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#72 (permalink) | |
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vehicular thaumaturgist
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Quote:
From turbochargers.com (Starion/Conquest 14G): ![]() ![]() EDIT: it looks like 45-degrees clocking is enough to fix it (see DSM 16G above), assuming the bosses on the compressor housing have the same spacing as the actuator. That might IMPROVE the direction of the compressor outlet, but might also put the wg actuator into the firewall... If a Starquest compressor housing used a DSM wasteagate actuator (with custom clocking), it looks like J-pipes (and outlet adaptors) wouldn't be necessary at all.
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The Pansy Patrol - a 3000GT/Stealth car blog with how-tos
![]() Pearl Yellow 1994 R/T TT w/84k - FOR SALE! new 4-Bolt factory short block, DR StgII heads, Titan TD05 headers, 14B turbos w/ ported 7cm^2 housings, 3" minimum-bend catless exhaust, SCE oil pan, RPSII clutch, Fidenza flywheel, OZ F1 Plus 17x9.5" wheels, Kumho Ecsta MX 245/45 tires, Drweldin DSM SMICs, 3SX engine mounts (Maximal solid front), GReddy 60mm P/H/W boost, Carbotech Panther Plus & Bobcat pads w/ slotted/drilled rotors, KSport GT-Pro coilovers, Maximal rear camber arms, SCE balljoints, ABS delete w/ cockpit-mounted Wilwood proportioning valve, AC delete, EGR/evap/dashpot delete, cruise/vacuum-tank delete, '95 Lexan headlights, McCulloch 4300K HIDs, GReddy Type-S BOV, solid shift bushings; Misc Parts: Walbro341, 20# fixed-back seats, Accelerated Moto catch can Last edited by Multiades : 10-09-2005 at 02:28 PM. |
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#73 (permalink) |
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Super Member
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Those starion 14g actuators look like exactly what I'd like to try on my rear 16g. I've been running with a stock tdo5 actuator up front and a tdo4 actuator in the rear with an external helper spring. This current setup surges above 25psi (bad thing). I'm planning on switching to a pair of t3/t4 actuators if I can't find something else to fit. The way I'm running my 16g's (rear clocked upwards rather than down) I have no room for a rear actuator much bigger than the stock tdo4 (tdo5 is just a little too big). Time to cut a hole in the firewall I guess...
Wayne
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Quaife Front LSD for AWD
Ksport Suspension Kits Specializing in 3/S Suspension, Billet Transmission Shift Forks, 300M Output Shafts, Front AWD and FWD LSD, Transmission Rebuild Parts, STOPTECH Brake Kits, Big Reds, and Custom Brake Upgrades! More Products to Come. 1993 3000GT-VR4: AEM EMS, etc 663 awhp, 607 tq (retired tdo5-e16g's) 10.835@132.69 -26psi |
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#74 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Free bump to a good thread.
I did my exhaust a couple of days ago and good lord did the thing wake up. Full 3" split to 3" on both sides to two glass packs and 4" circular tips all stainless. Deep rumble at idle and cruising speeds and loud at WOT. Sounds alot like a BORLA. Anyways, no other changes and the car just flies, much harder than before. I have to wait till it warms up to go at it again with a logger because it has been really cold around here as of late and TC'ed cars love cold air, so I know some of the effect is from the straight through plumbing and some is from the cold weather. I need to get a feel for it without the cold weather to see how much is just from the exhaust but that 6k-7k area seems to really like the new exhaust.
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His - Red 93 RT/tt
Mods: Hallman's MBC @ 16 psi psi, turbo XS type H BOV, stillen dp, custom exhaust, Spec stage 2 clutch, RPS FW, 3sx lightweight crank pulley, BCP7RES-11 @ .030 gap, autometer gauges, slightly gutted mas, dsm SMIC's, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Tein S springs, pte 580 inj's, safc neo/SITC, 13t's, hotwired walbro, maximal performance solid motor mounts, DR plenum spacer. Hers - BPU Green 94 vr4 |
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#75 (permalink) |
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Forum user
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This is an independent backpressure chart pulled from Garry Donavan's sight.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/ He's geared towards 2.2 and 2.5 4cyl chryslers, but all of it can be applied here. His 9 second K-car says so. "Straight through designs with no baffles or louvers to obstruct the flow are the best. Flowmaster or "path" mufflers should be avoided if possible. Check out the backpressure chart below to see how some popular mufflers perform in a backpressure shootout. "
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![]() Ernest. |
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#76 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I did some testing of my own using a drilled out O2 sensor and a pressure gauge plugged into the rear O2 housing.
With gutted precats, a 3" downpipe (2 x 2.5" flowing into 3" pipe), no cat and 3" piping back to the stock catback with DR650Rs at 24 psi (dropping to 21 psi by redline), I am seeing 9 psi of back pressure. This isn't quite as much as I had hoped, but I think its still worthwhile replacing the stock exhaust. I figure the reason for the discrepancy between FWombat's numbers and mine is because he has a Td05 setup whereas mine is Td04.
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'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R Turbos, Snow Stage 2D Alky Kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Aeromotive FPR & Filter, Hotwired Supra Pump, ek2mfg fuel loop & spacer, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP Downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted Precats and Test pipe, Maximal Solid F/R motor mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, RPS Flywheel, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS Brake lines, Hawk Pads (front), Stillen Metal Matrix Pads (rear)
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