Cross Drilling the crank - stop spun bearings ?

[Jim Floyd]

One of the techniques used by the V-8 guys to increase oil flow to the main bearings is to cross drill the crank at 90 degress to the original factory oiling hole. Would this technique provide any benefit to our engines, especially the spun bearing problem ?

[JRC]

Do we have a large spun bearing problem? I wasn't aware. I know we have a lot of "over 100k eninges", but I didn't perceive it as a problem.

[TajMan]

I swear I've read a thread on here were someone already suggested that.

[Bret Brinkmann]

It has been suggested several times. I'm under the impression that guys will cross drill the crank if they have one oil port every 360 degrees to give one every 180 degrees. We all ready have one every 180 degrees. I have never heard of one every 90. In any case, I agree with JRC's post. Just replace the bearings around 100K.

The more I think about this supossed oil pressure problem the more I wonder if it really exist in the first place. I'd really like to hear from some one with an after market oil pressure gauge who has compaired before and after results of an oil pump swap.

[Jim Floyd]

Originally Posted by Bret Brinkmann

It has been suggested several times. I'm under the impression that guys will cross drill the crank if they have one oil port every 360 degrees to give one every 180 degrees. We all ready have one every 180 degrees. I have never heard of one every 90. In any case, I agree with JRC's post. Just replace the bearings around 100K.

The more I think about this supossed oil pressure problem the more I wonder if it really exist in the first place. I'd really like to hear from some one with an after market oil pressure gauge who has compaired before and after results of an oil pump swap.

That is what I was asking; if it is worth it to drill another hole all the way through to have oil coming out every 90 degrees or would this weaken the crank too much ?

I went from a factory oil gage to a GReddy on the same engine. The factory gage was always hanging one or two hash marks from the bottom at idle - the GReddy says that is 15-16 PSI in my engine. I'm told the Mitsubishi manual says we need at least 11.5 PSI to prevent engine failure.

[Bret Brinkmann]

That is the pressure listing for "spec". You can have less and not have engien failure. Although your long term duribility will probably suffer. Oil every 90 degrees shouldn't be needed. It should also be noted that just because the gauge reads low doesn't mean the gauge has a problem. I have read other posts stateing there stock gauge read higher after changeing out the sending unit. Still the OEM gauges are more like idiot lights. It should be federal law that every one has to get after market guages.

[Jim Floyd]

Originally Posted by Bret Brinkmann

That is the pressure listing for "spec". You can have less and not have engien failure. Although your long term duribility will probably suffer. Oil every 90 degrees shouldn't be needed. It should also be noted that just because the gauge reads low doesn't mean the gauge has a problem. I have read other posts stateing there stock gauge read higher after changeing out the sending unit. Still the OEM gauges are more like idiot lights. It should be federal law that every one has to get after market guages.

Here is some crazy shit. The idiot light on the dash still comes on and it is NOT EVEN HOOKED UP

[Bret Brinkmann]

If you unplug the low pressure switch the light in the instrument panel will always be on.

[Jim Floyd]

Originally Posted by Bret Brinkmann

If you unplug the low pressure switch the light in the instrument panel will always be on.

Seems to come on the most when I'm in 6th gear.
When I look at the GReddy I have around 36 PSI as it flashes.
Usually it's not on.

[Bret Brinkmann]

Is it touching the engine block or anything? It could be a "lose connection" situation.