Also note that you have a 2G Hannibal. There will be some differences in the wiring there. It's not something I've bothered to look into. Perhaps not as many modifications are needed for 2g n/a --> 2g TT.
Yes, I did. It burned my ECU. One of the pins in the TT ECU is a ground assignment. If you do not modify the wiring, a powered wire (starter relay signal wire) will be plugged into that ground assigment, which will pop the ECU. You will still be able to drive it, but some of the functions (in my case my TPS sensor was not functioning correctly as a result) will not be working properly.
If this was just something I experienced in a freak accident, it still would not work properly since your timing would be at around 5 degrees like mine was for so long. Log your car like that next time and see if you have similar timing.
Gotcha. So to clarify the post below, you cut pin #71 and grounded out the ECU side. You then spliced the sensor side to a different pin on the ECU? Do you happen to remember what the pin # was? From the looks of things, I'm guessing it was pin #51: Ignition Switch_ST.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTyla
It is imperative that you cut the starter relay signal wire! This wire goes into a pin in the TT ECU designated for a chassis ground, and you will short out that pin if you do not cut this wire! Note that I left the park/neutral position switch wire alone. This wire is now going into an input in the TT ECU designated for the starter relay signal. The car will still start as normal. Without the p/n position wire going into this input, the car will have very erratic timing when you shift into drive. I learned this the hard way, and it took me weeks to figure out the reason behind it.
Also note that you have a 2G Hannibal. There will be some differences in the wiring there. It's not something I've bothered to look into. Perhaps not as many modifications are needed for 2g n/a --> 2g TT.
The two NA harnesses are actually pretty similar. I leaving a number of the wires in tact though (ie. WG solenoid, induction control, ActiveEx, and reduce torque request wires.) If I trigger any DTCs, then I'll address the wires as needed.
Gotcha. So to clarify the post below, you cut pin #71 and grounded out the ECU side. You then spliced the sensor side to a different pin on the ECU? Do you happen to remember what the pin # was? From the looks of things, I'm guessing it was pin #51: Ignition Switch_ST.
Gotcha. So to clarify the post below, you cut pin #71 and grounded out the ECU side. You then spliced the sensor side to a different pin on the ECU? Do you happen to remember what the pin # was? From the looks of things, I'm guessing it was pin #51: Ignition Switch_ST.
so you splice the cut wire from pin71(harness side) into pin51(ECU side)?
__________________
1991 Twin Turbo ATX with TT ECU I do not know what weapons will be used in WW3, but I do know that WW4 will be fought with sticks and stones. - Albert Einstein.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Re: How to use a TT ECU in your TT ATX
One of the pins in the TT ECU is a ground assignment. If you do not modify the wiring, a powered wire (starter relay signal wire) will be plugged into that ground assigment, which will pop the ECU. You will still be able to drive it, but some of the functions (in my case my TPS sensor was not functioning correctly as a result) will not be working properly.
