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#31 (permalink) | |
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I tried it on Monday again since the weather is getting warmer. When I was coming in intake temps were in the 13x region so I let the car idle there with the hood open to see if the temps would come down. After a few minutes, no change. Would be nice to see what the cold air wall does numbers wise or even some of these hoods (victory,viper,575,stinger), that ram air over towards the intake, even some of the vented hoods (gt300/topsecret, evo style, scoote). I know a good portion of the board has loggers so they should have a record of intake temps under various conditons with these aftermarket products.
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His - Red 93 RT/tt
Mods: Hallman's MBC @ 16 psi, turbo XS type H BOV, stillen dp, custom exhaust, Spec stage 2 clutch, RPS FW, 3sx lightweight crank pulley, BCP7RES-11 @ .030 gap, autometer gauges, slightly gutted mas, dsm SMIC's, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Tein S springs, pte 580 inj's, safc neo/SITC, 13t's, hotwired walbro, maximal performance solid motor mounts, DR plenum spacer. Hers - BPU Green 94 vr4 |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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130 degree temps, wow!
No testing for me at the moment. My car is in 200 pieces for 120k+. . . . Hopefully not TOO long before it is running again. I tried last year fooling around with the blisters, jacking them up etc., but did not really seem to help at all without a wall. I was hoping to do some testing with a wall this year. Hopefully not too off-topic, but is there any chance a “wall”, in combination with “scoops” in place of the blisters, would have any real effect? . . . I am thinking of experimenting with that. First to see if it works, then if it does, to come up with something that does not look too hideous. . . . I am thinking something (for lack of a better example), that looks like the scoops on Challengers or Cudas, angled with the original blister hole. Has anyone tried this? . . . I have not searched recently, but in the past had no luck finding examples.
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-Ron
'91 Stealth TT purchased Aug 2004 ![]() |
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#33 (permalink) |
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I have 3 large holes cut in my blisters as a pattern to vent heat.
Other than seeing heat come out of there in the winter time my temps don't differ from others with 1st gen rt/tt's in any appreciable manner. I think if the cold air wall truly isolates the intake away from the rest of the engine bay heat that should be a substantial difference, even better in combination with a aftermarket hood but no numbers yet. Just thinking out in the open. Problem is hot air rises and then gets trapped under our hoods, at idle the heat from the radiator and the engine gets trapped more heat being produced than vented. I want to see some vented hoods and ram air style hoods come in this thread with numbers. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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eBay Motors: FRP Velpar HOOD kit body Sealth 3000GT 91-93 2 3Dr (item 150240354383 end time May-04-08 22:15:03 PDT)
this is the hood i have ill take some iat temps for you guys later. i also have a bomex front bumper and fmic. Google Image Result for http://www.funrunracing.se/bilder/3000gt_07.jpg this is the front bumper |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Well I decided test out the cold air wall similiar to Cold Air Intake Wall & Box kits
To do it I made one of my own using cardboard to seal of the area where the FIPK is located. Cliff notes is there is a noticeable 20-30 degree difference with the wall and the stock hood, stock cooling system. Results? Well it works, for a little while that is. Usually on a warm 50-7x degree day when the coolant temps reach 18x-189 the subsequent intake temps go anywhere from 50-80 degrees above ambient (highest being 13x). With the wall in place on the same day temps only go 40-50 above ambient and I never saw anything much over 100 unless not in motion. When I parked the car and came back (shopping) and started her up again intake temps were at 129 from just sitting there with the engine off. A little motion out of the parking lot and she dropped back down to 10x and once in traffic it was back down to 9x. Seems like the wall prevents direct the direct admission of air from the front manifold and radiator to the MAS but it can be overwelmed if you are idling for too long and their isn't adequate venting with the stock hood. Still looking for some numbers from people with aftermarket hoods. Pretty sure one of those vented hoods in combination with this wall would be a direct shot of ambient to the MAS or pretty close. |
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#37 (permalink) |
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Isnt this a CAR SITE?
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Im surprised more people dont try this, but the first time I went to the track, I took off the passenger hood blister (1st gen).
Kibwe, could you pull the 4 screws that hold the blister on, and see what results you get? (also a good time to clean out any wax/crap buildup you get gunked into the hood-blister seam) ![]()
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Maximal Solid Mounts. Never Installed $90shipped - Gotta go. PM me.
Public Stealth & 3000GT Picture Database - 1,500+ pictures. Thanks to everyone who contributed. |
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#38 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
Never driven without the blisters on but it should work. Thought the most function vents would be above the front and rear manifolds because that the hottest parts of the engine. The pitroad M hood, the scoote 2 hood, gt300 hood and hoods with that kind of venting directly over the engine would probably get rid of the most heat and the more open the hood the better the pressure drop and the more efficient your radiator. The victory, 575, viper, stinger style hoods which ram air over towards the airbox would probably be the best at getting ambient over to the air box or wall if you have one. Something like http://www.rapidcars.com/images/08viperacrfront3.jpg for the new vipers would be perfect. If you could vent the manifold heat and provide a ram air effect all in the same hood it would be perfect. |
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