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#31 (permalink) |
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My car whines!!
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MAF is a mass air flow sensor, it tells your computer how much air is being drawn into your engine. Its located in the air horn of your throttle body. Intake air is drawn through it. MAP is manifold air pressure (intake). It tells the computer how much air that is being drawn into your engine by determining the pressure in your intake manifold. In short, both are telling the ECU basically the same thing.
As I mentioned earlier, I really think the root of my problem is the air intake pressure of which the AFC NEO should be able to rectify.
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#34 (permalink) |
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My car whines!!
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So far I have some great suggestions worthy of investigating but I am still on the knowledge prowl. I must be the only one in the world with this setup....surely not! If you know anyone that has this same setup, ask them to to get in touch with me.
Thanks guys! |
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#35 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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i know what your on about , i have a m90 magnum powers ported s/c feeding a fmic ,with water met injection just before a custom plenum , the s/c mount and the plenum are not connected , map sensor ,no maf ,with a bespoke ecu ,hydra system that is set up to pump a dose of fuel in on pulling up to stop stalling , i think with maybe 2.5-3 metre from s/c to plenum you need to cope with a pressure drop on throttling back with no load , s/c also has a bypass valve from an evo ,none on my s/c ,which i believe helps as well
personaly i do not think oe electronics work well with this kind of mod and if we go this far why not look at a stand alone system cheers jerry [uk] |
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#36 (permalink) | |
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My car whines!!
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Quote:
I am not familiar with the "hydra system" that is set up to pump a dose of fuel in on pulling up to stop stalling. That may resolve my problem. Can you send me some info? -Garrie |
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#37 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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hi there , i,m no electronics expert and i dont want to tell anybody how to suck eggs , but for me with stand alone ecu the car can be mapped as it stands your not trying to mislead an oe system , as i understand it ,slow running is one of the hardest parts to get right and some add on controllers etc may leave that to the oe ecu , with a bespoke system set up perhaps on a rolling road or driving on the open road , using sensors normaly added for this [air fuel mix temperatures etc ] fuel trims can be set to cope with slow running ,idle etc , this could be done throughout the rev range ,you might for example be able to increase top end power ,but loose mid range , its about getting the best balance for the car across the way it will be driven , a good tuner with a rolling road should be able to sort this , he should also be able to get the most boost ,make sure there is no nock [running lean ] set up ignition to its best , and more depending on his skill and flexibility of the ecu
the hydra system i chose was because i liked the guys and he wanted to use oe crank and cam sensors , it comes from the us and i believe its used a lot on imprezas , if you google hydra ecu i am sure you will pick up on my choice , the company that did the instal for me was tracktive solutions , so you could look at thier website to get some idea i know what you mean when you pull up at a junction and the motor cuts , i also found at times in traffic as you crawl along it would do the same ,then run ok for a while then do it again but if the distance on yours is like mine then the pressure has got to drop with the distance to cope with for the intake via a fmic and a set up ecu should read this ,and in conjunction with the idle control valve ,fuel the motor sothat it settles without stalling as i say i,m no expert and this is how i see things in my laymans terms , i hope these thought give you something to go on cheers jerry ps i reckon you could find the likes of a hydra system way cheaper in the us than it is over here |
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#38 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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just another thought the bypass system on my car my have a greater volume , i,m also running a 65mm t/body , ford style , but i think its the fuelling that needs adjusting
good luck jerry |
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#39 (permalink) |
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'92 VR4
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Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but the TT models have something called a "dash pot". It is a reverse operated vacuum check valve that prevents the throttle body from being slammed shut and choking out the motor. I had the same stalling problem with my TT when the dash pot went bad. The factory manual states that the pot is suppossed to be set so that it grabs the throttle at 2200rpms. It will then gradually let off the rest of the load. Might be worth checking into>
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Ricer: from the latin word Ricarius meaning to suck at everything you attempt
A person who makes unnecessary modifications to their most often import car (hence the term "rice") to make it (mostly make it look) faster. The most common modifications are (but not limited to): - Huge exhaust that serves no purpose but to make the car louder - Large spoiler on the back that looks like something Boeing made for the 747 - Lots of after-market company stickers they don't have parts from, but must be cool - Expensive rims that usually cost more than the car itself - Body kit to make the car appear lower, usually accented with chicken wire - Clear tail lights and corner signals - A "performance intake"- a tube that feeds cold air to their engine usually located in areas of excessive heat (behind or on top of the engine) - Most of these riced cars (a.k.a. rice rockets or rice burners) are imports; Honda Civics, Accords, Integras, CRXs, RSXs, Del Sols Mitsubishi Eclipses, Lancers, Subaru Imprezas, however there are some domestics such as Chevrolet Caviliers, Dodge Neons, Ford Focus; small, slow, economy cars designed specifically to go slow. Please note that some 3000gt's Supras, Skylines, WRX's and other higher performance imports are designed to go fast, and are therefore not always considered rice, but it really depends on the severity of the case. (courtesy urban dictionary) |
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#40 (permalink) |
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My car whines!!
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Jerry thanks for elaborating. My situation still may be a bit different. I only have the stalling issue when the IC is connected to the SC. When it is disconnected, it never stalls. My GM MAF convertor does a great job adjusting the A/F ratios at idle. mid and WOT. I still think it has something to do with the intake air pressure drop when stopping hard. When I creep to a stop, it rarily stalled. I'll still check on the hydra system.
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