The other day I was driving and I heard a loud squeal sound. All of a sudden the check engine light comes on and the car shuts off. I opened the hood to inspect the belts and pulleys. The outside ones were fine. However, I noticed one of the timing belt pulleys busted throught the side cover on the engine. The bolt for it seems warped as it will not go back in. I opened the timing belt cover and the belt itself is fine as well as the other pulleys. The car will not start anymore. Could I be looking at a cheap fix or is this pretty bad? My 3000gt is a 94 base model.
Last edited by kevin.cook64; 01-30-2013 at 12:46 PM.
Reason: forgot some details
if your talking about the camshaft pulley coming off then that seems kinda strange. ive never herd of these cars having a problem with that unless it wasnt properly torqued.
what ever you do do not turn it over until you figure out what is going on but from the sound of things one of the timing components failed and you bent some valves.
The car likely won't start because the timing is off, fixing it is really dependent on what caused the belt slippage (crank pulley) and how difficult it is to fix that, and whether the timing jumped bad, or if it just went enough to cause it to stop running. If there was slack in the timing belt, it could have slipped enough to damage valves, and that would be a complicated and fairly expensive fix, pics would help those who know these things to get a better appraisal of what was needed. I just know that a timing belt failure can easily damage valves, like what happened when mine broke. I ended up replacing all the valves and had new pistons installed just to be safe.
__________________
91 Stealth TT Stillen Intake, Stillen DP, DN Y Pipe, HKS EVC IV, GReddy BOV, Burlwood Dash kit, New Katzkins, OEM Short Block, RPS Max Street Clutch, Denso 310lph fuel pump, 13G Turbos, Borla exhaust, 550 DR Injectors, HKS SAFC, 2 gauge pod CF A/F gauge, autometer boost gauge. Custom vented blisters, New Valves, rebuilt heads, timing belt, new bearings and pistons. 35k invested.
Other cars: 1969 charger R/T SE, 2010 Challenger R/T 5.7 auto
It is DOHC. Here are a couple of pics. Looks like the timing belt is ok and all the teeth are correctly in place. But in the center of the pics you see the pulley coming through the cover with the bolt sticking out. I am guessing it's warped.
It is DOHC. Here are a couple of pics. Looks like the timing belt is ok and all the teeth are correctly in place. But in the center of the pics you see the pulley coming through the cover with the bolt sticking out. I am guessing it's warped.
I suggest a leak down test to see if there is any valve damage. It is inexpensive and will give you a good idea on how to proceed.
But in the center of the pics you see the pulley coming through the cover with the bolt sticking out. I am guessing it's warped.
NOTHING ever gets "warped." You have a parts failure of some kind.
You need to fix what went bad first.
After your timing is back correctly, do a leakdown test to make sure there is no internal damage. THEN do the "60K" work to make sure all your timing components are good.
Put a post in the parts wanted section to find another plastic cover.
I guess what I am trying to figure out is whether or not it will be worth fixing. I don't have a lot of money to throw at the car, and as it is, I would have to get it towed to a shop just to figure out if the repair is in my price range. Is there anything I can do at home to see if anything internally has been damaged without repairing the pulley first?
The tensioner bolt broke or fell out... looking at the first pic, there is no belt tension around the front pulleys. I think you can safely assume it has bent valves at this point.
I bet if you turn the motor over by hand, it won't even turn the camshafts...
__________________
Because One broken Stealth just wasn't enough... I made twins..
I guess what I am trying to figure out is whether or not it will be worth fixing. I don't have a lot of money to throw at the car, and as it is, I would have to get it towed to a shop just to figure out if the repair is in my price range. Is there anything I can do at home to see if anything internally has been damaged without repairing the pulley first?
Many still disagree with me but I will say it again, these are toys for those with discretionary income, are mechanically inclined, and own two or more vehicles.
It will be expensive to fix properly. I estimate around $2000 to $2500 minimum if you have to pay someone else to do the work. This is to pull the heads, mill them, valve replacement and valve job, gaskets, oil pump, water pump, idler pulley, timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, fluids, etc.
You might find someone that will make you deal on used heads but they will still need to be milled and valve seals replaced.
You can buy a long block for $2500 but then it still needs to be installed.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Engine won't start
I made twins..
