abraham's tt conversion with lots of questions

[Abraham]

Originally Posted by 3000GT-LA

yea im doing my fwdtt in 2 weeks too hopes it gose well .....how long it takes to do it

well since this is my first time pulling my engine it took me about 5 hours because i was going back to check my phone for instructions on vr4stealth.com because i didnt want to miss anything. and if you go on that site you will be able to see a list of tools that you will need to pull the engine.

[green-lantern]

Originally Posted by Abraham

hopefully i will be done in the next 2 weeks. but i will be posting pics as i go, here are some that i took today.

^crappy phone pic

^we were trying to see if it fit to make it rwd

do you like my shelf?

this is after almost everything is out. as you can see to the right bottom of the picture i took out all of the a/c system, and all the way to the right thereare the half shafts but the passanger's side decided to stay in and not come out so when i tried pulling on it only half of it came out

and another thing, make sure what size your axle nuts are because when i looked at my passenger's nut it was a 30mm so i went to the store and got the socket and other things that i needed. and when it came time to do my driver's side it was a 32mm. so yeah i just needed to vent a little


Ok first set of problems that i ran into. First of all when I pulled the engine out and took the timing comers off I moved the belt with my hand to see if it was tight and the left (front) bank jumped 2 teeth and the right (rear) bank jumped 3 teeth and both of them were the intake cams. So now that I'm trying to change my lifters I want to take the cams out so it can be easier. Is that the best way or not? And I was just about to go at it and then my friend and I noticed that the intake one on the rear side it has a timing device (I don't know what it is) and he told me that I had to mark that to keep everything in line. So what should I do first just take the cams and that sensor and just put it back together with the timing marks and the sensor where it was? Aside of them jumping teeth? And also about the vss how would it be the easiest to do them before I do my lifters or after is all together? and I do have a tool to compress the springs when the cams are in place.

I know I'm all over the place right now but I forgot something. How easy or hard would it be to reset timing if everything is out of wack and I just start putting thing together following the timing marks?

Another thing. Could something go wrong if I just take the timing belt off and let the springs move the cams since I'm already going to take them off?

I am sure you didn't bend a valve with out the motor spinning. this could be a blessing in disguise though. you need to do the 60K service but please research this very well because it is not hard to with the engine out but so many people mess this up by looking at the wrong marks or not getting the tension right.

[Abraham]

Originally Posted by green-lantern

I am sure you didn't bend a valve with out the motor spinning. this could be a blessing in disguise though. you need to do the 60K service but please research this very well because it is not hard to with the engine out but so many people mess this up by looking at the wrong marks or not getting the tension right.

yes i am doing the 120k tune up. and as far as timing goes im using the write up that team3s has.

[Abraham]

another question.

since i will be using a tt ecu with my n/a harness and im also going to be using 450cc injectors i need to put some resistors on the harness. and i was reading on bobthegreat.com how to do it but what i want to know is do i put the resistor in series with the green or red wire?

has someone done this before?

[Abraham]

a little update. so i have been doing a little things here and there but i just finished putting in a new walbro 255 lph and what i wanted to ask to the people that are running this pumps in their n/a to see of they had any clearance problems.

because as you all know the pump is significantly bigger so i ditched the bottom metal piece that the assembly had and i decided to bend out the piece of metal that was under the pump to help support it. so after everything was put together i zip tied the hell out of the pump so now it was ready to put it back in, i noticed that it didnt seat flush with the tank so i moved it around to make it fit and nothing. i finally took it out and noticed that the filter was hitting the bottom of the tank. so i decided to expand the tank

how to expand the tank if your fuel pump doesnt fit:
first grab a pry bar then grab a hammer, so you put the HANDLE of the bar in the tank where the pump is hitting then cover the hole of the tank with a rag so nothing falls in when you are hitting the bar with the hammer. so work yourself around the area that is keeping you from installing the pump. so after 10 to 20 swings around the obstruction you are ready to reinstall the pump. if it still doesnt fit please repeat the same steps over again.

i almost forgot to mention that 90% of this "blk92sl" did it.

[green-lantern]

Originally Posted by Abraham

a little update. so i have been doing a little things here and there but i just finished putting in a new walbro 255 lph and what i wanted to ask to the people that are running this pumps in their n/a to see of they had any clearance problems.

because as you all know the pump is significantly bigger so i ditched the bottom metal piece that the assembly had and i decided to bend out the piece of metal that was under the pump to help support it. so after everything was put together i zip tied the hell out of the pump so now it was ready to put it back in, i noticed that it didnt seat flush with the tank so i moved it around to make it fit and nothing. i finally took it out and noticed that the filter was hitting the bottom of the tank. so i decided to expand the tank

how to expand the tank if your fuel pump doesnt fit:
first grab a pry bar then grab a hammer, so you put the HANDLE of the bar in the tank where the pump is hitting then cover the hole of the tank with a rag so nothing falls in when you are hitting the bar with the hammer. so work yourself around the area that is keeping you from installing the pump. so after 10 to 20 swings around the obstruction you are ready to reinstall the pump. if it still doesnt fit please repeat the same steps over again.

i almost forgot to mention that 90% of this "blk92sl" did it.

you so funny!! gas tank mod FTW!

instead of zip ties use hose clamps because the zip ties will deteriorate in gas.

[Abraham]

Another problem.

Ok so everyone knows that there are 3 areas to the crank pulley one for the belt that goes to the compressor and alternator another for the power steering and the last one is for the cams.
So when I tried to removed the crank pulley to remove the oil pump, I pulled the pulley but it only removed the parts where the compressor and power steering belt drive on, so the one where to timming belt goes on is still on the crank. So when I looked at it I put a pry bar to it to try to remove it and all it did is take a piece of the pulley. So my question now is how do I get it off? Can I just unbolt the oil pump and pull the pump and hope the pulley comes off or how could I do it to remove it?

I really want to do it this weekend so your cooperation is greatly appreciated.

[bstewart87]

Originally Posted by Abraham

Another problem.

Ok so everyone knows that there are 3 areas to the crank pulley one for the belt that goes to the compressor and alternator another for the power steering and the last one is for the cams.
So when I tried to removed the crank pulley to remove the oil pump, I pulled the pulley but it only removed the parts where the compressor and power steering belt drive on, so the one where to timming belt goes on is still on the crank. So when I looked at it I put a pry bar to it to try to remove it and all it did is take a piece of the pulley. So my question now is how do I get it off? Can I just unbolt the oil pump and pull the pump and hope the pulley comes off or how could I do it to remove it?

I really want to do it this weekend so your cooperation is greatly appreciated.

Just spray it with some PB blaster. Then put two flat head screw drivers behind the pulley on opposite sides and push gently with equal force. It will slide right off. I had the same problem last week. I chipped the pulley slightly too.

[bstewart87]

Did you get that sprocket off?

[Abraham]

Originally Posted by bstewart87

Did you get that sprocket off?

I'm actually at a friends house posting from my phone. And my car is across town in my parents garage.