ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up - Page 14 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

Alex3000GT · 12-06-2006, 01:34 PM

Get some 245/50/16 yokohama avid v4s

That sucks about the nail. I'm not sure on how repaired tires hold up under daily driving.

ProwlerGT · 12-06-2006, 02:29 PM

I have 16" rims. Apparently when I got the car (only 1 prev owner) it had 225/50R16's on it. From what I gather this is not a usual size for our cars, but I have never had any trouble with it unless I'm just not noticing that they die out faster than the 55 series width tire would. I had to have a debate with the people over at Discount Tire Direct (or TireRack; dunno which it was) in order for them to send me that size stating that its what I'd always used. I stick to the KUMHO Ecsta Supra or KUMHO brand anyway for price reasons and they just seem to grip the road great.

I've gotten several tires repaired at shops in the past and they always last well. I have never put any of them to a race test though, but since that won't happen that often I'm not too concerned with it. Although the tread depth on these tires is getting close to the limit so I won't have them much longer anyway, but I'd rather not deal with it right now. Too much time and money spent already.

ProwlerGT · 12-06-2006, 05:10 PM

Do I have the setup for removing the ball joint wrong? I am in the middle of it now:

Is this C clamp setup correct? I ask because I'm encountering dead stop force. Should I continue with it how it is setup?

Here's the whole setup for how I'm situated to get to the ball joint with jack stands at lowest level.

Here's what the ball joint looks like with the dust over removed which reveals the circlip. I found you can use a snap ring tool by itself without an attachment end and it just barely spreads the clip out enough to pull it directly upwards as you are using the tool.

Alex3000GT · 12-06-2006, 10:29 PM

From this angle, that appears right, just make sure there is nothing rubbing on anything, otherwise you're just compressing it and not *pushing* it out. It took me a 3' breaker bar's worth of force to pop that baby out. You'll feel it *pop*.

circlip out - check
bottom of clamp isn't contacting bottom of ball joint - check
top is pushing down on the ball joint - check

then you're good to go man

ProwlerGT · 12-06-2006, 10:39 PM

BTW - I ended up doing the removal just how I have it pictured pushing down on the shaft. It required near perfect alignment of the tools, but it came out and there wasn't even any POP. It just came loose.

INSTALLATION SUCCESS !!!!!! Below are some pictures of installation and post-installation stuff. A very important thing to note since I know many of you get the same ball joints and rent from AutoZone as well is that using the method I did in the pictures below for installation It left a few millimeters of space between the rim of the ball joint and the control arm mount hole underneath. To make sure I was't seeing a shadow or anything I stuck a Stanley needle picker in there. The BJ was flush on one side, but off on the other and this was because I'd reached my press limit with the tool. The top bolt of the ball joint ended up touching the base of the huge screw plunger thingy so this meant all I was doing was going no where. Still with about 5 - 7mm left to close in on I remembered ya'll suggesting using a big socket earlier, but in a different way than I was trying to do here. Shown in the photos below you'll see the socket is "big open end for bolts" on the downside. This allowed for the ball joint bolt to go upwards just a few hairs more in order for me to make the ball joint rim flush with the lower control arm underneath.

Comparison of Old vs New - Despite the dust cover being open and broken I really found both ball joints to have nearly the same break away resistance. I just used my hands though, so I dunno. It sure is tempting to just clean the damn thing up with some spray oil and put it back in with new covers and lube.

Ball joint installation - The winning combination of tools. Using the C-clamp going upwards listing the parts in between it we have the bottom platter with an end that fits well into the bottom of the c-clamp, ball joint base, control arm, medium sized dual open ended cup or pipe thingy, platter which fits the bj bolt pretty well, and then the savior 3/4" or 15mm socket which allows for the bolt to come up just a tad more to mount the bj flush with the arm bottom. Once you can't turn it anymore, give it one good half or full turn and you are done. Inspect below the arm to see that the ball joint lip is flush with the arm hole mount point. Suggest having an extra hydraulic jack to hold the hub/knuckle to the side (rear) of the arm and 2 qty small length 4x4's would be a HUGE help as well to rest the arm on eliminating you having to fight the play in the arm while doing this. Believe me, your back will thank you.

Another view.

scolex · 12-07-2006, 07:51 AM

good pictures and guide for this, for anyone who wants to venture this later on by the way, props to ya.

ProwlerGT · 12-07-2006, 10:17 AM

I can't remember if I already linked to this, but here is the whole thread about replacing the ball joints. It should be an excellent guide for those who've never done it before.

Ball Joint Replacement Guide
Remove knuckle/hub to remove fr ball joint?

Honestly, if you are working in a limited space area, car on jack stands, and you are (cough cough) slightly overweight this job could possibly lapse you over a couple days (mind you though this was my first time and I'm replacing the linkages as well). Just like riding a bike, once you do it once it always goes better and faster the next time.

