Ride quality HORRIBLE after Ksport Coilover install!

[BigTyla]

Originally Posted by Jerggy13

I have them adjusted with about 2-3 turns of preload on the front and rear springs. Just enough to keep them tight.

When talking about preload you are talking about the spring collars right? Because I don't recall even turning them that much. Hmmmm.

I have the shock dampening adjusted half a turn from the lowest setting and it's still pretty bad. Then again I drive this car a lot so that makes it more annoying. It wouldn't be quite as bad if I had my beater running.

[Rcl1221]

I just got my car back from the shop today, and they installed my k-sports (among other things, including your ground-wires bigtyla). They adjusted it, and the ride is only slightly stiffer than my kyb gr2's w/ stock springs. It feels really tight, and pretty good. + I love not being able to fit little children and civics in the wheel gap;

[BigTyla]

I have a question about adjusting the preload. Since I'll be relaxing the spring, wouldn't that adjust the height of the car? I'm trying to remember the design of the coilovers but I can't get a good picture in my head.

[BigTyla]

Originally Posted by Rcl1221

I just got my car back from the shop today, and they installed my k-sports (among other things, including your ground-wires bigtyla). They adjusted it, and the ride is only slightly stiffer than my kyb gr2's w/ stock springs. It feels really tight, and pretty good. + I love not being able to fit little children and civics in the wheel gap;

No problems with the ground wire install I assume?

[Highboosted]

Too much preload affects the ride height also. So once you remove the preload you probly will have to fix ride height again. It used to be that preload WAS your ride height adjustment. And still is on cheap "coil overs".

[DennisVR97]

Originally Posted by BigTyla

Does anyone that has installed these have any tips for me? I have heard from many that installed these that ride quality was about the same or not much worse than stock. The car handles like a dream but going over bumpy roads or bridges is like riding in a rickity roller coaster.

I installed the coilovers three or four weeks ago and it was aligned immediately afterward. The camber is well within spec but the ride is so bumpy I have to grip the steering wheel tightly with both hands so it doesn't jerk out of my hands when going over a bridge on the highway. I have adjusted the shocks to minimum stiffness and there has been a minimal change in bumpiness. What was done wrong? Is it possible that something was tightened a little too tightly, like the two washers that go against the spring? Or was everyone lying when they said ride quality was close to stock?

Someone help!

I've had Teins for about 4 years and now the KSports. I wasn't about to make the same mistake I made with the Teins when I installed the KSports. The spring rates of the KSports, although not as high as the Teins, are still much higher than the stock units. So, I took the springs from the rear units (7kgs) and moved them to the front and purchased 5kgs for the rear. This bumped the overall rate up but kept the F:R ratio stock at 1.4:1. The additional roll stiffness I get from Saner front and rear anti-roll bars. (I have the car lowered about 1.75 in all around)

I do occasional autocrossing and like a spirited drive on the road, but never put my car on a track ........ if I did I'd buy the stiffer springs for then.

Car rides reasonably well and handles very well for the street. Although lowered that much, you have to be careful with driveways and over uneven pavement. Pay-back is rock solid stability at any speed and in most driving situations.

Dennis

[BigTyla]

Yeah, I think I would have ordered slightly different spring rates if I had to do it over again, but I think I can correct the problem by adjusting the preload now.

My only concern is lowering the car even more when adjusting preload. I could keep it the same by simply adjusting the height from the bottom, but then I'd have to disconnect the bottoms from the control arms and I'm afraid I may compromise the alignment. Does anyone else foresee this?

[DennisVR97]

Originally Posted by BigTyla

Yeah, I think I would have ordered slightly different spring rates if I had to do it over again, but I think I can correct the problem by adjusting the preload now.

My only concern is lowering the car even more when adjusting preload. I could keep it the same by simply adjusting the height from the bottom, but then I'd have to disconnect the bottoms from the control arms and I'm afraid I may compromise the alignment. Does anyone else foresee this?

Preload should be minimal anyway which won't appreciably change the rate. In the long run it'll be better to change the springs. 5-10 minutes each to switch the springs. Hour to R&R the both rear shocks and 1-2 for the fronts. Yup ....... I'd get it re-aligned just to be safe. You won't regret the improved ride.

BTW ...... did you lower the car? How much? Did you consider adjustable rear upper control arms to compensate?

Dennis

[BigTyla]

Originally Posted by 93RTTurbo

After I put my K-Sports on, mine rode terribly at first, as well. I do think there is a break in period. Either that, or I'm just used to it! It was awful. It felt like the whole rear would jump when I went over a groove in the road, and sounded like it crashed back down.

Now, it feels like the "sport" setting on the ECS felt like. A little rough, but not unacceptable.

After I had it aligned, and drove a month or so, it wasn't so bad. But what made the biggest difference after that, was replacing the ... trying to think what it's called...carrier assembly? I think? It wasn't expensive...like $27 a side from Rockville Mitsubishi, and you have to buy the special nuts separately. It's in the rear suspension.

But the way you are describing it, sounds like yours is maxed out, as far as lowering it. Not sure if you remember my car from the BRG, but I have them, and they are set right in the middle of the settings.

Here's a picture of my car, lightened so you can see the contrast between the body and the wheelwells. It's been lowered some, but not as far as you are describing...right down to the tires practically. Also the photo from my sig file shows the remaining wheel gap. I didn't want it to ride too low, not with speedbumps and so on.

I do have the 3SX adjustable rear control arms.

Didn't realize you had Ksports on then!

My car is a little lower than that. When I try to fit my hand into my front fender, it will jam my knuckles, but the rear is high enough to fit three fingers (width) into. I decided to keep it that way since I'm FWD so I could give the car a little front bias. You can't get a good idea from my sig because it's so dark. It's not maxed in the rear but the front is pretty close because I took a corner VERY fast recently and the front tires scrubbed the inside of the wheel wells slightly.

The suspension has been driven over 1000 miles now, so I would think any break-in period would be over. Maybe it will take a little longer.

Dennis - I did not need control arms in the rear because I did not lower it enough to need them. The camber is zeroed out the way it is now. I can only describe lowering in terms of fingers since I didn't take measurements before and after.

[ProwlerGT]

Originally Posted by Jerggy13

I have had my ksports on my car since march. I know I have put over 10-15k miles on them.

I have them adjusted with about 2-3 turns of preload on the front and rear springs. Just enough to keep them tight. As far as adjustment on the stiffness of the dampening you cant run it all the way soft, the car will bounce. Go ahead and run it about halfway and try it out. My car is stiff but it is very comfortable. And hell I also am running front and rear sway bars and toe and camber arms in the rear.

Once you get them dialed in for your car, you will love them.

I have a set for my NA laying in my garage. They are going on soon. Did yours come with an instruction manual? Was it obvious? or do I need to seek a terminology lesson from someone? I bought them after seeing countless people happy with them on the forum till this thread. LOL - I sure don't like hesitating to install something that cost me $900. lol