Well in the 10+ years I've been frequenting this forum I never thought I would ever make a "my car won't start thread" but recent developments have me in a bit of a quandary and I’d like to leverage the knowledge of this fine community for some assistance.
First, the backstory. My car is a ’94 vr4 with about 85k miles on it. It has been sitting in my garage for about um…..6 years. Why so long? Because life. I got married, bought a house, moved to another state, had children etc. It all left very little room for a project car. That being said, a few months ago I was faced with the decision to either sell the car, or resurrect it. Well I chose to resurrect…and upgrade. But first I needed to deal with the fact that she was sitting.
I changed all the fluids and checked/replaced rubber hoses that needed to be changed, change filters etc. Anything having to do with a car sitting for extended periods of time. She fired right up, and I drove her around to “shake off the dust” once or twice a week for a few weeks. But I didn’t do another 60k service yet, I knew that it needed it. I was just waiting for the parts to arrive so I limited the amount I drove it around. I want to be clear on this point, the car started and drove fine up to this point.
Like most people in this community, I ordered my parts from Ninja Performance, so as expected, I had some time before it arrived. I decided to spend that time…buying more parts. So I went ahead and purchased DR-750 turbos, Injector Dynamics 725cc injectors, oohnoo’s SMIC kit, Chrome ECU, Jester’s MAF, Mishimoto Radiator/Hoses and a bunch of other little things that don’t’ really pertain to this problem as they are cosmetic pieces. Like retro-spec side-splitters and front lip, engine replacement bolt kit etc.
So I begin working the car once everything arrived. One of my old friends from this forum ( darksurfr ) was actually kind enough to drive down an assist in the build. Unfortunately during this point he noticed a crack in my front exhaust manifold and I decided to stop and purchase a new one. When that arrived I continued the putting the car back together myself. As she stands now, these are the mechanical modifications done.
- DR-750 turbos
- ID725cc injectors
- Chrome ECU
- Oohnoo’s SMIC
- Jester MAF w/K&N air filter
- Hotwired Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
- AEM Honda Style FPR w/fuel rail loop
- Devils Own Methanol injection system w/progressive controller
- HKS SSQ BOV
- Greddy Profec EBC
- RPS Max Street Clutch
- RPS Segmented Flywheel
- Innovate LC-1 Wideband
- Pre-cats are gutted
- 3sx downpipe
- IPS 3”exhaust
- Autometer Boost gauge.
So 1-5 are the new modifications, the rest were already installed. The outgoing parts replaced by 1-5 were 15g turbos, rc550cc injectors and an EMU w/boomslang harness and a greddy FMIC. It’s also worth mentioning that this is when the 60k was performed, I also changed my spark plug wires and plugs. New plugs gapped to .026.
Also worth noting that while performing a pressure check of the system I noticed a slight hissing sound coming from the TPS sensor. I noticed no other sounds and have already received a rebuilt Throttle Body from April but have NOT installed it yet.
Now the Chrome ECU part was new to me, but I did my research and I can successfully flash my ecu with ECU Flash and Datalog with EvoScan. I opened the bin file it came with and edited the following:
- Changed injector size table to ‘722’ – can’t seem to put in 725 as it just changes the value to 722
- Based on the ‘Slope & Offset vs. Pressure’ chart from ID725 Injectors - Injector Dynamics I changed the ‘Injector Battery Voltage Latency Compensation’ table to read:
I used the settings for a base fuel pressure of 43.5, but I think I may need to use 40psi. I would know for sure if I could get the car to idle of course.
- 4.69 - 3.825
- 7.98 - 1.980
- 10.03 - 1.350
- 12.01 - 1.035
- 13.99 – 0.795
- 15.97 – 0.735
- 18.02 - .660
- For the Jester MAF I left the MAF size and MAF Adder tables unchanged at 288.4 and 64 respectively. But I did change the MAF Smoothing Table to the recommended values on the product page to:
- 25 – 100
- 50 – 100
- 75 – 100
- 100 – 100
- 125 – 100
- 150 – 100
- 175 – 100
- 200 – 100
- 225 – 100
- 250 – 100
- 275 – 100
- 300 – 100
- 400 – 100
- 500 – 100
- 750 – 100
- 1000 – 100
- 1500 – 100
- 2000 – 100
- 2500 – 100
- 3000 – 100
- 4000 – 100
- I then edited the Periphery2 table and disabled the following:
- bit.15 P0443 P0446 P0403 P1104 P1105 Solenoids Test
- bit.14 P0450 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Test
- bit.13 P0442 Evap Incorrect Purge Flow Test
- bit.11 P0135 P0141 P0155 P0161 O2 Heater Test
- bit.10 P1400 MAP Sensor Test
- bit.09 P0403 EGR Solenoid Test
- bit.03 P0136 P0156 Front Rear Secondary O2 Sensor
- bit.01 P0421 P0431 Warmup Pre-cats Efficency Low
- I also changed the Wideband / Map scaling to the values given from my manufacturer.
I’ve made no other changes to the .bin file other than what I have just detailed. I saved it as a different file and flashed my ecu. And the car wouldn’t start.
To be more specific, it cranks, then sounds like it fires for a second, then dies. Hmm, ok. So this is what I have done so far.
- Checked to make sure my crank sensor was plugged in.
- I verified that I have fuel. When cranking the engine my Fuel Pressure gauge reads 40psi at the rails.
- I then pulled each spark plug wire off of each ignition coil to verify that spark was getting to the plugs. They are.
- I then checked my Fuel Pressure relay as I was not able to recall if I ever did the bypass mod on it. The bypass was not done, so I did it. Still no change.
- I then pulled the front three plugs, double checked the gap, wiped off some of the dielectric grease thinking maybe I was too liberal with it. No change.
- I then unplugged the MAF and it started and idled in limp mode. It didn’t feel as though it was idling “rough” but OMFG rich.
Ok I said, I guess my Jester MAF is faulty. So I removed it, reinstalled the stock MAF and re-flashed the MAF Smoothing table back to stock then started the car again. The car started and ran! For like 5 seconds then it died. Sigh.
- I then went back to my laptop and opened the original bin file with absolutely no changes to it and altered only the injector size and flashed my ecu. Trying to see if maybe I made an error in ECUFlash, the car still didn’t start. Same symptoms.
- Rotated the crankshaft and checked timing marks, all spot on.
- Performed the Fuel Injector Resistor Bypass by cutting all the wires and capping them together.
Evoscan is not showing any codes. Guys, I’m rapidly running out of ideas at this point. Tonight I’m going to check to make sure the timing marks line up but I had a very experienced person do my 60k so I’m not banking on that. I also would like it if someone can confirm my injector settings? I made some assumptions there but confirmed it with another experienced forum member here.
I’ve been hesitant to install the rebuilt TB since this all happened as I didn’t want to add yet another variable to this mess. I considered checking the resistance on the IAC but a faulty IAC would give me a high idle wouldn’t it?
Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy post, I wanted to be as thorough as possible. I have a video I will post to youtube tonight and add to this thread. If anyone has any insight or can provide any ideas of other things to check it would be most welcome. I would really like to have matter settled before ECG.
Also, since I sincerely feel that people should be rewarded and compensated for their time/efforts. I’d like to offer a $100 ‘Thank You’ to whomever on this thread is first to correctly diagnose and solve this issue. Payable via Paypal upon the car actually starting.
Thanks again everyone!
TL : DR
Car won't start.
I have fuel pressure and I have spark, timing is spot on.
I suspect it's my tune in chrome. Need someone to double-check my injector settings.