ProwlerGT · 12-07-2006, 05:28 PM

I have removed the end links so the sway bar is completely disconnected from everything except its own mounts. Now, should I be able to MOVE the sway bar at all with my bare hands? Cause I can very easily turn the bar back and forth and I hear a tapping to metal sound when I do. So, should this thing be completely secure and unmovable in its place or is this condition normal?

If its not normal then is it as simple as the mounts being worn? Thanks.

scolex · 12-08-2006, 08:59 AM

I upgraded my front and rear sways about a year ago, and when you disconnect both ends, it should be able to rotate from the two bushings holding it to the frame, and the tapping sound might be from the center section that has a bend in it contacting the frame... examine along the length of it. That circular motion should all be normal, just check that the bushings holding it in place dont have any lateral free play.

ProwlerGT · 12-08-2006, 10:28 AM

Thanks Scolex.

Hey, what do ya'll think this means? I don't know where the hell this came from, but I had a dream last night that my car was done and in the driveway. For whatever reason I was pulling up to the house in another car to find (I have no clue why) Bette Midler was standing on the front lawn with a freshly shaved WHOLE tree trunk and it was standing on its end VERY close to my car !!!!! Right as soon as I was parking and got out she TRIGGERED IT TO FALL RIGHT ON TOP IN THE DEAD CENTER OF THE CAR !?!?!?! I WAS LIVID WITH BETTE MIDLER !!!! LOLLLLL ASKING HER WHY ON EARTH SHE'D DO THAT TO ME?!??! And she had the nerve to say, "Why would you think I'd do that to you? You know me better than that !" - and the funniest shit here is that I've never met her in my life nor would I have a single reason in the world to ever think about her. lol

So what do ya'll think that dream means? or was it just a dream?

12-06-2006, 01:34 PM	#131 (permalink)
Alex3000GT Engineering Student Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Wheatfield, Indiana Drives: 92 3000gt base Trader Rating: (12)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up Get some 245/50/16 yokohama avid v4s That sucks about the nail. I'm not sure on how repaired tires hold up under daily driving. __________________ EVENT - Engine - TRANS - 1/4 ET - 1/4 MPH NG06 - DOHC NA - ATX --- 16.6 --- 85 NG07 - DOHC NA - MTX --- 15.7 --- 89 7.78 sec 0-60 3,044 lbs w/out driver

12-06-2006, 05:10 PM	#133 (permalink)
ProwlerGT King Detail Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New Orleans area Drives: 95 3000GT Base DOHC Trader Rating: (9)	Need help with Ball Joint Removal? Will this work? HELP ! Do I have the setup for removing the ball joint wrong? I am in the middle of it now: Is this C clamp setup correct? I ask because I'm encountering dead stop force. Should I continue with it how it is setup? Here's the whole setup for how I'm situated to get to the ball joint with jack stands at lowest level. Here's what the ball joint looks like with the dust over removed which reveals the circlip. I found you can use a snap ring tool by itself without an attachment end and it just barely spreads the clip out enough to pull it directly upwards as you are using the tool.

12-06-2006, 10:29 PM	#134 (permalink)
Alex3000GT Engineering Student Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Wheatfield, Indiana Drives: 92 3000gt base Trader Rating: (12)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up From this angle, that appears right, just make sure there is nothing rubbing on anything, otherwise you're just compressing it and not pushing it out. It took me a 3' breaker bar's worth of force to pop that baby out. You'll feel it pop. circlip out - check bottom of clamp isn't contacting bottom of ball joint - check top is pushing down on the ball joint - check then you're good to go man

12-06-2006, 10:39 PM	#135 (permalink)
ProwlerGT King Detail Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New Orleans area Drives: 95 3000GT Base DOHC Trader Rating: (9)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up BTW - I ended up doing the removal just how I have it pictured pushing down on the shaft. It required near perfect alignment of the tools, but it came out and there wasn't even any POP. It just came loose. INSTALLATION SUCCESS !!!!!! Below are some pictures of installation and post-installation stuff. A very important thing to note since I know many of you get the same ball joints and rent from AutoZone as well is that using the method I did in the pictures below for installation It left a few millimeters of space between the rim of the ball joint and the control arm mount hole underneath. To make sure I was't seeing a shadow or anything I stuck a Stanley needle picker in there. The BJ was flush on one side, but off on the other and this was because I'd reached my press limit with the tool. The top bolt of the ball joint ended up touching the base of the huge screw plunger thingy so this meant all I was doing was going no where. Still with about 5 - 7mm left to close in on I remembered ya'll suggesting using a big socket earlier, but in a different way than I was trying to do here. Shown in the photos below you'll see the socket is "big open end for bolts" on the downside. This allowed for the ball joint bolt to go upwards just a few hairs more in order for me to make the ball joint rim flush with the lower control arm underneath. Comparison of Old vs New - Despite the dust cover being open and broken I really found both ball joints to have nearly the same break away resistance. I just used my hands though, so I dunno. It sure is tempting to just clean the damn thing up with some spray oil and put it back in with new covers and lube. Ball joint installation - The winning combination of tools. Using the C-clamp going upwards listing the parts in between it we have the bottom platter with an end that fits well into the bottom of the c-clamp, ball joint base, control arm, medium sized dual open ended cup or pipe thingy, platter which fits the bj bolt pretty well, and then the savior 3/4" or 15mm socket which allows for the bolt to come up just a tad more to mount the bj flush with the arm bottom. Once you can't turn it anymore, give it one good half or full turn and you are done. Inspect below the arm to see that the ball joint lip is flush with the arm hole mount point. Suggest having an extra hydraulic jack to hold the hub/knuckle to the side (rear) of the arm and 2 qty small length 4x4's would be a HUGE help as well to rest the arm on eliminating you having to fight the play in the arm while doing this. Believe me, your back will thank you. Another view.

