The OEM parts limitation thread

[3startuna]

Goal: The Idea behind this thread is to list the limitations of various OEM parts, and provide a rough estimate as to when we need to upgrade.

Reason: To prevent owners from spending money getting aftermarket parts that are actually a lower quality than OEM. The idea is to share the information collected by the bigger 3S guys, so future tuners can make better decisions when building so that we can continue to advance the platform

Who can post: Anyone! please feel free to post pictures of failed parts, and a brief description of how you think the part failed. Also please feel free to correct any mistakes. Where ever possible please quote your sources I would like this thread to be as accurate as possible

What will I do: As we reach a consensus for determined a generally accepted limit for the part, I will edit this post, to show that limit.

Rules: NO FLAMING, no retarded posts like "FWD tranny good for 5whp" , or "the rod broke because its cheap crap" Please keep the discussion serious.

So lets Start:

Stock Rods:

Stock crank: Good for low 9s, 1000whp

Bearings:

OEM head bolts: Good for 30psi to maybe 32psi and low 10s better than ARP

Factory head gasket: Good for 30psi to maybe 32psi with no head fixing(pinning/o ringing). Best option other than copper

Factory block: No limit reached

Valvetrain- in this section the purpose is to determine how high we can rev our engines before parts start failing. Also to determine what cams we can run safely on our factory valvetrain.

Stock Heads and cams Highest hp recorded so far 707AWHP 620AWTQ on E85 and 30psi and probably more

Factory Valves:

Factory valve springs:

Factory Lifters:

Drivetrain
Clutch FWD:

Clutch AWD:

FWD Axles:

Front AWD Axles:

Rear AWD axles: Good for 600-800 whp

FWD diff:

AWD Front diff:

Transfer case: Good for 1.3 60 fts and 9 sec passes

OEM Driveshaft:

AWD rear diff: No limit reached

FWD trans:

5 speed Getrag: Good for 9sec passes with Bell housing reinforced

6 speed Getrag: Good for 9sec passes with Bell housing reinforced

Factory flywheel bolts:

[3startuna]

Headbolts

their has been some discussion that these are actually stronger than ARP. I plan to test this theory. At my school we have a tension tester, I am going to ask my teacher if I can load a factory bolt in it and stretch it to see where it breaks. IF anyone has a ARP bolt they want to donate for a comparison please pm me. I am willing to buy the bolt. This will be my contribution to the platform.

Here is a sample way to document failed parts in this thread. Please try to follow a similar format.

Part: FWD Diff
Miles at time of failure: 110,000 miles
Mods at failure/ approx hp: Intake, testpipe, maximal performance solid mounts, MSD plug wires

What were you doing at time of failure: I was driving at 35 mph to pick up my then girlfriend, when I heard a loud BANG. I pulled over and saw gear oil leaking.

Pictures of failure:



notice the missing tooth. it broke lose and shot a hole through the casing.

Theory: One of the teeth on the spider gears broke lose and shot through the bellhousing. This seems to be an issue with these trannies, as the FWD turbo DSMs that also use our trannies and diff have failed in the same way.

Source: Personal experience

Back up evidence: The Quaife Automatic Torque Biasing Differentials

They have documented this issue with the DSMs



Their theory:

The number one reason people end up getting a Quaife differential in a FWD Eclipse. Wheel hop kills the stock diff. Once a piece of the stock little spider gears breaks off, the spinning diff housing droop kicks right through the bell housing and into the clutch. Ouch.

If you are making good power in a FWD Eclipse, you can get a Quaife before or after you make this mess.

Wheel hop in an AWD will break the spider gears in the stock center diff also. MOST of the time the broken gear pieces will stay contained with in the center diff housing. This gives you the option of welding it solid (cheap fix, loss in around town drivability) or buying a center LSD. Again... before or after you break it if you are making big power and getting ANY wheel hop.

Hp Limitation: Unknown, it seems to fail due to wheel hop, I dont think I was making enough power to blow it up

[brutten]

+1 for keeping the stock spark plug wires

[DCIV]

Originally Posted by brutten

+1 for keeping the stock spark plug wires

I am going to add that if you do post in this you need to have better post then this. Why stock plug wires, experiances you have had with aftermarkets, which ones, and why.


Coop

[3startuna]

Originally Posted by DCIV

I am going to add that if you do post in this you need to have better post then this. Why stock plug wires, experiances you have had with aftermarkets, which ones, and why.


Coop

Exactly, we need more information as to why stock wires are better than aftermarket.

[bjmsam]

Originally Posted by 3startuna

What will I do: As we reach a consensus for determined a generally accepted limit for the part, I will edit this post, to show that limit.

Better yet, update the wiki.

Originally Posted by brutten

+1 for keeping the stock spark plug wires

...and stock ignition coils

[brutten]

Originally Posted by 3startuna

Exactly, we need more information as to why stock wires are better than aftermarket.

Originally Posted by DCIV

I am going to add that if you do post in this you need to have better post then this. Why stock plug wires, experiances you have had with aftermarkets, which ones, and why.
Coop

If you are building a race car with crazy boost and HP numbers then you would likely be better served with ultra low resistance wires and NON resister plugs. For the 98% of us that are not attempting single digit 1/4 time slips the stockers are fine.


1.) OEM Wires are built they way they are for a reason. The aftermarket wire distributors only care about short term performance and will sacrifice quality and longevity in order to sell their product.

2.) If you search many users have solved misfire issues by going back to the stock wires.

3.) Easy to test them them for the correct resistance as acceptale ranges are in service manual

4.) You will NOT gain performance unless your stock wires are bad.

4.) My stock wires have 80K on them and work perfectly and until I see that my stock wires start to bleed voltage or arc, I am sticking with them.

If you want replace them with aftermarket get the MSD 8.5mm or anything else with the OEM style boot.

[i3igpete]

stock injectors are good for 11's
stock turbos are good for 11's
stock intercoolers are good for 10's
stock fuel pump is good for 12's

[1Forest1]

I suppose this doesnt fit in your layout request, but as you are looking for solid info, here is a bit about the wires discussed above.

Sourced from Jeff Lucius. PM me if you want deleted as seems we are already getting off topic.

* MSD Ignition 8.5mm Super Conductor (40-50 ohms/ft)
* Accel Thundersport (150 ohms/ft)
* Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro (350 ohm/ft)
* Aurora ignition wire set (400 ohms/ft)
* Vitek Performance Cables (their web site does not mention resistance, but John Monnin measured them at about 800 ohms/ft; the label under Vitek's braiding says "Magstar Gold 8mm High Performance S-4 Stainless Steel Mag Wire" - thanks John!; Magstar wires are manufactured by Wiretec)
* Wiretec Magstar Gold (800 ohms/ft as measured by John Monnin)
* NGK Resistor Spark Plug Wire Set (2600 ohms/ft)
* Mitsubishi factory wire sets (3000++ ohms/ft)
* Car Quest brand wire sets (3000++ ohms/ft - Thanks to Bret for measuring these wires.)
* Magnecor KV85 (6000++ ohms/ft)

[DCIV]

Originally Posted by i3igpete

stock injectors are good for 11's
stock turbos are good for 11's
stock intercoolers are good for 10's
stock fuel pump is good for 12's

I am going to add onto petes a little

Stock intake mani good for 9's
Stock fuel rails good for 10's
Stock fuel system, minus the fuel pump, good for 10's


Coop