I've been running my supercharger for several years now with only minor belt problems that I have eventually worked out, but I have always hated the TK designed manifold. It had high back pressure and a low air flow rate due to a desire to make the manifold fit under the hood without modification. It also caused the air charge to heat up. You would burn your hand touching the top of the manifold.
From day one I anticipated modifying the manifold so I cut open my hood and stuck a Mustang hood scoop on it to cover the hole before it was painted. I just now got around to doing the manifold.
I made a template of what I thought the manifold should be and took it to a local Fab Shop. They did a great job of creating what I visualized. I just hope the hp, torque, top end and air charge temps improve. I am also going install a bypass valve between the intake air side of the supercharger to the pressure side of the manifold to take the load off of the supercharger during cruising and decelleration. I am anxious to see how this works.
It will be several weeks before car is together. I also pulled the transmission to fix a seam leak (repair completed).
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Black 1993 Stealth RT/TT and a Red 1994 Supercharged Base 3000GT:
Last edited by Beau_Jester; 01-08-2013 at 06:26 PM.
Here are some more pics. I installed the bypass valve. I hope it all works out.
Oops. Just realized I have the bypass valve intake and exhaust ports reversed. Gotta fix that.
FYI. If anyone needs custom pulleys made try ASP Performance in Texas. Great service and prices plus they keep your pulley profile on record for future orders. Several pulleys retailers have this comapny make their pulleys.
Last edited by Beau_Jester; 01-15-2013 at 03:06 AM.
FYI. If anyone needs custom pulleys made try ASP Performance in Texas. Great service and prices plus they keep your pulley profile on record for future orders. Several pulleys retailers have this comapny make their pulleys.
That's funny, I got an underdrive pulley for my 4banger S10 from them a few years ago. Top quality stuff and good people.
Love to see pics installed and if you get some improvement. Looks nice!
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1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - RED
Mods - Palm Datalogger, gutted kitties, full vacuum reduction/emissions delete, clutch vacuum canister delete, XTD Stage 3 clutch, leaky turbo mod, boost leak mod, yard ornament mod. Coming soon! - 120k maintenance, MBC, hotwired 255, AEM FPR, IPS downpipe and test pipe, TGE cam gears, ARC2. Oh, and a real stereo system...
I finished what will probably be my final supercharging experiment. The supercharger is installed and I am getting 10-11psi boost in 1-2 gear while accelerating. I haven't opened it past 2nd gear or for any long runs.
I also installed a 1994 VR4 engine harness and 1994 federal TT ECU and removed my NA ECU with SAFC II. I also installed the fuel relay and resistor but kept the NA fuel pressure regulator. I am running a Walbro FP without hotwire.
The car runs as close to a stock VR4 as far as I can tell except with instant low end torque. It is too easy to break traction on the front wheels. It idles fine and the AFRs all look good at 14.7-15.0 just cruising. On full throttle they go to 13.0 and a little less.
I have logged only an occasional 2-4 counts of knock. My last couple of 2nd gear pulls logged no knock under acceleration. The 8:1 pistons really helped there. It will probably lack top end and lose to a stock VR4, but I don't know yet.
I made an error in calculating the height of the new intake plenum. The top of the plenum is about 1/4" to tall. It cracked my fake Mustang hood cowel when I closed the hood kind of hard. I need to find one a little taller now.
All in all, I can't wait to get it on the track.
Last edited by Beau_Jester; 04-27-2013 at 08:41 AM.
I have been getting CELs recently for the O2 sensor after hard pulls with the TT ECU and engine harness. I only have the NA O2 sensor and it is jumpered to one of the O2 connections. I resolved this issue first jumpering the two O2 sensor signal wires by the ECU connection so both inputs see a signal (same signal source but since I am not using turbos the AFRs should be close to the same off both left and right cylinder banks anyway). I also determined I had the polarity incorrect coming from the O2 sensor. I reversed pins 1 and 2 from the O2 sensor and all is well. I may have only needed to swap the pins and not parallel the O2 sensor inputs, but it works. 10.9 AFRs at 11psi boost near redline.
Last edited by Beau_Jester; 05-18-2013 at 03:53 PM.
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