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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I've been having hesitation or sputting when slowly accelerating mostly between 2000-3000 rpm. If I punch the gas it goes away, but if I hold the gas at a steady 1/4 down or whatever, it just sputters and doesnt really go anywhere.
I replaced the fuel filter, and spark plugs with Bosch platniums that are pregapped. I heard afterwards those arn't the best of plugs to use. but it didnt change anything when i changed the plugs. Wires are farly new. MAF and IAC are new ecus not burnt. sprayed throttle body cleaner in the intake. TPS is possioned at .50 The only thing I can think of is when I test out the variable inductiuon control you can see the little screw at the right side of the plenum turn all the way one way and then the motor starts clicking. it clicks for a few seconds then turns all the way the other way and clicks somemore. I wonder if the motor is getting jammed up cause when it starts clicking if u give the little screw a turn it turns another 1/4 turn or so and then the motor doesnt click it just spins the plates back the other way...and clicks again, unless u give it a manual turn. Do you think if my VIC is sticking or not opening or closing all the way this could cause the sputter? and If I take my plenum apart, is a million peices going to fall out. or is it pretty basic to getting backtogether? Anyways the only things I've been able to come upwith are either my VIC is sticking which i dunno would cause that or not. or my brand new plugs are causing the exact same problem as the old ones were. which were bosch 2x. but still this seems very unlikely to me... |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Welcome to the Jungle
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What year? If it's a first gen I'd bet it's your ECU in need of a rebuild.
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2000 Toyota Celica - Burns oil like my truck burns gas
1988 Dodge Ram - Daily Driver 15 mpg ftw Stealthless for the first time in 7 years ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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91 Stealth R/T NA.
I got a new ECU a month ago or so because whatever controled the IAC motor was burnt and it wasent shifting points. The replacement I got has new capasitors and nothing else appears to be burnt on it. I had the same sputtering problem with the old ECU and this new one. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Resident rocket scientist
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Quote:
I would suggest taking those out and putting in some NGK coppers instead. How fouled were your original plugs? Perhaps the reason it's still running the same is because those Bosch plugs are performing just like your old fouled ones ![]() EDIT: also, those plugs are not properly pregapped. When I got mine they were off by about .008
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Topline Engineering - "Driven to Perfection"
![]() 1993 3000GT FWD ATX TT - daily<------------------->2009 Honda Fit - 40 mpg? Yes pls. Topline Engineering ground wire kit Ground wire GB is back!!! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Harrasser, I'm still with you on this one. Exact sysmptoms and have done the same things except replace my IAC. The sputtering/hesitation is getting worse and I'm running new copper plugs and new accell wires. Shit, I've replaced almost all the sensors I could think of EXCEPT the VICS. But from what I understand the VICS stuff doesn't kick in until WOT. Not sure. Getting friggin' annoying.
I'll sure be watching this post though.
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91 Pearl White Stealth R/T
-Removed Resonator Bottle, K&N Intake, Accel 8mm Wires, DNP Downpipe, Homemade Testpipe, Ground Control Coilovers, Short Throw Shifter, Motegi MR-7 Gunmetals with 235/40 - 18's |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Resident rocket scientist
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Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Took the intake plenum off today and took it all apart cleaned it up. stripped all the old paint off it and gave it another coat, just waiting for it to dry so i can put it back together and try it out.
I noticed when I was pulling off my VIC motor that it piviots on the 3 screws. Anyone know how to adjust it properly? Maybe it was outta wack... Guess i can go buy some new NGK COPPER plugs and try those. If it fixes the problem i'll be very amazed tho...I wonder if maybe one of my coils is bad and giving a weak spark, anyone heard of that? I guess i can put a spark tester on the coil and check how far of a gap it'll jump. but it doesnt miss at idle or WOT so it would probably show alright. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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yeah, I don't know much about the VICS but I never really messed with it since my problems/hesitation occurs at 2K - 3K and the VICS (thanks bigtyla) don't kick in till after that. As a matter of fact RIGHT past 3K RPM is when she pulls hard. Makes me believe we're not getting enough air. (hence the reason your car runs a little better after cleaning the plenum -- more/smoother air flow) I was leaning towards my IAC since it seems like it's the only sensor (other than my CAS) that I haven't replaced and which controls minor air intake, but I doubt that's my problem.
I did want to mention that Jeff Lucious checked out my datalog and believes that I have a short somewhere in the harness. I have no clue where to begin on that one. Anyone know of common harness shorts?? |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I am also having hesitation problems and an unsteady idle.
It comes and goes but it's has gotten real bad. First the car idles at a high 2k or 2.5k rpm, then starts to fluctuate from 2k to 2.5k at about 1 second interval. My mechanic is checking the car right now and thinks is the VIC Servo. Perhaps out on timing or positioning. I have the service manual but I don't see a lot of info on how to re-position the servo. It tells you to check for continuity and apply low 6V DC to make the control valve shaft turn. Other than that there is an adjustment on the opposite side clockwise to open counter to close. I will keep you posted. Thanks |
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