Getting the most out of your Apexi S-AFC= Stock MAF honeycomb removal - Page 19 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

Innovator · 08-17-2003, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by antero
If you're only running rich, just correct it with the SAFC. I wouldn't recommend taking the honeycombs out if you don't have some ways to correct the airflow signal at idle. The biggest reason for removing the honeycombs is to offset the huge correction factor needed on the SAFC after installing new injectors.

Unless you have already gutted you MAF, those AFC settings on your sig are very rich, judging by the dozen of these cars I've tunned. This is of course assuming you have 550 cc squirters, and not 450s.

BlackStealth · 08-17-2003, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Innovator

My car is faster all the way to redline though. Isn't yours?

My car has improved from idle till about 5000 rpms. After that it slows down. Perhaps my A/F mixture isn't ideal and still requires some fine tuning.

Innovator · 08-17-2003, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Eric_VR-4
I'll be trying this ASAP which means sometime this week. you leave the large middle honeycomb yes? How do you get them out if they are glued.. I did try tapping them out and it didn't work.. if I was to go any harder I would start to damage them.

They aren't glued in any MAF. Some are just stuck in mopre than others with residue.

Use some denatured alcohol to soften the deposits, and tap them out with a smooth blunt object. The back of a screw driver works for me

Innovator · 08-17-2003, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by antero

My car has improved from idle till about 5000 rpms. After that it slows down. Perhaps my A/F mixture isn't ideal and still requires some fine tuning.

It may be too rich or lean up top. What are your O2's saying? Although they aren't very accurate, they give you any idea at least. I'd stay above .93 after 5K. but not more than .95 .

Also, make sure your boost is staying stable above 5K.

BlackStealth · 08-17-2003, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Innovator

Unless you have already gutted you MAF, those AFC settings on your sig are very rich, judging by the dozen of these cars I've tunned. This is of course assuming you have 550 cc squirters, and not 450s.

Yeah, they are RC 550 injectors. They were leaner until I reached 0.80 bars of boost. After that I had to add more fuel to stop knock.

I'll update my signature tonight...

Innovator · 08-17-2003, 07:13 PM

Just to be clear on knock...

A little is a good thing. If you haven't got any, that usually means you are too rich or too retarded. Don't tune the car so it has no knock. That will make your car slow, and it won't last any longer, providing the knock is light.

If you have 550s you should be in the mid 30s up top with a virgin MAF and a good hotwired FP.

BlackStealth · 08-17-2003, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Innovator

It may be too rich or lean up top. What are your O2's saying? Although they aren't very accurate, they give you any idea at least. I'd stay above .93 after 5K. but not more than .95 .

Also, make sure your boost is staying stable above 5K.

Just checked my log at 5000 rpms. My front O2 is 0.98 volt, and the rear is 1.00 volts. Wow.

SpyderVR4 · 08-17-2003, 07:14 PM

For some reason the honeycombs are lightly glued on on some MAF. I've got 2 MAFs, one of them you can clearly feel and see the glue, and the other no glue what so ever. Any case, you can still push them out without damaging them even when they are glued on.

I took some folded tissue paper (cloth would work just as well) and a pen. Put the paper in first, and then push all around the edges gently with the pen. After you feel the honeycomb start to move, exert more force and it'll pop out.

BTW, my SAFC is also at somewhere around -15 right now with 550cc, O2 at WOT is around .94 to .96. Good to see we are all close.

Innovator · 08-17-2003, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by antero

Just checked my log at 5000 rpms. My front O2 is 0.98 volt, and the rear is 1.00 volts. Wow.

Yikes. You need to pull some fuel on that bitch

There rear will always read slightly lower than the front. I thing the front is more accurate because it's a bit cooler due to the steel manifold vs the rears cast one. The stock O2's are more accurate when they are cooler.

Innovator · 08-17-2003, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by antero

Yeah, they are RC 550 injectors. They were leaner until I reached 0.80 bars of boost. After that I had to add more fuel to stop knock.

I'll update my signature tonight...

So is your MAF gutted? If so, my car seems to like -30 after 5500. It was near -38 before the gutting. I have the FJO, so I'm pretty confident about my settings.

08-17-2003, 07:13 PM	#186 (permalink)
Innovator Blowing hot air Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Albany NY Trader Rating: (6)	Just to be clear on knock... A little is a good thing. If you haven't got any, that usually means you are too rich or too retarded. Don't tune the car so it has no knock. That will make your car slow, and it won't last any longer, providing the knock is light. If you have 550s you should be in the mid 30s up top with a virgin MAF and a good hotwired FP. Last edited by Innovator : 08-17-2003 at 07:24 PM.

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08-17-2003, 07:14 PM	#188 (permalink)
SpyderVR4 Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Framingham, MA Drives: 1995 Spyder VR4 Trader Rating: (0)	For some reason the honeycombs are lightly glued on on some MAF. I've got 2 MAFs, one of them you can clearly feel and see the glue, and the other no glue what so ever. Any case, you can still push them out without damaging them even when they are glued on. I took some folded tissue paper (cloth would work just as well) and a pen. Put the paper in first, and then push all around the edges gently with the pen. After you feel the honeycomb start to move, exert more force and it'll pop out. BTW, my SAFC is also at somewhere around -15 right now with 550cc, O2 at WOT is around .94 to .96. Good to see we are all close.