electronic PCV system?

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by SHiVeR-91VR4

That's a lot of on/off to be doing. It would probably be better to run the pump all the time (since voltage would be constant) and put a inline regulator on the line to regulate it to no more than 14" or so.

I was thinking that too, it would really be bouncing on and off ALOT. I can just put a needle valve in there to limit it. Don't know if a Vac regulator exists that I can get a hold of. Although that would be ideal. Some type of limiting vacuum valve that would close at 14" and reopen under that.

I am thinking maybe an MBC working in reverse.

[SHiVeR-91VR4]

That's exactly what I was thinking.

The thing too, would be nice if you could put it where the rear valve cover hose goes to the intake. Therefore, you could still pull in some fresh air to clear out the old air in there while you are using vacuum. But if your vacuum pump cant keep up you will spew oil out of there.

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by SHiVeR-91VR4

That's exactly what I was thinking.

The thing too, would be nice if you could put it where the rear valve cover hose goes to the intake. Therefore, you could still pull in some fresh air to clear out the old air in there while you are using vacuum. But if your vacuum pump cant keep up you will spew oil out of there.

in the setup I have pictured here the rear vents to a filter and with the pump going all the time just limited to max inches of hG, it should always have a constant flow of air going thru the system. If I am thinking wrong, please explain, I think we are learning still

[xeudoxus]

It would be very simple to have a "BASIC STAMP" do all of the controlling

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by xeudoxus

It would be very simple to have a "BASIC STAMP" do all of the controlling

No reasons to get complicated electronics involved
Not that it couldn't be done, but simple mechanical control in my opinion is easier and less prone to fault.

[SHiVeR-91VR4]

exactly.

The only problem i see with the "fully open" filter on the rear cover is it could possibly cause too much air to be drawn in and if the pump can't handle that extra CFM, then it won't hit 14".

So possibly putting a needle valve in the hose there, or restricting the size of the hose to a very small diameter may help. I guess it all depends really on how much this pump can do.

[SHiVeR-91VR4]

I'm also wondering about an electric pump going full bore on a street car. I know in your case it doesn't matter, but I wonder how quick these things will die.

The drag cars use the mechanical pump off the main belt, and it is only good for 300 or so passes before it needs rebuilt. That is a big no-no for a street driven car. So maybe the elec ones are more reliable.

A controller might be needed so you can have a lower voltage at idle and peak it up to + 14v at WOT. Hell, you could do this with a simple switch that is boost activated to switch from a voltage divider on the +14v source to the full B+ voltage....exactly like our fuel pump does.

This will preserve the motor, because I don't think you need the full 14" at idle.

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by SHiVeR-91VR4

exactly.

The only problem i see with the "fully open" filter on the rear cover is it could possibly cause too much air to be drawn in and if the pump can't handle that extra CFM, then it won't hit 14".

So possibly putting a needle valve in the hose there, or restricting the size of the hose to a very small diameter may help. I guess it all depends really on how much this pump can do.

Ahh, but stock it's the same way. The rear cover is the PCV systems fresh air source, it's nothing more than what I am doing with a small filter on the rear valve cover, except it is using the car's much larger air filter. Same air inlet. I don't think there will be an issue.

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by SHiVeR-91VR4

I'm also wondering about an electric pump going full bore on a street car. I know in your case it doesn't matter, but I wonder how quick these things will die.

The drag cars use the mechanical pump off the main belt, and it is only good for 300 or so passes before it needs rebuilt. That is a big no-no for a street driven car. So maybe the elec ones are more reliable.

A controller might be needed so you can have a lower voltage at idle and peak it up to + 14v at WOT. Hell, you could do this with a simple switch that is boost activated to switch from a voltage divider on the +14v source to the full B+ voltage....exactly like our fuel pump does.

This will preserve the motor, because I don't think you need the full 14" at idle.

Well, OEMs have done it for many years.

Buick
82 Skyhawk-J
82- 85 Skylark-X

Pontiac
85-86 6000
82 J2000
82-84 Phoenix-X
Chevrolet
84-86 Celebrity-A
82 Caprice-B
82 Cavalier-J
82-85 Citation-X
Cadillac
82 Cimmaron

Oldsmobile
86 Cierra-A
82 Firenza-J
82-84 Omega-X
Others
93-95 Z-28 and some 96 BOP
Caddy's in 90-96

Ford Escort & Mercury Lynx diesel cars

They all used a vac pump for brake booster since the car's couldn't provide enough vac on thier own. And they last for years.
http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/vacuum-pumps.html

[J-Ville VR-4]

Originally Posted by Import Power

in the setup I have pictured here the rear vents to a filter and with the pump going all the time just limited to max inches of hG, it should always have a constant flow of air going thru the system. If I am thinking wrong, please explain, I think we are learning still

I guess you may have missed my earlier post.

Originally Posted by J-Ville VR-4

The rear valve cover line is not for fresh air, its ONLY purpose is to relieve blowby pressure while the car is in boost since there is no vacuum at that time. You do not need fresh air in the crankcase at all, vacuum is all that we want.

Good luck with the pump, it looks like it wil have some potential. That pic that Eric_VR-4 posted a few posts back is a good example of how to set it all up.

Here's the pic. EDIT: make sure the stock PCV valve is drilled out if you go with this setup.