ECS/Tour-Sport mode.

[Joel_CA]

Originally Posted by JRC

Joel:
I'll have to check that out further myself. It takes two people to actually peform that test so obviously I have never done it, so I am not doubting you. Since you say Mitsu had a TB on it and you have worked on these cars from what I see professionally I can't dispute that. I don't however believe every TB Mitsu puts out and do know that leaning on the atuators does cause wire breakage more than anything else.
The one thing you mentioned I do have to question about the bolts. They can not be removed because that is what holds the upper part of the strut to the car body along with the actuator. You can remove the bolts to remove the actuator, but they must be replaced to do any sort of test on movement. It also does not make sense to me logically because the strut is not mounted to the rotating assembly but rather the A-frame and the A frame does not rotate. The wheel rotates off the end of the A-frame.
My 91 had stranded wires on the actuator and every one people sent me to repair also had stranded wires. It also wouldn't make sense to place solid wires in a location that Mitsu claims does rotate. Mitsu also does call the wire assembly an Actuator. I guess their reasoning is it does supply the wires to "actuate" the strut. This is evidenced in the parts directory and the packaging itself calling it an "Actuator" The only thing in the strut itself is the servo motor. I have no idea when I will perform this test, so for now I will just agree to disagree till I find out for myself later.
Thanks for your input though. I had no idea Mitsu had a TB on it. I had this problem and solved it and posted results back in 98 when I first got the car and nothing up till now has disputed it as to the cause, so I will remember to check it to see if what you say is true. I do know once I installed the PVC caps to protect the wires from me leaning on it, I have never had the problem again, so if it is caused by a rotating action, it hasn't repeated itself in my case and you would think it would. If that is the major cause the protective caps would have no effect as rotation would still be occuring.

They never launched a TSB on the matter as stated- they simply provided a Tech Talk article advising technicians where to look. As far as the 3 bolts- so long as the vehicle is on the ground, you can unbolt the 3 bolts without anything happening. Simply turning the steering wheel completely to the right and turning in completely to the left and you'll see that the entire strut shaft moves with the ECS connector.

J

[elvatoli]

When it happened to me, the problem was that the top of the shocks were broken and I cant notice.
The other problem was that my suspension computer has some leaks, so I have to replace it for $220
The electronic shocks cost me around $80 dlls each

Hector

[VR4's-Kick-Ass]

You guys have lights on your steering wheel???

[bad84kat]

Have you tried using a meter and reading what fault code you have? That will send you to the right corner of the car if it is a strut issue.

My issue was a failled rear strut. I read the code (pointed me toward the driverside rear) then I went to the wrecker and bought some use rear caps(short wiring harness) lenghtend them out and cross connected them up and checked the code again, it said driverside rear again so I knew it was the strut not the wiring.

Do a search for the OEM shock maker then look for part number cross reference. The cheapest way to get replacement ECS struts.

[spydir]

I have an SL and my Tour/Sport light has been off for over a year now. Do you think the bulb might be gone or do I need to look elsewhere to find the problem.

[carsoncars]

on my left strut the ECS wires one is cut off smothly and the others are cut on one side, i cant reach the broken wire in the cap very vell and was wondering if theres a way to pull the white inside peice out that the wires are on away from the part the plugs into the strut?