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#51 (permalink) |
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"Oh...you're a girl..."
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Yeah, well my measurement was also with my car sitting in a shop with the hood closed...so the ventilation wasn't too great. Lol.
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91 Stealth R/T
89 Plymouth Reliant K - winter beater R.I.P. 2/6/08 |
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#52 (permalink) |
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We can make it better!
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personally there is a whole heap missing from this intake thing...venting the air is only going to do so much...we need to insulate the turbo's (look at the turbo covers), wrap the exhaust piping, shield the exhaust manifolds, insulate the turbo pipes (less heatsoak) AND THEN some good venting to allow air to escape from the rear and front turbos...as well as the radiator...then yeah, definitly a cold wall, I'm sure using the stock intake location would be fine for those after the stock look...just need to insulate the air comming in from it...
for the ultimate amusment...anyone with a STOCK intake care to dig up some numbers for us?
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#53 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
If you watch the temps realtime like I do with the scanmaster you can see the temps rise and fall with airflow to the engine bay. If you are moving at decent speed the temps maybe 20-30 above ambient, even in this hot weather (12x when its 9x outside). Now stop moving and you see those temps start to rise when the fans go into operation. Mainly because more heat is being introduced under the hood than released by the stock ventillation. There is no where for it to go so it builds up under the hood the same way hot air builds up in a hot air balloon. In a month or so I am going to get either the gt300 or scoote 2 vented hoods and then throw in a cold air wall. I did some preliminary testing of the cold air wall and it works but it still cannot over come the balloon effect I mentioned, it just delays it.
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His - Red 93 RT/tt
Mods: Hallman's MBC @ 16 psi, turbo XS type H BOV, stillen dp, custom exhaust, Spec stage 2 clutch, RPS FW, 3sx lightweight crank pulley, BCP7RES-11 @ .030 gap, autometer gauges, slightly gutted mas, dsm SMIC's, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Tein S springs, pte 580 inj's, safc neo/SITC, 13t's, hotwired walbro, maximal performance solid motor mounts, DR plenum spacer. Hers - BPU Green 94 vr4 |
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#54 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I was cleaning out the garage today and came across the stock airbox. It was set aside, in favor of round K&N filter on end of MAS.
After looking at the stock box a little, it reminded me of a post I read a while back, when someone wrote --> "replace stock air box with open element, to suck in a bunch of hot air, HP gain = 0" (or some words to that effect). . . . That seems to make some sense as I look at the airbox design. It has a snorkel that is drawing air from under the fuse box. It seems that MIGHT get more of its air from the cooler air under the car instead of the "hot air balloon" of engine compartment. I am very seriously considering putting the stock box back on, then taking it a few steps further --> gut the clear "snake eye" plastic, , drilling the housing behind the headlight into "swiss cheese", , and installing an insulated cold-air wall between engine and this new air path. Has this ever been done? Am I crazy? It seems like this HAS to bring cooler air to the MAS. And one thing I like about it --> almost no change in outside appearance of the car. How much $ are 1G Stealth corners going for? . . . in case this is a complete bust ![]() If I get the guts to take a dremel to my snake eye, I will report the results. .
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-Ron
'91 Stealth TT purchased Aug 2004 ![]() |
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