ProwlerGT's 3000GT Revival Thread - Start Up

[ProwlerGT]

OHhhhh mYYYYYYYYY GAWD !!!!!!!!!!!! Who wants to know what a f#*(ing dumb a$$ I am? Anybody? I know someone wants to know. OK, so here goes: I FORGOT THAT I HAD TO RETURN MY OLD FRONT CALIPERS TO ROCKAUTO.COM FOR MY CORE. I guess I was so amazed at their great prices that I completely didn't even see the core column. I probably did it while I was tired.

Anyway the big blunder here is that the new A1 Cardone calipers came with differently sized bleeder valves than my OEM stuff for my NA and I'd bought the speed bleeders for my OE bleeder valves. So in the spirit of wanting to use the speed bleeders I opted NOT to use the new calipers and rebuild, recondition, and restore mine. I have the seal kit and all that, but like I said above its a huge f'in waste of time. I have spent a day and a half and I'm not done to my own satisfactory wishes with reconditioning the old ones!! WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY IS THAT YOU SAY? Well because as usual I don't know my own limits or what they should be. I tried to do what MACHINES and MACHINISTS do with my own bare hands. It was a valiant effort, but I'll be damned if I'm going to do the same thing to the rear calipers especially when I can order new and turn in a core and ALSO already have the new ones ready to be painted on delivery. Sure I've learned here, but its not really worth much because I'll never do this again.

So I'm going to stall myself yet again and order new rear calipers. After seeing the fronts I don't even want to bother inspecting and taking apart the rears.

[ProwlerGT]

I want to shoot, break, or destroy something. I think I need to go to a junk yard with a sledge hammer and just start breaking shit. AAAAARRRRRRRggggggh. This may be the best post in this thread yet.

[ProwlerGT]

So, I couldn't help myself today after much frustration and took a leap into Phase 4 (yes I'm still on Phase 1) and did a lil "pretty work". Pics below. I bought some of that duplicolor wheel spray paint stuff and it turned out it looks very close to my original factory rims. Not sure how its going to turn out dried, but can't be any worse than my scuffed up grainy faded stock rims were beforehand. The most exciting thing was/is the brake parts. Check'em out.

[ProwlerGT]

[ProwlerGT]

The day that stuff was painted was my last day of low humidity for a while. I'm delayed now at least a week with the finishing coat which is a problem cause of space in my garage where I have an A/C running to keep the air humidity free. Today I will start on the front suspension and cleaning the ends of dirt corroded parts. Lacking adequate bushings and patience I am going to attempt a screwball idea I have. After all is greased, rubber put back on, done and reassembled I'm going to spray a thick coat of rubberized undercoating on any bushing that shows signs of damage/cracking hoping that the time it takes it to dry will strengthen it enough to last a while like that. Since the rubber deforms over time maybe since the rubberized undercoating will dry in the deformed shape this will actually prolong cracking or further damage. Just a theory; not sure, but at this point I just can't wait another 2 weeks for order to arrive from Mitsu every time I realize I should replace something else.

[ProwlerGT]

Below is the shop manual's instructions for PROPERLY REPLACING the power steering fluid.

Two Q's:
1. What is the high-tension cable? What are they referring to?
2. What does "then while operating the starting motor intermittently" mean? Do they mean to turn the car on and off or do they mean to flip it back and forth in and out of ACC mode just before actually starting the car?

I ask because I'm not exactly in the ideal situation to start the car. The brakes are off the car and its on jack stands. Is it ok to start the car like that? or will it freak out? I'd think it would be ok, but still wanna know. Also, its humid today and I've got car parts drying in the garage with me so I don't want to open the garage.

From the manual:
FLUID REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the front wheels on a jack, and then support them with rigid racks.
2. Disconnect the return hose connection.
3. Connect a vinyl hose to the return hose, and drain the oil into a container.
4. Disconnect the high-tension cable, and then while operating the starting motor intermittently, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right several times to drain all of the fluid.
*Caution
Be careful not to position the high-tension cable near
the carburetor or the delivery pipe.
5. Connect the return hoses securely, and then secure it with the clip.
6. Fill the oil reservoir with the specified fluid up to the lower position of the filter, and then bleed the air.
Specified fluid:
Automatic transmission fluid “DEXRON II” (My note: Dexron III since II is no longer available)

This is the only picture it shows and I've done a text search in the manual for "high-tension" cable and I find 3 other hits but no pictures.

[Alex3000GT]

I'm on page 837 of 1146 of my CD manual under 1991 3000GT and I see the exact paragraph you're looking at.


I -think- they mean throttle cable? Because they're saying to start the car and turn the steering wheel. I dunno?

[ProwlerGT]

Thanks Alex, but I posted another thread because this one isn't always getting answers right away. Here is the answer to the madness: http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?p=4059061

It is spark plug wires which doesn't make sense to me why'd you'd use the word "tension" when referring to a spark plug wire since it carries electricity and isn't being "pulled or tightened up". However since removing the spark plug wires is quite a pain on the rear bank bluemax_1 gave me some other advice to pull the Crankshaft Position Sensor (also referred to as the Crankshaft Angle Sensor: CAS by some) Its CPS in the manual though and thats usually what I stick with which obviously causes me headaches on terminology from time to time.

[ProwlerGT]

Yesterday I rented me a universal ball joint removal and press tool. YIPPEE ! Damn thing looks like a huge C clamp and I mean HUGE. Guess I'll figure it out once I'm down there today.

[Alex3000GT]

When I did my ball joints in August I also got one of those universal ball joint press tools. I rented mine from autozone free of charge.

It took me about 30 minutes to figure out what configuration of the little cut up pipes to use to press out the old ball joint.

The hardest part was getting the old circlip off and the new one in. They make a tool for them, looks like a pair of needle nose plyers which expand the new one allowing you to slip it on.

Good luck.