell your requirements are of the motor. As far as belt ware on the cam gears do to high lift cams. There you are silly again. The only thing that we have seen so far is the damage was from some blue kev belts that had worn hard on cam saddles Do to there stiffness. Not a lift issue. In fact a local engine builder here in Dallas will NOT install them for any reason on the G672. It the u-turn on our G672 block at the water pump tends to load heavy the 2 intake cams saddles. Other blocks Vs like the 3.5 is larger so less prone to damage from stiff belts. But I saw no reason for him to stay stock TT cams if he was wishing to try something else. I did not know for sure he was going turbo. But I did assume so as this is that thread. Dah. But I was not for sure Because he (the OP) was asking about, now LIsten up hear, " TT cams in an NA head?". So I had to assume a TT front wheel drive, and high compression to boot. Well ahead of ya there budy. I am truly sorry that I dislike the advice you give and believe it to be counter productive to those that wish to be productive. There are plenty of way to make power. If my car makes boosted power just being NA, what the hell do you think would happen if I turbo it at stock VR4 boost levels. I couldn't even get to stock boost levels with 9Bs as my motor out flows them. They would never keep up. Be nothin but hot air. Just be a restiction. Every single thing we did to our car was step be step. And with lessens learned.
Did I see a difference be tween 3.0 maft and 3.5 Maft? (The 3.5s are really 4 inch by the way) You bet I did. Do I believe the OP should too? You bet I do. You told him NO. I think he should concider a larger throttle body with it. But that never really came up yet.
Again I am sorry for not liking your responce and having to key up and say so. And I am truley fine with you not liking my post. I am just not fine with sending other down bad path. Do me a favor though, do Stick to your old Chevy V8 ideas and peddle them elsewhere like on the Honda forum.
OBX long tube headers, Flow master single 3" in with dual 2.5 outs. VR4 runners with 2 liter plenum, port matched lower intake, stage 3 or better race preped heads with 1 mm oversize Rev valves, Rev race dual springs and Rev keepers, Delta/HKS 272 cams, 3SX adjustable cam gears, 3.0 Cobra Mustang Throttle body, 3.0 LT1 maft and Maftranslater gen II, Alum. Flywheel, Spec stage 5 clutch, VR4 injectors, Wizard wires, Unorthadox under drive. IPS fuel rails w/adj FPR, Fuel loop, Walboro 255 hot wired, Hot wired single fan. Short shifter, Battery relocate. EBC front slotted rotors, EBC Yellow stuff Pads, 3SX SST brake lines, sway bars, springs.
No IAC, NO AC, NO extra weight, VR4 ECU as of NG2011. Still 10 to 1 slugs, Nitto NT05 Comptition Road Course Racing tires. Magan coil overs, 3sx adjustable rear links.
1st place fastest NA - TXG 2012. 1ST place highest hp NA-240 FWHP TXG-2012. 1st place fastest NA - Drag - TXG 11 98mph, 1st place quickest NA - drags 14.773, 1st place Dyno - TXG11 229 FWHP & 236 tq, 2ND place Auto cross NA C/S- NG2011, 1ST place NA dyno - TX gathering 2010 - 229 FWHP & 199 tq, 1st place Fastest NA - TXG 2010 - 98.3 trap, 1st Place quickest NA - TXG 2010 - 14.680, 2ND place 1/4 at NG10, best NA time NG10 - 14.932- no traction, 2ND place 1/4 at NG09,
2ND place Autocross NG09
Interesting conversation... I had never heard about your RAM, GTWizard! I would like to know everything you are willing to tell me about it since I have an AWD N/A... Is there a thread or other place where I can read about your build? Thanks beforehand!
Not much to tell. Everything that has been done to the car or the motor is in my sig or photos. Watch the Video of our dyno (way back when) towards the end of the NA bible. The ram will do nothing for an unmodified motor. Our performance levels are so high you would not wish to do what we have done. This is NOT a fun car to drive. Our car is an assault weapon. That is what it is for. Nothing more.
Do to the weight of your AWD car, this is not a path I would recommend for you. You Need to go TT if looking for better drivability and better performance. You at 3800 lbs and I 2800 lbs is 2 differant worlds. The performance Charicturistics of our ride is not something you wish to drive to work. (unless you are late) LOL. If I where you, I would be looking at something like Rob Beck 13Ts with a CXracing front mount FMIC. That makes for a very clean and in expensive set up. Performance levels can be mild to wild with that set up. Bang for the buck, do the TT's.
Nice car by the way. Don't do what I did. Your car is way to civilized for this.
I believe everyone here has some points. But I do know that a ram air intake does work. and i know that to get the best performance from ANY cam you need adjustable cam gears. this car will be a sweet ride. I have a 4 bolt 3.5 with a forged crank, the heads are being ported as we speak, and the upper intake has been opened up for a 70mm throttle body the exhaust will be for the moment stock manifolds till I do the turbos, but will be true duel exhaust to the rear bumper with no cat and a true X pipe. the megasquirt fuel management system uses a MAP not a MAS so that isn't an issue. I will have to get the car running in N/A form first for tuning purposes. then add the twins later due to lack of funds now. both the N/A points I need and the turbo points I need!!!LOL
Do be carfull with the 70mm throttle body. If it's a CXracing body, they don't work. They are worth more as scrap. You can use any throttle body out there. You don't need to worry about 3 wire body even though ours is 4 wire. That's easy enough to deal with, for you should be easy with Mega squirt. Same goes for the IAC. Through ours in the trash. Takes an extra minute or so to get the car to idle when cold. But not bad.
Keep us posted.
GTwizard: Are you saying we can use another IAC with a different throttle body that is "plug and play?" Or are you saying to unplug the stock one and leave it like that? I didn't think the car would run like that. A bad IAC will mess up an ECU. Will having no IAC also mess up the ECU?
Modifications as of 11/12/13:
3.01L, 0.020" pistons, forged crank, NA block, 13T turbos, K&N intake, CX Racing pre turbo pipes, SS Y-pipe, CX Racing oil cooler (mounted in front), SS oil cooler lines, SS oil feed lines, DNP precat deletes, ESP downpipe, test pipe, DSM SMICs, Ninja Performance boost controller, vacuum reduction, RPS Max Street, drilled/slotted rotors, Depo Racing gauges, custom leather seats, and MMCdroid OBDI-Bluetooth datalogging adapter. Everything built and done by me. As always, more to come soon.
Currently on the shelf: KYB GR-2 struts, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, ARC-2, 450cc injectors.
the 70mm TB is an aftermarket one that is race only ( I had to do some seals for the sides! vac leak.). no IAC in it. the ile is set like a carb does...... a set screw! this motor is for fun only not a DD. it will see drag time and cruz time too. and a few car shows. it should be a LOT of fun!!!!
I started running no IAC back when I had tuning problems and swapping things around. I borrowed an ECU and did not wish to take the chance on having a bad IAC, so ran with out. With out one, will run with out codes. Tuning to run with out is up to you.
I have no AC, so never have a need for idle air boost. No auto matic trans, so don't ned it for that. The only thing left would have been for Powersteering drag. I'm inder drive, so need for that as well. And if you read through the fuel ijection section of the manual, wiring a 3 wire throttle body is cake. Just need an idle switch mounted external for idle possition recognition. LIke this.
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