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Axle removal walkthrough?

43K views 36 replies 25 participants last post by  Bonny 3kgt99 
#1 ·
Is there a walkthrough on how to remove our axles? Seems like my CV joints are going out and going to install a set of Raxles.com axles
 
#2 ·
No "official" walkthrough that I know of, but the job is fairly easy. Unbolt the a-arms from the subframe, undo the axle nuts, pull out the axles. On the driver's side you have the jackshaft bracket (2 bolts holding it to the block that are awkward to reach but easy enough to find if you just follow the halfshaft in towards the trans). On the passenger side you'll need to pop the axle out of the trans because it has a c-clip. Use a wedge of some kind and a hammer instead of a prybar. I find that prying takes forever and damages the case. Hammer and wedge are quicker and less violent. Just don't blast on it too hard.

Clint
 
#6 ·
here ya go

wheels (cotter pins, break axles nuts now since you have brakes)
calipers(hang em up).
rotors
axle nuts off

downpipe(worst part of the job).
mark your aligment on your struts(top bolts) and loosen them
remove the bolt that holds the abs to the dust shield so you dont pull the wire

two bolts that hold the brace up top above the downpipe(center axle support)
undo support from the block so axle is free
undo the strut bolts and wiggle the axle out, may need to tap it out.
wiggle while you turn the hubs down and watch your ball joint covers, may pop off or if old may rip.

pop the axles out of the tranny, i use a huge screwdriver at the tranny
 
#7 ·
Also, when you are removing the passenger side axle, if it does not want to come out, try rotating it a bit and trying again. I had to do this maybe 5 or 6 times when I removed my tranny, but it helped alot with getting the axel out.
 
#8 ·
Why are you guys removing so much stuff to get the axles out? I just unbolt the castle nut bolts, take the strut bolts and the ABS and brake line support clamps off. I turn the wheel all the way out, tilt the whole hub down and push the axles out from the hub with a long screwdriver. Then I use a pry bar to pop the side with the c clips out of the intermediate bearing on the drivers side and tranny on the passenger side. I have replaced my axles twice and never took the a-arms off and never took the down pipe off, just the brakes and strut bottom...........but then I had to get the car re-aligned.
Also, there was no bolts holding the inside of the CVs into the bracket, just c-clips

Sam
 
#10 ·
i am with you, i have never dropped the a arm.
 
#9 ·
Argh. OK, I am having no luck breaking loose the axle nut. Lots of rust. I blocked up a wheel stud and when I try to turn nut it compresses the spring so that I can't get a ton of torque on it. I've been PB Blastering it for two days, and last night tried a propane torch which I guess doesn't come near to getting it hot enough. Will MAP gas do it? Or do I need oxy-acetylene?

Paul T
 
#13 ·
stfuad and speedy, thanks for the comments. It turned out that the MAPP gas alone did it (with the big nozzel on the tank). After about 5-10 min it turned just fine.

Biggest problem I think was that I had the wheel off when trying to undo the axle nut... lesson learned, next time break it loose on the ground then put it up. I couldn't get a whole lot of torque on it and didn't think to put it in gear which would have helped to.

So Speedy did you leave the rotors on when you did the clutch? I'll have to go look at the lower A-arms again... I was just in here to find out what size the rotor holes are for threading in a bolt to force them off. Altho, the rotors look like crap too so taking them off and having them resurfaced wouldn't be such a bad idea at this point since everything else is out of the way.

Thanks guys.

Hey, stfuad... just noticed your in Syracuse. Go Orange! My wife went to SU. Next time you're at the Dinosaur save me some ribs!<G>
 
#15 ·
So Speedy did you leave the rotors on when you did the clutch? I'll have to go look at the lower A-arms again... I was just in here to find out what size the rotor holes are for threading in a bolt to force them off. Altho, the rotors look like crap too so taking them off and having them resurfaced wouldn't be such a bad idea at this point since everything else is out of the way.
Of course I left them on! I never do extra work if I dont have to.

Unbolting the lower a-arms is very easy (except for rusty vehicles, requires no realigning of anything and theres more than enough room to remove axles.

8x1.25 is the size of the bolts that can help remove the rotors, but if they are crap, just pull off the calipers and mounts and use some hammer work to knock them off. Make sure your caliper pistons are OK while you have the calipers off.

-SP
 
#16 ·
i have to do this tomorrow, and am confused as to what the term a-arms stands for...could some one shed some light on this?i have replaced both lower control arms, but i dont know what the a-arms are...please help as i need the car early tomorrow so i have to this this done asap, and not have to get it realigned...
 
#17 ·
the a-arm is the lower control arm, they are shaped like an A.
 
#19 ·
If you are removing your A-arm and downpipe you are doing WAYYY too much work. Do just like Wraith said, his method is the most straightforward simplest way. I do it that way, too.

As for the passenger side, take a 2x4 or a 1 foot long piece of wood, my dad has a 1x1" piece of wood that is PERFECT for this. Take the piece of wood and place it on the green housing of the axle. Hit the wood and the axle will come out. Works every time.
 
#21 ·
thanks for the info, i did replace the whole half shaft, came with boots and greased up and ready to put on the car...for like $68+ some change

i just dropped the control arm and left it hanging by the ball joint, and the axle nut came off easy as well...did it in half an hour, i was surprised as to how easy it was, specially with an impact wrench to take those control arm bolts from under the car...very easy indeed :D
 
#23 ·
Hard Attack...whats the quotation for? i can read,and as stated it is done, and only took me 30 minutes, and easier then removing the suspension bolts and brake clamp out...i know that cus i changed my own suspension and those bolts where a bitch....dropping the control arm was very easy specially with a impact wrench, and everything went smooth and is done, and if i had to do it again, i would do it the same way.
 
#24 ·
Anyone remember the size of the axle nut?
 
#25 ·
Umm, I just replaced a wheel bearing about an hour ago, but I knew what socket it was diont remember the size though. i think its 32mm, let me check...

Yep 32mm, you could do a google seach if you want to look for yourself. "3000gt axle nut size" Google is good.
 
#31 ·
The clip never comes off it stays on the axle, once I disconnected the axle from the hub I got a long crow bar and lil by lil moved the axle out of the tranny, the c clip isnt big at all so it wasnt hard at all. I'm putting in a new engine so I had to remove both axles and upon doing so I found my passenger side axles boot was ripped in 2 places so I bought a new axle from advanced auto.

Here's a pic of my new axle and the c clip

 
#34 ·
Since this thread is revived, I'm also having problems getting my driver's front axle back into the transmission. It's about 1/4"-1/2" shy of lining up the bracket with its screwholes. Does anyone have a solution for this? Should I try a mallet to get it seated properly in the transmission or is it supposed to just slide in and seat itself?
 
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