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#1 (permalink) |
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wiggedywiggedywack yo!
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is anybody doing this? what temps are you seeing at the plenum?
obviously cooler intake charges = more power... we all know that... and air temp increases as pressure increases... so more boost = higher intake temps... but, more boost = higher compression ratios for the cylinders... at what point are we loosing power because we are trying to run too much hot air boost instead of just the right amount of cooler air? is there any kind of a formula (even very generalized) that we could use to help tune with? such as boost at temp = compression ratio... for instance 12psi (in the plenum) @ 150* = x.0:1 CR and maybe 15psi @ 250* = x.0:1 - x.5:1 CR... not that these numbers are in any way, shape or form accurate... just an illustration...
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#2 (permalink) | |||
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Head of Society of Bob
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that's the whole point of using different turbos. 9b's can produce 20psi, but they are way out of their efficiency island, and are producing 20psi of super-hot air.
To find the effective compression ratio, you can use this formula. It is dependant on boost pressure and static compression ratio. Cf=(B/14.7+1)Cr where Cf is the final ratio, Cr is the static ratio, and B is the boost pressure in psig.
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#3 (permalink) |
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wiggedywiggedywack yo!
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right... but exactly how much of a factor does heat play into that? just calculating the compression ratio base on boost pressure measured at the plenum isn't entirely accurate... just with that formula and not considering thermal expansion of air at different temperatures you should be able to produce more power at 18.8:1 (20psi) than you do at 16.0:1 (14.7psi), right... but if the colder air at ~15psi is able to expand more than the 20psi of hot air... then wouldn't you actually be running higher compression ratio than 16.0:1 at 14.7psi and maybe not quite the full 18.8:1 at 20psi? and yes i know that it would depend on what turbos are pushing that pressure... but i believe that the intake temps would be somewhat indicative of that (higher temps = less efficient/smaller turbos at higher pressures)... maybe 20psi does create more power than 14.7psi... (not that 9b's would ever stand a chance at holding that)... but maybe 15psi creates more power than 17psi???
i would just like to know how to factor air temp into that equation. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Head of Society of Bob
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then, maybe I don't understand your question. Compression ratio is completely independant of air temperature, type of turbo, hell even type of engine.
It almost sounds like you're asking more how to calculate power. Compression ratio is a factor in calculating brake specific fuel consumption, which is used along with injector size and duty cycle to calculate maximum possible power. You are correct that hotter air is less dense, and so an engine ingesting air at 200d. will be less powerful than the same engine ingesting 150d. air, simply because it is taking in less mass of air, even if both engines are operating at the same final compression ratio. The mass of air entering the engine is what limits the injector pulse width, thus limiting power. But, it has no bearing on compression ratio at all. Is this what you were talking about? |
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#5 (permalink) | ||
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wiggedywiggedywack yo!
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thanks |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Head of Society of Bob
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well, I suppose you could, but it's a lot easier to measure the result of the combustion (O2's and EGT) and then adjust then to try to precisely measure the air going in and then match it with just the right amount of fuel. That's the ECU's job.
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#8 (permalink) |
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vehicular thaumaturgist
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I know I've seen devices like this before, but where can I purchase an inexpensive fast-reacting air temperature gage, or possibly a differential temperature gage (obviously with two inputs).
It would be very useful to be able to quote peak air temp in the plenum. -Chris
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The Pansy Patrol - a 3000GT/Stealth car blog with how-tos
![]() Pearl Yellow 1994 R/T TT w/84k - FOR SALE! new 4-Bolt factory short block, DR StgII heads, Titan TD05 headers, 14B turbos w/ ported 7cm^2 housings, 3" minimum-bend catless exhaust, SCE oil pan, RPSII clutch, Fidenza flywheel, OZ F1 Plus 17x9.5" wheels, Kumho Ecsta MX 245/45 tires, Drweldin DSM SMICs, 3SX engine mounts (Maximal solid front), GReddy 60mm P/H/W boost, Carbotech Panther Plus & Bobcat pads w/ slotted/drilled rotors, KSport GT-Pro coilovers, Maximal rear camber arms, SCE balljoints, ABS delete w/ cockpit-mounted Wilwood proportioning valve, AC delete, EGR/evap/dashpot delete, cruise/vacuum-tank delete, '95 Lexan headlights, McCulloch 4300K HIDs, GReddy Type-S BOV, solid shift bushings; Misc Parts: Walbro341, 20# fixed-back seats, Accelerated Moto catch can |
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#9 (permalink) |
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The Math Man
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I know on a DSM, you can use DSM Link to monitor intake temp. Not sure were the sensor is though, but maybe you could just use that sensor and modify it to read to an LCD or something on our car...just a thought
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1995 3000GT FWD-TT: Sold
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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wiggedywiggedywack yo!
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i'm going to do some more research on my own... i just thought maybe someone else had already considered this possibility and could save me the trouble of looking it all up for myself. |
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