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#31 (permalink) | |
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Hitokiri Battousai
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Quote:
You very well could have had your gun turned all the way down, which is why it wouldn't take the lugs off. All you need is around 100-125ft/lbs, and I can't think of many impacts that couldn't supply at least that amount of torque (psi != torque).
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#32 (permalink) | ||||
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King Detail
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JeremyC - thanks for that last bit of info. I didn't know that PSI wasn't equal to torque. I guess I should've figured that out myself with how intuitive I usually am. So I looked this up just now and found the formula:
Torque, Moment foot-pound torque, newton-meter * 1 ft lb = 1.356 Nm So using those calculations I would think using setting #3 on the impact wrench would result in about 91lbs of torque. The manual says we need 87 - 101lbs torque for the lugs, so I'll try setting #3 and if there are stubborn ones then #4 would probably work, but 122 lbs (setting #4) is a bit more than I'd care to use for fear of stripping my rusty studs. THE MASTER CYLINDER IS OFF. REBUILDING IT NOW WITH A REBUILD KIT. SUGGEST CORRECTION TO THE SERVICE MANUAL FOR REMOVING THE MASTER CYLINDER. The manual has you removing the wire clip for the brake level sensor before you remove the cylinder. I do not recommend this as the clip is almost impossible to remove in that setup. Remove the cylinder mounting bolts (step 4 in the manual) first before unclipping the sensor (step 3 in the manual I believe). The sensor clip is a 3 part clip it seems and the part that goes to the ECU has two plastic clip parts together which removes from the 1 plastic clip part closest to the cylinder. This is much easier to pry apart when you have access to all sides of the clip once the clyinder is off and you have a little more room. You'll have to use a flat head screwdriver on the cylinder side of the clip to lift the locking piece of plastic over the half-arrow-triangle shaped piece of plastic to pull it out of the locking piece. Then it just comes out beautifully whereas before I almost chopped the wires because it was infuriating me. ![]()
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Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:05 AM. |
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#33 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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Pictures to be posted at some point.
Notes (Removal of Master Cylinder and Inspection):
The bumps along the way: You'd really benefit greatly to have some retaining clip removal/installation tools on hand. To me this is just a hook nose needle nose pliers, but without them it is extremely hard to get the retaining ring in and out of the MC as well as the A/C clutch which I'm working on now. I'm not sure that I'll be able to accomplish taking the A/C clutch off without removing the compressor entirely, but I'm sure going to try. I've practiced on the extra one I have already so I know what to expect under the hood. I will also note that the manual does not show it, but its there - when you get down to the magnetic coil of the A/C clutch assembly there is a 2nd retaining clip holding the coil in place. This 2nd clip is not shown on the service manual for 1994 models and up. Status: MASTER CYLINDER REBUILT AND REINSTALLED. ONTO the A/C Clutch, then vacuum leak down test, & last but not least for another 2 weeks since I'm leaving town - the rebuild of all the calipers. Steering issue: I also noticed that the accordian looking boot on the passenger side of the steering rack is cracked clean in half and there is fluid leak. Is this power steering fluid? or grease? or oil lube? Luckily for me I have a replacement used steering rack supposedly with low mileage, but I hadn't planned on replacing the rack this go round. Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:06 AM. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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Ok - What does it mean that might've happened if the PULLEY will not come off the A/C compressor ? I have a vice grip on there with a cloth underneath gripping the pulley and I pull with the vice grip and absolutely NOTHING happens. I have removed all 6 small bolts around the edges of the pulley. Anyone?
Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:06 AM. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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www.TN3S.com
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there is a C-ring on it that you need to take off then it should just come off with a set of jaw pullers. go to harbor freight they have a 4piece set for 15 bucks or so.... lifetime warrenty too... trust me you will be taking them back once in a while.
hit me up on Yahoo latter and i can help ya out with it. i still have a compressor setting in my computer room. i will be off at 2am ![]()
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#36 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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Well the car beat me. I spent 3 hours on a frozen caliper bolt. I was going to rebuild all the calipers, but if the other 3 are anything like this 1st one (driver front) has been then I want absolutely nothing to do with rebuilding calipers. I've tried crescent wrench (both sides), socket, impact gun, air ratchet, and even used a hydraulic lift to turn the wrench and socket and all I got in the end was a rounded bolt head. This is the bolt that holds the caliper together, not the one (thankfully) that bolts it to the car.
Anyone have a suggestion for a caliper upgrade for an NA? I don't want to go crazy with it, but just something 1 step up from stock would be fine. I already have all the hardware and pads. I just need new calipers for front. I suppose I'm going to still try and rebuild the rear ones. A/C Pulley wouldn't come off. I'm leaving that for a friend to do since he offered to help me recharge my system and put in another compressor for me. Sigh - this means I wait two weeks now till I get to resume work as I'm going out of town. Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:06 AM. |
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#38 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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LOL - Its funny. It seems that there may only be 2 people besides me that really give a crud about this thread. LOL
I've decided on a pair of A1 Cardone calipers which I found at a great price on RockAuto.com. All because of a cemeted bolt which seems WELDED in place (possibly from excessive heat in a failing brake over time) I'm now spending money on buying two new calipers and NOW thinking about having them powder coated before I put them on. Hmm.... MO MONEY. user3977 (lol - dammit that name is so plain) - I'm in Champaign, IL visiting my sweety. Last edited by ProwlerGT : 11-29-2006 at 06:10 AM. |
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#39 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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This thread is a good read. I'm more of a forum troll than a successive poster however. Keep up the good Work, hope it goes well.
-Nate
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94 Green VR-4
Go Fast:AAM Spec stage 2 fuel system,AEM EMS with MAP conversion,Rps 6 puck clutch,AAM dual intake,Fidenza Flywheel,race ported 15g turbos,Evc Boost controller,AAM Y-pipe,660 CC Injectors, custom full 3.5” exhaust system,FJO Wideband O2 Sensor Look Cool 99 Frnt End conversion, Clarion 935vd Touch Screen TV/DVD, 18'' Volk GT-C w/ Toyo Proxes rubber |
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