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#61 (permalink) | ||||
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King Detail
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Pictures of how I finally broke the bolt loose tonight. I didn't know my Dad had this HUGE crescent wrench to use for leverage and I borrowed a more heavy duty socket wrench from a friend that helped too.
![]() LOOK AT THE METAL CLIP AROUND THE RUBBER THAT IS AROUND THE PISTON IN THIS PICTURE. DO I REMOVE THAT? OR LEAVE IT? JUST NOT SURE. ![]()
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Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:19 AM. |
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#62 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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You need to purchase a breaker bar. You are damn lucky you didn' break your ratchet.
A breaker bar looks similar to a ratchet but does not have a ratcheting mechanism. I can post a pic of mine if you need to. As for your question, let me do some research over the weekend. Also The box end wrench trick does work but it hurts if you slip. With a breaker bar you can just slide a pipe over the handle. This gives you instant and safe leverage. Best regards, FASTERGT |
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#63 (permalink) |
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Back in the US and antsy
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I agree with FasterGT, used a big breaker bar and pipe to unfreeze my axle nuts when changing my tranny. Actually went through 3 breaker bars, kept snapping at the point right behind where you insert the socket. With that in mind, i'd suggest spending the money and going to sears to get one, Lifetime Warrantee is nice when you go back 3 times one weekend to get new breaker bars hehe.
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The difference is is that the red one's still flying down the road, the green one's stuck in a museum...
![]() BTW, thats a RAH-66 Comanche. Well, one of the TWO existing comanches before they bagged the project. On the Shelf: Widebody F&R Fenders, Novara front bumper, paint job, single turbo conversion, and waiting on SMOKINVR4 for my polished stuff that i was supposed to have years ago Go: Borla Exhaust, Downpipe & TP, Wires, Intake, NOS 75 wet, fuel pump, 360cc Injectors, SAFCII, ACT Clutch, Fidanza F/W, Quaife LSD, 8% taller 5th Gear. Stop: Bradi/ Brembro D/S Rotors, Turn: KYB GR2's, Intrax, Drunken Bear Control Arms, Addco Sways, front and rear strut bars, Rice: Red CF Hood, Ohio Short Shifter, Gunmetal Excel 17" wheels, Euro Gauges, Momo Pedals, NAAAWWWZZZZ Button, Red Powdercoated Plenum & Valve Cover, Topline Engineering Ground Wires, VLS hinges & Corbeau Microsuede CR-1 seats, Listen: 2 Kicker Comp's pushed by Kicker in a 2seater box, MB Quart mids & highs pushed by JL, Sony PS2 & 7" LCD in-Dash best time: 14.75@99 blegh |
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#64 (permalink) | |
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King Detail
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Quote:
Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:19 AM. |
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#65 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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I've edited the pic with PINK ARROWS pointing at the clip so you can see better. Look at the metal clip inside the piston around or embedded in the rubber boot. Do I remove that? I've never seen it before and I'm wondering if that is there to hold the boot in place along the piston as it moves up and down inside the caliper housing. Sounds kinda dirty doesn't it? lol - It would make sense as an upgraded design to have a clip holding onto the piston seeing as the sides of my old pistons were really funky which is one reason why I'm pretty sure the brakes were sticking.
![]() Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:19 AM. |
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#66 (permalink) |
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www.TN3S.com
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wish i was there to look at it and help ya.... why dont you put it on the system and have someone slowly pump it to see if it does anything... looks like it is there to hold the rubber boot on... BTW you can go to harbor frieght this week and get a 20inch breaker bar for 5bucks or so... better yet is go to sears and buy a good 1/2 in ratchet then go to lowes and get a 36" piece of black or galvinized(sp) pipe in the plumbing area. if i knew that is what the problem was i would have mentiond that earlier... just IM me and i can get back faster :P
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#67 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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Well, seeing as I have 3 notes to get a breaker bar I'm going to take ya'lls word for it that its a lifesaver and add one to my toolset at some point.
.... but just to be clear again..... I did get past the STUCK bolt. lolI have emailed the person I ordered the caliper from and asked about the clip on the piston rubber boot. I'll wait tomorrow for the reply or for a reply on here while I do other things to the car. Wish you were here too dude. I'll get'r done though one way or another.Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:20 AM. |
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#68 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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Ok. I've learned something today.
This is my first experience having dealt with what is known as many different names:
*SOOOO SERIOUS: IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SNAP RING TOOL AND YOU NEED TO REMOVE AND REINSTALL A SNAP RING YOU BETTER DAMN WELL GET YOURSELF A SNAP RING TOOL. THE MAJOR KNOWN AUTO STORES SELL THEM FAIRLY CHEAP. HAVING THIS TOOL WILL SAVE YOU HOURS OF FRUSTRATION, BECAUSE I CAN TELL YOU FIRST HAND THESE LITTLE BITCHES ARE NOT COMING OFF WITH NO NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS OR ANYTHING ELSE AND IF THEY DO THEY COME OFF WITHOUT THE SNAP RING TOOL YOU SURELY WILL DAMAGE STUFF IN THE PROCESS... AND THEN YOU ARE LEFT WITH HOW TO GET IT BACK ON WITHOUT SCREWING UP THE CLIP FURTHER. GET THE SNAP RING TOOL ! TRUST ME.* This makes me very happy. Now I can move on. I don't like starting other projects until the other ones I've started are done hence my personal dilemma. LOL Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:20 AM. |
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#69 (permalink) |
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www.TN3S.com
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hey i was out by harbor freight today.... check them out BR has one on florida i think and there is one in NO by zepher field. 25" breaker 1/2 drive for 9.99.... not bad.. they also have a set of snap ring pliers... both open and close...
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