Putting heads back on a 95 SL. Need a clear, definate answer. .

[Forest Gump]

yeah I've done that before, just be careful to keep the debris out of the engine.

[keithmac]

I build bike engines at work and every time I fit the cams after torquing the head down, I would do the same on the car.

I don't re-torque fasteners either, do it in 4 stages up to final spec in specific order (inside to outside) and job done. Obviously if manufacturer demands otherwise follow their procedure.

[VICKS6G72T]

Dont scotchbright the head you can make it unflat if you scrub to hard, block should be fine if done by hand. make shure you don't get crap in you oil passages and coolant passages, you probably did ...If your block is in your car still, I would crank it over a bit to pump the gasket material out the oil passage, it can get in your heads and cause all kinds of problems as for torquing the heads ,I always do it buy the book let it sit for a day than retorque it a little tighter backing off a little can be good but unnessary better to retorque a fue times you will be suprised it will seem like thay get loose some how(just the gasket crushing)get arps will save you time and money in the long hall no cheap gaskets

[R1pilot83]

I have MLS gaskets for the heads. The heads are clean as they were completely redone. The scotchbright part makes me nervous but I have spent a week trying to get the block shiny like I know it should be for new gaskets. I am scrotchbrighting by hand. Really it should not be this difficult, but it has been a huge pain in my A$$. I blocked off my oil passages with shop rag pieces. I vacuum too as I go.

[VICKS6G72T]

your probably good than just do it nothing to it .

[westcott]

Originally Posted by RealMcCoy

You realize there is a different torque spec for ARP lube VS. motor oil...?

Back to the OP:

If using the factory procedure including the factory torque spec, I would recommend sticking with motor oil.

Agreed. I only recommend motor oil unless using ARP studs\nuts\bolts. They do have a different torque spec. for their hardware with lube.

I too am pleased that the OP used a tap. Nice work.

And extra points for trying to verify what someone "said".

When in doubt, do exactly what the service manual says.

[Forest Gump]

you'd have to try really hard to put waves in the block with scotchbrite by hand.

[Forest Gump]

A minor correction. A thread "chaser" should be used to clean threads. Taps remove material.

[westcott]

Originally Posted by R1pilot83

I have MLS gaskets for the heads. The heads are clean as they were completely redone. The scotchbright part makes me nervous but I have spent a week trying to get the block shiny like I know it should be for new gaskets. I am scrotchbrighting by hand. Really it should not be this difficult, but it has been a huge pain in my A$$. I blocked off my oil passages with shop rag pieces. I vacuum too as I go.

You should not use scotch brite or any other abrasive or power tool on aluminium heads. A razor blade is all you need or should use. Get the big stuff with the blade as close to horizontal to the surface as possible. THEN, place the blade between your fingers perpendicular to the surface. This will get the small stuff before you can say Rumpelstiltsken.

[speedy25]

Time for re-comments.

Yes, ARP lube makes the torque a bit different, but is that a problem? NO! Whether the torque was 69 or 72 it would still be torque. Having the torque EVEN on all fasteners is the important part. I have more consistent torque using ARP lube over engine oil.

Motorcycle heads usually CANT be assembled with the cams installed. I see no reason why cams have to be removed for head installation on our cars. You cant mix them up if they stay in the head.

Scotchbrite is not hard enough to remove metal. Well, it can if attached to a power tool!

They use taps to create the hole, why shouldnt you use it to clean it out? There is usually a LOT of debris in those holes and a chaser would probably damage threads when it binds up with crud in a blind hole.

I'll also use a shop vac to suck out any crud I suspect may have gone down a hole. Stuff the oil hole with a piece of rag or paper towel while you do gasket removal to be sure NOTHING ends up in that hole. Any debris that gets pumped through WILL clog a head oil passage.

That should be enough. I have never had to replace any head gaskets I have installed so I must be doing something right.

Work smart. Do a good job!

-SP