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#1 (permalink) |
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BLUNTSIDER
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Well guys, I'm almost done collecting parts that I need to do a conversion. There's going to be some rough times ahead. I've decided that my daily driver while my car is going under the knife would be my 1988 RX-7 T2 (this car is a headache, but no choice).
Basically, I have everything (I think) that I need in terms of info. Bob the Great's site along with Mr.3000's and everyone else's contribution to this forum. I have a 1994 base 3000GT and these are my current mods: -ACT H/D clutch (1k miles) -Eibach pro-kit springs (1.5 front/1.3 rear) -NGK plugs & wires -underdrive lightweight aluminum pulley I could've waited to put in the clutch but I had no choice since the OEM clutch was already slipping really bad. I've searched the forums for information, but in regards to the fuel delivery, everyone seems to have their own forte. So here are some questions that's been bothering me. 1.) What is the safest boost with the 10:1 compression? I've seen up to 8 psi with the stock 10:1 compression but I don't know how safe this is in regards to the 3.0 displacement. Which brings me to another question. 2.) How do I hotwire the fuel pump? Seems like I can't find a thread about this method and there are some facts that supports this to safely boost with the N/A engine, just don't know how to do it. 3.) How reliable is the GM MAF-T? Is this a good alternative besides the S-AFC II? I've been debating about this since I don't think I want to mess with the S-AFC just yet. 4.) I have a cali-spec car, are there any differences with the fed-spec 1G TT ECU method done by Mr.3000? Yep, I guess this would be obvious, but I just need to confirm it since the N/A cali-spec already has 2 O2 sensors running on the pre-cats, I guess I don't need to splice the harness? Any advise to any of these questions will be greatly appreciated and as such, I will inform of any updates.
__________________
"I will beat you like my momma beats eggs for breakfast!!"
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