Ok so I've installed a new rebuilt Throttle body along with a new IAC and coolant temp sensor. Removed Jester's MAF and put the stock one back in just to remove that variable. After resetting the MAF VE tables back to stock I attempted to crank the engine again and it still didn't start.
It cranked, fired and promptly died. I've attached a log of the startup. I have few hours today to play with the car while the wife and kids are out shopping so I'll see about playing around with it.
Originally Posted by SpdDemon
just some other ideas since we've checked off some of the major ones...
- Is the battery old? Do you have a tender hooked up to it or tried testing it? I've noticed with old batteries they just don't have the cranking amps to get the car started.
- Did you happen to make adjustments to the BISS screw at all and closed it? might need to open it up some.
yes sir, brand new battery that is kept on a battery tender. I'll try opening the BISS a bit. It's a rebuilt TB.
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Last edited by activeSeven; 03-26-2017 at 10:41 AM.
Measuring your water temp sensor should be very simple.
Unplug your ECU harness. From the harness side (what you just unplugged), set your multimeter to resistance (usually Ohm symbol). Measure between Pin 83 (Black-White wire) and Pin 92 (Black). Polarity doesn't really matter, it'll just read positive or negative but same value.
What you measure here should be the same thing you measure directly from your sensor. If it measures the same, you know that your harness is fine.
Don't worry about measuring a voltage, there isn't a need to.
Checking for spark and inspecting your spark plugs are two different things. You can check spark by pulling a wire and using a spare plug to make sure your ignition system is working properly. But you can't see if the plug is fouled, soaked, etc, without pulling the actual plug.
Not patronizing, just clarifying what he may have meant by checking your plugs
You're right, I misread. The first set of plugs did indeed become fouled. They have been replaced. I keep checking the front bank of plugs and replace them as needed while I am troubleshooting this issue.
ok so I started adjusting the biss screw, I kept backing it out more and more. While the car was cranking it just didn't get going. So I tightened the screw all the way in and backed it out about a full turn...and get this. She started and idled. She idled HIGH...like 2k rpm.
Ok I thought, we made progress here. I then let off the clutch and it died promptly. After lowering the screw a bit so it doesn't idle at 2k i cranked it again...and its not starting anymore. LOL. It's becoming comical at this point.
I'll continue to work the TB for a bit, just wanted to update the thread. I know there was an article on 3sgto about how to pup the car is SAS mode with evoscan but the site seems to be down atm. Does anyone recall this off the top of their head?
Thank you everyone for your help so far. I feel like we are getting close.
Last edited by activeSeven; 03-26-2017 at 11:15 AM.
Ok so, the car can start and idle now! I need to fine tune it now but very glad that I can at least get the engine to temperature so I can properly set the idle in sas mode..
So basically what I believe happened here was that I did the upgrades, but didn't know about the resistor bypass for high impedance injectors, that was the key here. While diagnosing an 'idle issue' I replaced the coolant temp sensor along with the IAC installed a rebuilt TB, new plugs and went back to the stock MAF. The car still didn't start, but it was because of a new TB which was fine after adjusting the biss screw.
Long story short, I was the architect of my own problems after the resistor bypass. I want to thank SpdDemon for his input, as promised, please pm me your paypal address.
That being said I still have a few little gremlins to work out. Coolant temp sensor still reads -59 is one issue I really need to work out. I'll need to read up a lot on tuning these cars with a Chrome Ecu but I'm looking forward to it.
Don't worry about the reward... You did all the work, I just gave some suggestions. Glad to hear you got it started again.
If you understand the concepts of tuning, chrome is relatively easy to learn and monochrome did a great job on his website with walkthroughs.
Basic: VE Smoothing table can be used like a piggy back and adjust it to hit your target AFRs.
Slightly more advanced and preferred method: Adjust the VE Smoothing table to the point your AFR gauge matches(close to) the Hi-Fuel map. Then make your tuning adjustments in the Fuel map.
Timing is a little trickier. 2 ways: A) advance 1 degree until knock. then pull it back. B) dyno log and advance until you don't see gains.
Note though it's not set fuel, set timing and done. it's more like set fuel, set timing, set fuel, set timing, set fuel and on and on on on on on... lol. Tuning is more of an art than a science and the goal is to get the most amount of fuel/air to ignite at the perfect time! Do a lot of logging and always make small incremental adjustments. The last think you want to do is immediately pull 10% of fuel and add 5 deg of timing and grenade your engine.
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