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#11 (permalink) |
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SOHC you in the FACE
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hehe, yup. I used a crank from a chrysler for about 50 bucks at the yard and then my friend mailed me a rod from one of his spare motors.
Then Had my shop balance that crank for much more then I paid for it :P ![]()
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Brent
1992 Duster -13.0@104 - 8psi boost and slipping clutch -13.9@107.4 - 5psi - 6g72 3.13L "built" SOHC, Precision T67 P-trim, Tial 38mm open dump, 3" downpipe, 20x12x3" evo style intercooler, 7:1 compression, balanced, shot peened rods, heavily ported heads (+40% on flowbench), Ferrea Competition Plus +2 +1 stainless valves, Nielson Vintage 278 duration custom turbo cams, RPW Cam gears, Custom Ram Style short runner intake manifold, Walbro 255hp, 6*47# injectors, +0.096" Forged Venolias, Total Seal chrome gapless top rings, Fidandza Flywheel, Clutchnet 3 puck solid hub, OBX Helical LSD, Zeitronix wideband/EGT/Boost sensors, 100watt DevilsOwn Meth Kit.1994 Spirit - 13.987@101.89 - 5psi- 6g72 SOHC, K27 Turbo ![]() |
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#12 (permalink) |
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3S Motorsports
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as stated you "could" get away with just replacing the bearing and some hand polishing on the crank, provided it was not an oiling issue, and provided your connecting rod doesn't look like that picture.
If you are going to pull the engine for rebuild... 100% pull the engine and tranny while still connected. Don't drop the tranny to pull the engine. Thats just silly -Steve
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3S Motorsports Is Open For Business
(631) 676-2448 Running the First Pampena 3.5L Stroker http://www.3smotors.com -Steve ![]() |
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#13 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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Thanks, Guys ... I just surprised the son with it (back from school) and will get going on the rebuild - he was far more interested in rebuilding this one than the old truck we started him out on when he was 14!
I've got a Mitchel On-Demand CD-ROM with lots of info, but it doesn't do the step by step disconnect and pull instructions ... anyone seen anything like that? Photos on step by step pull? Thanks, again - the members here have saved me untold headaches, already! |
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#14 (permalink) |
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3S Motorsports
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http://www.vr4stealth.com/engine-pull.html
there you go also check out stealth316.com, there is a lot of useful info there |
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#15 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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WidowMaker ... thanks, I used the excellent instructions and pics at the link.
Quick status - had block dipped, heads shaved, valves and seats looked OK so am gonna clean 'em up with new seals and live with it (first head valve reinstall finished), rebuilt crank reinstalled (10 over) with spec clearances, oil pump clearances look good, will start remainder of assembly as time permits. I know some of this is gonna make some cringe, but I continue to think of this as a bit of an experiment ... I recognize this will not be a long term engine, but didn't want to put the money into it to make it one. I have the factory CD data ... does anyone have link to more step by step (chronology especially) with photos of reassemby? Thanks! |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Cant get there from here!
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I dont think a step by step documentation for anything has ever been done. Any of the books I used that think they are saying it, left out important bits!
Just do the work the way you think it should be done. Work carefully and use your brain so you dont have to take off too many parts to put the one you forgot on. ![]() Dont forget BOTH crank shims like I did! -SP
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