Oil Cooler info and Bypass valve info ( Inlet / Outlet specifications ) and accusump

[SHiVeR-91VR4]

Just as a note for anyone looking for this (because I know there have been many) the inlet/outlet oil cooler lines in the factory manual are wrong!

The oil flowing TO the oil cooler is FROM the REAR line on the oil filter housing. This is the one farther back towards the rear of the car.

The oil flowing FROM the oil cooler and back into the engine is the one closer to the front of the car.

If you connect them wrong, the engine will run just fine still as most do not use a one way valve. Even if you use a one way valve or the oil cooler is completely blocked, the oil pressure will force the bypass valve open.

But knowing which side is which is important if you are installing an accusump (somewhat). If you are using a one way valve to redirect oil flow one way to the engine (not necessary if you have a reverse flow flap on your oil filter) you need to know this information.

Some supplementary information on gutting your bypass valve or removing the bypass valve. Removing/gutting the valve will HURT the cooling capacity of your engine. There is a small amount of flow through the oil cooler when the valve is open (oil < 212 deg F), but 99% of the oil flows past the valve and goes into the engine.

When the valve is closed all of the oil is directed to the oil cooler and then to the engine. If the oil cooler is clogged the oil will push the valve open and your engine will not be destroyed.

The only thing you can do would be to create a billet to plug the valve closed so that all oil always flows through the oil cooler. This really isn't a good idea because in colder climates your oil may not get warm enough to burn off the condensation/fuel that is in the oil.

[Highboosted]

Very good thing to know. Also reminds me that I need to replace the bypass/thermostat valve when tearing into my engine next time.

[EvanH]

so what your saying is the oil goes thru the filter before it goes thru the cooler?