12-07-2006, 07:51 AM	#136 (permalink)
scolex Back in the US and antsy Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Naples FL@ Drum NY Drives: Car Ramrod Trader Rating: (16)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up good pictures and guide for this, for anyone who wants to venture this later on by the way, props to ya. __________________ The difference is is that the red one's still flying down the road, the green one's stuck in a museum... BTW, thats a RAH-66 Comanche. Well, one of the TWO existing comanches before they bagged the project. On the Shelf: Widebody F&R Fenders, Novara front bumper, paint job, single turbo conversion, and waiting on SMOKINVR4 for my polished stuff that i was supposed to have years ago Go: Borla Exhaust, Downpipe & TP, Wires, Intake, NOS 75 wet, fuel pump, 360cc Injectors, SAFCII, ACT Clutch, Fidanza F/W, Quaife LSD, 8% taller 5th Gear. Stop: Bradi/ Brembro D/S Rotors, Turn: KYB GR2's, Intrax, Drunken Bear Control Arms, Addco Sways, front and rear strut bars, Rice: Red CF Hood, Ohio Short Shifter, Gunmetal Excel 17" wheels, Euro Gauges, Momo Pedals, NAAAWWWZZZZ Button, Red Powdercoated Plenum & Valve Cover, Topline Engineering Ground Wires, VLS hinges & Corbeau Microsuede CR-1 seats, Listen: 2 Kicker Comp's pushed by Kicker in a 2seater box, MB Quart mids & highs pushed by JL, Sony PS2 & 7" LCD in-Dash best time: 14.75@99 blegh

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12-07-2006, 10:17 AM	#137 (permalink)
ProwlerGT King Detail Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New Orleans area Drives: 95 3000GT Base DOHC Trader Rating: (9)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up I can't remember if I already linked to this, but here is the whole thread about replacing the ball joints. It should be an excellent guide for those who've never done it before. Ball Joint Replacement Guide Remove knuckle/hub to remove fr ball joint? Honestly, if you are working in a limited space area, car on jack stands, and you are (cough cough) slightly overweight this job could possibly lapse you over a couple days (mind you though this was my first time and I'm replacing the linkages as well). Just like riding a bike, once you do it once it always goes better and faster the next time. Last edited by ProwlerGT : 12-07-2006 at 10:23 AM.

12-07-2006, 05:28 PM	#138 (permalink)
ProwlerGT King Detail Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New Orleans area Drives: 95 3000GT Base DOHC Trader Rating: (9)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up I have removed the end links so the sway bar is completely disconnected from everything except its own mounts. Now, should I be able to MOVE the sway bar at all with my bare hands? Cause I can very easily turn the bar back and forth and I hear a tapping to metal sound when I do. So, should this thing be completely secure and unmovable in its place or is this condition normal? If its not normal then is it as simple as the mounts being worn? Thanks.

12-08-2006, 08:59 AM	#139 (permalink)
scolex Back in the US and antsy Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Naples FL@ Drum NY Drives: Car Ramrod Trader Rating: (16)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up I upgraded my front and rear sways about a year ago, and when you disconnect both ends, it should be able to rotate from the two bushings holding it to the frame, and the tapping sound might be from the center section that has a bend in it contacting the frame... examine along the length of it. That circular motion should all be normal, just check that the bushings holding it in place dont have any lateral free play.

12-08-2006, 10:28 AM	#140 (permalink)
ProwlerGT King Detail Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: New Orleans area Drives: 95 3000GT Base DOHC Trader Rating: (9)	Re: ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up Thanks Scolex. Hey, what do ya'll think this means? I don't know where the hell this came from, but I had a dream last night that my car was done and in the driveway. For whatever reason I was pulling up to the house in another car to find (I have no clue why) Bette Midler was standing on the front lawn with a freshly shaved WHOLE tree trunk and it was standing on its end VERY close to my car !!!!! Right as soon as I was parking and got out she TRIGGERED IT TO FALL RIGHT ON TOP IN THE DEAD CENTER OF THE CAR !?!?!?! I WAS LIVID WITH BETTE MIDLER !!!! LOLLLLL ASKING HER WHY ON EARTH SHE'D DO THAT TO ME?!??! And she had the nerve to say, "Why would you think I'd do that to you? You know me better than that !" - and the funniest shit here is that I've never met her in my life nor would I have a single reason in the world to ever think about her. lol So what do ya'll think that dream means? or was it just a dream?