Getting the most out of your Apexi S-AFC= Stock MAF honeycomb removal - Page 9 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

Innovator · 08-09-2003, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bluv69k
ipo, sorry if I had the wrong idea. I just think it may work for some and others not. Like the maft, Tugvr4 is the only vr4 I have seen that it runs good with. I will give it a try and if I have trouble I will just reinstall them.

That's the right outlook!

Just give it a good chance and once you get the idle right, you will never go back, although it's quite easy to go back to the stock MAF if you decide to. Nothing ventured, nothing gained

Import Power · 08-09-2003, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Innovator

I've already explained the method of getting the car to run correctly after this mod. Give others the opportunity to give it a chance before you get them all nervous about trying it.

I may be one person, but this is what I do for a living. So, as I said earlier, I have a clue.

I have done EXACTLY (sans dyno) you have done many times.

PLEASE keep in mind, and being the experienced mechanic I know you know this.
EVERY car can and will react diferrently...It happens. What works 100% for one can be detrimental to the other....

I never said NO ONE TRY THIS IT SUX

Just stated the results of this mod that many have experienced. Take it for what it is, not every car will work like yours

jeff97vr4 · 08-09-2003, 09:56 AM

Instead of sarcasm, how about some skepticism. These claims always seem a bit optimistic. From the first post:

Quote:

It also used a 1/3 less gas on the way home!

.

A 50 percent increase in gas mileage is very good. Sounds too good to be true, especially since this is in closed loop.

475 AWHP on 550cc injectors is also right at the limit.

As far as the pressure sensor being damaged, I don't know if it is true. There is at least one claim of the factory MAF that stopped working after the honeycombs were removed. The flow will certainly be more turbulent and it would be difficult to predict how that flow will affect the pressure wave created by the vortex generator. Whether it is permanent damage or just erratic performance, there have been people that have had problems. Most have been corrected by replacing the honeycombs. Some have had them for extended periods without problems. Just trying to present both sides to this possible consequences of this mod.

Jeff

Innovator · 08-09-2003, 10:02 AM

Well, I did a lot of WOT on the way there and back, and due to the leaner condition, I used less gas

Also, you are leaving the center honeycomb in (the one by the resistor that measures the air flow) so the air going past the sensor really is not more turbulent, it's just less....

Maybe some MAFs have shit the bed because the were manhandled too much. Either way, the whole proceedure is totally reversible if you aren't a putz

Quijinn · 08-09-2003, 12:26 PM

question is there only one screw holding the primary honeycomd in place?? If so my thought might be over time that one screw might let go due to the honeycomb tring to pivot from the force on it, seems to me the parts would help hold each other in. I have not looked at it (at work) and just thought I would ask.

Innovator · 08-09-2003, 12:36 PM

No, there are 4 screws.

Quijinn · 08-09-2003, 12:38 PM

cool deal, was just thinking that the turbo might not enjoy that snack

jeff97vr4 · 08-09-2003, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Innovator

Also, you are leaving the center honeycomb in (the one by the resistor that measures the air flow) so the air going past the sensor really is not more turbulent, it's just less....

The resistor is actually a thermistor to measure the temperature. There is also a barometric pressure sensor. The Karmen vortex phenomenon is used to measure volume air flow. Mass air flow is calculated from the three measured variables.

Jeff

Innovator · 08-09-2003, 01:03 PM

Thanks...

It's still all contained behind the center honeycomb that is left intact.

SpyderVR4 · 08-09-2003, 08:40 PM

I've been debating on the honeycomb removal since back in 98 when I read about it on the DSM boards. I've since tried it on 2 different DSMs, both with pretty good success.

I've been holding off on doing it on a 3s since I heard lots of negative experience about it from other 3s owners. But after reading this post, it got me thinking about it again (one the theory somewhat makes sense, second, there were lots of naysayer on DSM boards back then about it as well), and I finally decided to try it.

Well, so far it seems to work pretty well for me. Besides, it's easy to put them back if my car start acting funny. And I do have an extra MAS, so even if I damage this one, I got a back up. Took the car out last night and tuned it on the road, it maybe my imagination, but my car definitly seems to have picked up power.

Anyhoo, I'll also keep you guys updated on how my car runs with this mod.

08-09-2003, 08:40 PM	#90 (permalink)
SpyderVR4 Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Framingham, MA Drives: 1995 Spyder VR4 Trader Rating: (0)	I've been debating on the honeycomb removal since back in 98 when I read about it on the DSM boards. I've since tried it on 2 different DSMs, both with pretty good success. I've been holding off on doing it on a 3s since I heard lots of negative experience about it from other 3s owners. But after reading this post, it got me thinking about it again (one the theory somewhat makes sense, second, there were lots of naysayer on DSM boards back then about it as well), and I finally decided to try it. Well, so far it seems to work pretty well for me. Besides, it's easy to put them back if my car start acting funny. And I do have an extra MAS, so even if I damage this one, I got a back up. Took the car out last night and tuned it on the road, it maybe my imagination, but my car definitly seems to have picked up power. Anyhoo, I'll also keep you guys updated on how my car runs with this mod. __________________ ======================== 95 Spyder VR4 - Red Blitz DSBC Silver Indiglo, S-AFC, 550cc injectors, Denso fuel pump, TEC 15Gs, ERL Water Injection,LS6 MAFT, PST Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft, MSD DIS4 HO, Modified ATR Downpipe/Hi-flow Cat, Greddy Type S BOV, RPS Max Clutch, Front double Strut Bar, 3SX Camber Kit, Stillen Cross drilled Rotors + Hawk Performance pads, SS braided brake lines, Toyo Proxes T1-S, Torquemax SS Y-pipe, Eibach Pro springs, Defi Heads Up Display Boost Gauge & Turbo Timer, and hose reduction mod (best bang for the buck). 2005 Subaru Forester XT 2006 Volvo S60R 2007 BMW 335i Boosted Family...

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08-09-2003, 10:02 AM	#84 (permalink)
Innovator Blowing hot air Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Albany NY Trader Rating: (6)	Well, I did a lot of WOT on the way there and back, and due to the leaner condition, I used less gas Also, you are leaving the center honeycomb in (the one by the resistor that measures the air flow) so the air going past the sensor really is not more turbulent, it's just less.... Maybe some MAFs have shit the bed because the were manhandled too much. Either way, the whole proceedure is totally reversible if you aren't a putz

08-09-2003, 12:26 PM	#85 (permalink)
Quijinn 92 Dodge Stealth Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Louisville KY Drives: 92 Dodge stealth Trader Rating: (0)	question is there only one screw holding the primary honeycomd in place?? If so my thought might be over time that one screw might let go due to the honeycomb tring to pivot from the force on it, seems to me the parts would help hold each other in. I have not looked at it (at work) and just thought I would ask.

08-09-2003, 12:36 PM	#86 (permalink)
Innovator Blowing hot air Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Albany NY Trader Rating: (6)	No, there are 4 screws.

08-09-2003, 12:38 PM	#87 (permalink)
Quijinn 92 Dodge Stealth Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Louisville KY Drives: 92 Dodge stealth Trader Rating: (0)	cool deal, was just thinking that the turbo might not enjoy that snack

08-09-2003, 01:03 PM	#89 (permalink)
Innovator Blowing hot air Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Albany NY Trader Rating: (6)	Thanks... It's still all contained behind the center honeycomb that is left intact.