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#1 (permalink) |
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Here for the tuna.
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Changed my front brakes on Friday - from 4 year old ebay rotors and pads to new carbotech slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads. It went alright except for pushing the pistons back up in the calipers - IT WAS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE!!! I opened the bleeder valve and everything, and struggled pushing them back up. I did not use a clamp of any kind, just my hands / a wrench handle. How hard is it for everyone else? I fear that I may be in need of new calipers ...
![]() -Ryan |
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#2 (permalink) |
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1992 Stealth R/T
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I used a big clamp on mine, it was easy enough without opening any bleeder valve, just tightened the clamp 'till the boots were flush in the caliper. I used a super cheap clamp from autozone. Never thought about using my hands...always used clamps or turning tools if the rear calipers were the screw type (these aren't, but my MR2's were). Given the amount of torque I had to apply to the clamp...I'd assume it would be a real bitch without it.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Norcal3S.com
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really? nice! lol
i've always used this brake tool from the local parts store. it was like $15. looks kinda like this except plastic and much simpler ![]()
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![]() ![]() 13T's + Supporting Mods|DSM SMIC's|K-Sport Coilovers|Battery in Trunk Alchy Injection|Saner Sway Bars|Bronze 17x9 FN01R-C's|3" Straight Pipe 1996 Grand Cherokee: My DD, 4" Lift and 31" Tires ![]() 1992 VR-4: My Weekend Warrior ![]() Last edited by slage : 05-27-2008 at 02:38 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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July 2003
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Here's another way to do it (yeah using your bare hands can be a little tough).
When you remove one side of the used pads, you then have enough wiggle space to fit a prybar to against the other used pad to squeeze the pistons back in. Leave the cap open on the brake master cylinder though. Max
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1994 3000GT VR-4. Hobbies... what are hobbies? Oh, those things people do when they're NOT working on their cars?
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#9 (permalink) | |
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In Training
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Quote:
I didn't torque any bolts! They are talking about pushing the pistons back in. |
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