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#1 (permalink) |
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15t's ... ? yep
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EDIT:::: After replacing the control arm-- the problem persisted. The issue is a bad subframe bushing. The thread's basic idea still applies and a worthy read for any FWD 3/s.
Take a look at this. This is where the control arm bushing goes. It prevents the control arm from moving forward and backward. Looks like the metal here is flimsy and its getting warped. The bushing from the control arm didn't look very good for only being 3 years old Premature failure is obvious. This could be the cause of my Wheel hop. If the metal is bending and allowing the control arm to travel forward and backward it will cause wheel hop. It also could kill the bushing allot faster then normal. I also experience a Bucking (Non engine Related) when driving. Example, 1st gear- if i am at 4k rpms any blip of the gas will cause a nasty rock of the car back and forth and i hear things banging around in the front sub frame area (possible loose or dead bushings?). If i had a welder I would of taken some sections of steel and welded it on to the control arm mount to make it stronger. I think that will have to be a project once i get a welder. For now I'm going to put a large washer on there that will grab more surface area. The new control arm has a bushing thats in better shape. Hopefully it will solve my problems. I know of 4 other cars with this same problem making similar power. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I realize a few things. People like IPO isn't driving the FWDTT car around town every day. In addition he can swap control arms if he needed to on a moments notice. So he's not the best reference to prove me wrong about all this. I'm around 25,000 miles on my FWD TT. I'm noticing wear in unusual area's like this mount location for the control arm. Things I've done to solve wheel hop. Intrax springs, New Shocks, Maximal Solid mounts, Then switched to 3sx Polly Mounts, 275" wide tires, New Bushings for sway bars, and Strut Tower Braces.
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Last edited by DigiiManDan3KGT : 12-03-2007 at 09:13 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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15t's ... ? yep
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Quote:
I ordered a 1993 Vr4 TT Passengerside axle From RAXLES.COM we made 100% sure it was the correct part. I used the service manual and got the part number for the 93 vr4 axle and they promised me they understood the difference. Those guys rock. The Driverside im afraid might be a 1991 VR4 half shaft/intermediate shaft and 1991 vr4 Axle. I've noticed im leaking fluid from the Tranny seal on the passengerside axle but i think thats from the wheel hop killing the seal. It was replaced less then 10,000 miles ago. I just replaced the control arms with 90,000 used control arms from a 94 RT/TT (edit: I installed brand new balljoints) and it didnt do any thing. I'm under the impression that my subframe bushings are so shot that its allowing the car to slop around. I hear a Cluck/click when i go over large bumps, Break heavily, or reverse out of a parking spot and then hit the breaks. The main issue here is that i belive FWDTT's kill there front subframe bushings and it causes wheel hop. I'm desperatly trying to resolve this issue and its the only part left i havent replaced. Last edited by DigiiManDan3KGT : 11-08-2007 at 02:41 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I have a 94 NA DOHC ...and have the same trans axle leak ....I'v changed the seal twice and the stub axle (new axle) did not help !
What did help ?? I tried using HONDA MANUAL TRANSMISION OIL .....shifting is 5X smoother and the leak? .....it stopped ....lol...for 2 years now its bone dry....so much for all of those so called "better synthetics" Honda trans oil is $10 per Litre and is not synthetic Good luck! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Racing
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honda trans oil is basically 10w-30 motor oil, i believe
As for the axle situation, I know of people who have had problems with alot of things due having the 2nd gen NA axle which is .5" longer. 91-93 TT axles are all the exact same. And for the wear problems you have, I imagine it is actually the other way around. Wheel hop causes the subframe bushings to get fucked up. I NEVER had wheelhop, and I have ZERO problems with my control arms, or thier bushings. FYI, I have put over 20k miles on my FWD TT with 9b's, 14b's, and E3-16g's. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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2 of 3 in the US!
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Quote:
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ES 3000TT
Soon something else!!2 of 3 in the US! |
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#7 (permalink) |
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15t's ... ? yep
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I hate to say this because its my wallet that takes the hit, but for the FWD guys that can't get rid of wheel hop after replacing EVERYthing, I'll be replacing the subframe bushings and will let every one know if that solves the problem.
So far in the last month I've been around 4 FWD TT's all of them have some kind of wheelhop issues or bucking. Chask, SHooter83, ES3000TT, and my self. All of us have solid motor mounts or pollys. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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"The Fisherman"
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I don't have wheel hop and I have the longer NA axle on the passenger's side and I also have no leaks coming from the seals.
![]() 5spd AWD tranny w/ Front Kormex LSD FWD JIC suspension w/ SCE custom parts 3sx Poly motor mounts Rear PST Sway Bar 245/40/18 RT-615s on the front Interested in seeing your results with the newer bushings. Are you going OEM with the bushings or making some out of poly? Maybe you could also bring the car to a shop that has a lift to weld some more "support" to that bracket since it does look a bit flimsy. Keep us updated! Us FWD guys need to help each other out I certainly will post my findings when I start breaking pieces with my setup.Also, do you have any pics of your 275 tires in the front? I'd like to see how much they stick out ![]() Brian Last edited by pyun : 11-18-2007 at 11:31 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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3sx sells a poly kit for the subframe, looks like a bitch to do,
thought id let you know. http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...idProduct=1444 That should make it easier |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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15t's ... ? yep
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Quote:
If any one is willing to give measurments on the bushings we can make solids. THe control arm bushing kit needs to be polly, solids dont seem logical there. |
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