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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I am going to be installing some ground control coilver conversions on my 3000GT VR4 and I know some of you will scoff at the idea, however, I'm on a tight budget. What I'm wondering is has anybody subsituted in their own combination of main spring and tender spring? Or has anybody used progressive eibach springs?
On Jeff Lucius's GC install page he recommends using: 6" length/2.5"I.D./500lb/in in front and 8" length/2.5"I.D./360lb/in in the rear. So, in choosing tender springs, should the height of the tender spring + main spring = 6" in front and 8" in the back? If so, then that creates a problem. The shortest 2.5" I.D. main spring eibach makes is 6". I know some people have complained these height of springs loose contact with the top of the strut base when the wheels are at full droop (off the ground). Could this be fixed by using tender springs, or would I need to have helper springs as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R turbos, Snow stage 2D alky kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Dual feed fuel system with Aeromotive FPR & filter, Hotwired Supra pump, ek2mfg plenum spacer, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted precats and test pipe, Maximal solid mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, RPS flywheel, GC coilover conversions with helper springs, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines, Hawk pads (front), Stillen metal matrix pads (rear)
Last edited by DoctorDex : 11-26-2007 at 11:04 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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king of ghetto
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OK, I think I need to explain the difference in tender springs and helper springs.
Tender springs have almost 0 spring rate, all they are supposed to do is keep a little compression on the main spring to keep it from unseating at full extension. Notice these are flat, because they are fully compressed all the time. Helper springs have a significant spring rate, around 1/4-1/2 the main spring rate (or whatever required to be able to support the weight of the car without compressing fully). Turns a single rate spring into a sorta progressive setup, while limiting the progressive rate's tendancy to be a bit "unpredictable" or "unstable" on the track. These are more round, but should still have flat tops and bottoms of coils because they should "bottom out" alot. Now thats covered, we can move on. If your getting tenders, then you do not subtract the height of the spring, because they are fully compressed normally and only have a thickness of like 1/2 inch. If getting helper springs, then you do need to subtract the height of the new spring. The important thing to know is how much adjustment room you have with GC's (I don't know), I can assume you have plenty, so I'd use at least 6" springs with helpers anyways. You want the longest spring you can use. Another point. Check Sprint Springs, they are well known in the racing community for quality and have a HUGE selection, including 4 inch springs if you really want them.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check it out. Last edited by DoctorDex : 11-26-2007 at 11:04 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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king of ghetto
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