My TT Project 56K No...

[Mr.3000]

Originally Posted by 3000hybrid

Your always going to have those little problems like leaks with such an extensive mod like that. Man, that exhaust is sexy LOL! You have done a hell of a job, don't get depressed over the little stuff. Pat yourself on the back! Remember the more power you make the more problems your going to have.

Thanks so much man. I really appreciate your encouragement. It just helps to have that little bit of encouragement from somebody who's been through a similar situation...haha.....Yea when the exhaust guy finished hooking up the exhaust the way I wanted I was like "Dang that looks good...so much better than my NA exhaust".
NEW TT 3" EXHAUST:


OLD NA 2.5" EXHAUST:


Haha..now I just have to muster up enough strength and will power to get the rest of the project done. Peace for now..

[3000hybrid]

LOL- just get her running descent- then be very patient with getting the tune correct. My suggestion is to be conservative and not get too cocky with the tune. I got cocky and melted my #4 piston hehe! My 11:4-11:5 AFR was a beast-- yes it was alittle rich with meth, but perfect on pump gas. I felt alittle indestructable and leaned it to 12:2 on meth-- bye bye motor! (90 octane piss water sucked even with meth LOL). Patients and knowing when to call it good enough will save you more money than geico can brotha.

[Mr.3000]

Hahaha yea at idle last night it was about 11.5-12. As soon as I drove it it (to put it in the garage) it went up to like 15.1 then to 18 then I got - - -. Yea I don't even want to drive my car like this haha. I have 93 octance, what should I be aiming for when I tune it?

[3000hybrid]

Optimum is 14.7 or so idle/cruising. It will fluctuate some, but it's no problem as long as it's like 14.5 thru 15.0. It's super hard to get a perfect 14.7. Aim for 11.4 to 11.5 WOT on 93 octane.Watch for knock! Running rich will lower knock but you are still robbing the car of power. I was at 10.0 or below at first at WOT. By the time I leaned it to 11.0 the car was picking up a whole lot of power and turbos spooled alot faster. Running too rich kills gas mileage and power/hides knock-- running too lean will melt internals. If you can get it down to around 11.0 with no knock you will be very happy and still be very very safe.

First decide the boost you want to run- log a run- check for knock and AFR at WOT- if no knock lean the tune slighly- repeat until you have your target AFR with no knock- if you get knock lower boost and watch AFR-Log WOT again until your happy repeating the steps- Zero knock is safe- leaner AFR is more power. I don't think you have timing control so this is the most you can do at the moment for a descent tune.

[Wildarmz]

Originally Posted by Mr.3000

Hahaha yea at idle last night it was about 11.5-12. As soon as I drove it it (to put it in the garage) it went up to like 15.1 then to 18 then I got - - -. Yea I don't even want to drive my car like this haha. I have 93 octance, what should I be aiming for when I tune it?

Pressure test before you get into tuning, if you haven't already

[Mr.3000]

Originally Posted by Wildarmz

Pressure test before you get into tuning, if you haven't already

Yea I am doing all my leak checks/fixes etc today then trying to tune.

Originally Posted by 3000hybrid

Optimum is 14.7 or so idle/cruising. It will fluctuate some, but it's no problem as long as it's like 14.5 thru 15.0. It's super hard to get a perfect 14.7. Aim for 11.4 to 11.5 WOT on 93 octane.Watch for knock! Running rich will lower knock but you are still robbing the car of power. I was at 10.0 or below at first at WOT. By the time I leaned it to 11.0 the car was picking up a whole lot of power and turbos spooled alot faster. Running too rich kills gas mileage and power/hides knock-- running too lean will melt internals. If you can get it down to around 11.0 with no knock you will be very happy and still be very very safe.

First decide the boost you want to run- log a run- check for knock and AFR at WOT- if no knock lean the tune slighly- repeat until you have your target AFR with no knock- if you get knock lower boost and watch AFR-Log WOT again until your happy repeating the steps- Zero knock is safe- leaner AFR is more power. I don't think you have timing control so this is the most you can do at the moment for a descent tune.

Yea I want to run 10psi but we will see. Is it just better to get a decent tune first at 6 or so and then just bump up the psi after getting a good base tune? That's what I was thinking about doing instead of going all the way to 10 and then trying to tune from there....still gotta fix all my leaks first lol.

[3000hybrid]

Originally Posted by Mr.3000

Yea I want to run 10psi but we will see. Is it just better to get a decent tune first at 6 or so and then just bump up the psi after getting a good base tune? That's what I was thinking about doing instead of going all the way to 10 and then trying to tune from there....still gotta fix all my leaks first lol.

That sounds good to me- remember as you increase boost you will run leaner. So keep a slightly fat tune that runs descent-- Like about 10:8 AFR then bump the boost one PSI at a time until you get to around 11:0 to 11:1 or target boost- which ever comes first. Then carefully lean the car out to your target AFR or richen it up if you are too lean and you haven't quite hit your target boost. This is a really safe way to tune. It takes a lot of patience to do it right and not blow anything up. I would also be really careful with 13T turbos- they have no problem boosting 20 psi . If your boost controller takes a crap or you accidently set it too high it could boost or just spike easily into dangerous territory on a 10:1 car. I assure you, you will be pleased with your car at just 8 psi . 10psi will be nuts for torque on that CR.

[Mr.3000]

UPDATE 13 - (6/28/07)

Well...once again I'm screwed by this project. Yesterday, I decided to investigate my oil leaks. I thought I knew where they were coming from and thought that I was just going in there to fix the problems. So yea I "thought" that the oil was leaking from the TT oil pressure sending unit and adapter. Well that is not the case. Infact, it is leaking from the little unit that is right next to it on the block. I don't even know what the part is called let alone it's part number so I can order another one from Mitsubishi. I guess the problem occurred when I was removing it from the block to gain access to the NA oil pressure sending unit and adapter to replace it with the TT one. I had put this piece back in the dark and thus, thought that it was tight. Since it wasn't tight, it had been leaking oil like a mad man from that spot the whole time.

After, trying unsuccessfully to screw the thing back into the block for about 10 mins. I decided to back it out and see what the problem was....well I had mysteriously managed to bend the stud so that it was bent at an angle at about the halfway mark. Ofcourse, this meant that it was not going to go back into the block. So now my car is sitting on block while I wait on an exhaust gasket that z32_aaron so graciously sent me to fix the exhaust leak and as I try to find out what part I broke. Anybody know what this part is. Here are the pics:








If someone could tell me what part that is and or what the part number is for it that would be greatly appreciated. Until then my DD will sit up on jackstands lol. So much for ironing on the bugs in this project. Until I get that part, I can't fix the fuel line leak or any other problems really for that matter. Well this is me signing off for now. Thanks for all the support....ugh this just makes me so mad....

[J-Groove]

That is your stock oil pressure unit. As for the part number though I have no idea.

-john

[3000hybrid]

It's called the oil pressure sender Bro.