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#1 (permalink) |
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ntcmpjg
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i posted this here so everyone could see it. i don't think that its a NA problem
well i just started having a problem with my aftermarket alarm. when i hit the unlock button on my key fob the door locks shutter and relock them self. i have check the aftermarket alarm. the factory one was DISABLED when the new alarm was installed. it just started one day after hit the remote start button on my alarm. if the car matters its a 1995 Fed Spec R/T DOHC. also when i stick the key in the passanger door to unlock it, the car does the same thing. Thanks Jeff
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Best Mod Ever!!!! Hit While Parked!!!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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This is a common problem. There are several threads that address this issue. The locking mechanizm on the driver’s door affects both doors. Over time the mechanism can get dirty and the manual lock does not fully move to the unlock position. The electronics think that you are trying to manually lock the doors so it re-locks. Take off the inside door panel, clean and lube the manual locking mechanism and you should be good to go.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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I still say clean all the manual lock parts in the drivers door. When you use the key to unlock the passenger door it sends an electrical signal to the drivers door to unlock too. If the manual parts don't fully open the doors will relock. The remote works the same way, sending a signal to the drivers door to unlock. If you use the key in the driver's door you are manually moving the lock and it fully opens.
Mine was doing the same thing. I tried everything I could think of, even going as far as replacing the switches. Cleaning and lubing the manual lock parts inside the driver's door (everything from the latch to the inside door handle) is what fixed it. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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ntcmpjg
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#8 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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try on the driver door, while you unlock it manually push the lock switch to the unlocked position at the same time (to assist it). It can be either door but it can get hung, really if you search for it info on how to fix it perm is available.
edit: btw the rear actuator would work independantly of the doors lock/unlock function so has nothing to do with the problem you are having.
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1992 Stealth R/T
![]() Drive Train/Performance: Aem FPR (Rob's adapter), DR650r's, Borla Cat-Back, Dejon Intake / Blow Through Setup, GM Maf / Maf-T, Greddy E-Manage (Blue), Greddy E-01 Boost controller, Greddy Type RS BOV, Maximal Performance Solid Motor Mounts, MSD Ignition Wires, Optima Yellow Top Battery, Spec Stage 3 6 puck Clutch, Walbro Fuel Pump. Exterior/Appearance: 1999 3000GT Front Bumper, Headlamps and Turn Signals, Second Generation Stealth Hood, Side Skirts/Door Caps, Rear Bumper and OEM 96 Wing. Interior: Cianci Triple 60mm Gauge Pod (matching passenger side replacement), Greddy Counter Weight Shift Knob, Greddy Silver 60mm P/H/W Gauges (center replacement and gauge pod), LC-1 Wide Band, M515 PDA/MMCD Data Logger, Seattle Roller Bearing Short Throw Shifter. Suspension/Wheels: Black Racing Pro N1 17x9 Wheels, Cusco Front and Rear Strut Bars, Ground Control Coil Overs (Stock ECS Struts), Stealth TT Brake Upgrade. Soon To Come: A drivable car!!!! To Do: Finish building/Install motor, Install Water/Meth Injection, Tune Properly, Paint and Install AWD Conversion parts (after motor break in/tuned). |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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ntcmpjg
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