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#1 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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So I've done a ton of research on this site and google.
This past weekend I test drove a 92 3000gt with 102,000 miles on it. The owner had the car sitting in his lawn for the last year, inspection went out in March of 07. When test riving, the car ran great. We did that paper work and I headed home (About 20 miles). On the way home, the car devolped a bad knock. My roomate and I immiediatly pulled off the head, and everything up top checked out okay. The oil in the motor was brand new so it seemed. All of the internals were spotless except the plugs that needed replaced, but they wern't horrible. All of the service records from 20,000-95,000 were in the vehicle. So I started doing some research and found a video on youtube with a guy that had the exact same knock. As per the advice of many of you on here and youtube(), it was said to be a spun rod bearing. I followed everyones directions on checking it. I dropped the pan this morning, and DID find metal shavings. I had to drop some of the subframe just to get the pan out from under the car. So now that the pan is out. What do I want to do to verify it is the bearings? What will I see, what can I test. Im going to replace all of them, but how do I go about replacing them, will I be able to from under the vehicle, is there more to remove? Ive replaced the wipers, radiator, fuel pump, oil pump, air/cabin/fuel/oil filters, pcv valve, brakes and rotors all around, spark plugs, put in a good aftermarket deck, and completly scrubbed the entire vehicle. I've even drained all the gas (only like an 8th tank) and replaced with fresh gas and fuel treatment. Is there anything else i should do now that I've got everything pulled apart? Cliffnotes: 1. How do I verify I have a spun rod bearing once the oil pan is off? 2. How do I replace it? 3. What other services should I render while getting the vehicle up to par? Last edited by ih8civx : 05-08-2008 at 09:22 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Certified Car Nut
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1) Grab the big end of each rod with your hand and try to shake it and to see if there's movement. Most times with a spun bearing, you will be able to shake the rod enough that you will hear the knocking noise as the rod beats against the crankshaft. If you don't find a loose one, pull the cap off of each rod and check to see that both bearing halves are still there and in good condition. You will probably find that on one of the rods, one of the bearing halves is sandwiched between the other bearing half and the crankshaft.
2) In most cases, if a rod bearing has spun, the crankshaft gets scored and damaged, and in many cases, the rod, too. To fix this, the crankshaft has to be removed and turned, and the rod replaced. Thise means you'll need to replace all the rod bearings. To replace a rod, the head has to be removed. 3) So while you're there, you might as well pull both heads, pull all the pistons, re-ring them, and replace all the bearings, mains too. And the oil pump as well.
__________________
Jeff W.
Red '92 VR4 211,000 mile daily driver that run's 11's! Once I convinced the wife I needed 600hp to drive to work every day, the rest was easy ![]() Big 16G Turbos w/adapter plates, DR Stage 3 heads, 92mm Wiseco pistons, PTE 680cc injectors, Pre-cat eliminators w/dump tubes, ARC2 fuel controller, HKS Twin-Power Ignition, HKS EVC IV BC, HKS SSBOV, Alamo I/C's and HardPipe kit, ATR DP, Borla exhaust, NeedsWings Electronic Exhaust Cutout, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, Denso Stage1 fuel pump, Home-made Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit, South Bend FE/SS clutch, Boost Cooler water/meth injection, DynoTech Metal-Matrix aluminum driveshaft, no cats, Eibach lowering springs, Stillen rotors & pads, Goodrich SS brake lines, PSI Tire Pressure Monitor System, AEM Wide-Band O2, Fittipaldi Design wheels, custom 2-tone all-leather Interior. |
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